E-code H4 headlight conversion with comparison pics Cheaper than Silverstars

AlabamaDan said:
Very nice. Definately something added to my list of things to improve.
Hahahahah, best Edit ever! I get the email response that AlabamaDan replied to the thread:

"Please dumb it down for me. Y'all have just replaced the OEM holders with these from Europe and I need to look for glass E coded housings?"

Click the link, edited!!

:D :D :P
 
hah, me too, Dan dumbed it down for himself. Dan in a nutshell your got it, there are Hella and CIBIE (and IPF and Delta etc.) name brand glass housings that provide these "E-code" benefits of much better lighting (while also being much nicer to other drivers) because they to get stampped with the E-code they had to pass much better minimum quality standards than DOT (which only have a wattage limit which is useless). These conversion housings use removable bulbs unlike our stock sealed beams. Which is also a plus. The Ebay E-code "AutoPal" housings are generic made in India and while probably not as nicely made as those name brands, they are super cheap $22.95 per SET (includes both sides and bulbs) using "best offer" compared to the Quadratec guys post about 80 dollars per set.

Still loving mine. My Wife even mentioned how they are a huge improvement. One of the best mods on my XJ, and that list includes a stroker, cowl hood, a lift done right with SYE and short shaft, white face gauges, leather seats, sound deadning and others.
 
comanche91 said:
Here's how I did mine w. costs. Got the Hella 200mm H4 e-code glass lamp shells from Susquehanna Motor Sports ($34/ea). Then picked up from eBay four IPF 80w/60w H4 bulbs ($10 w. shipping, but you can used any wattage H4 bulb you want) and wired in a universal APC 4-lamp wiring harness w. relays (much cheaper than the 2-lamp, just cut off the extra two H4 sockets, $9 w. shipping) which fit my MJ perfectly. Then put in a separate fuse block mounted near the PDC on the right fender well and fused each headlight w. 20A fuses. Literally a night and day difference, and a highly recommended upgrade. Don

i assume this is the same thing that you're talking about: http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=AMC-509102&view=1&N=700+150+400375+311187+

my only concern is, based on that picture, the wiring looks like it is 14 gauge at best, maybe even 16. then again, the relays look small too so maybe it's just the picture. any issues or input on this?
 
i assume this is the same thing that you're talking about: http://store.summitracing.com/partde...400375+311187+

my only concern is, based on that picture, the wiring looks like it is 14 gauge at best, maybe even 16. then again, the relays look small too so maybe it's just the picture. any issues or input on this?

That's the harness, but the same thing on Ebay (item #290084876081) is much cheaper. It's for the four H4 lamps, but just cut the two extra off and you'll have some spares sockets. The APC harness wiring looks like 14AWG to me, heavier than the original 16/18AWG harness. And you are only using the original wiring to trigger the relays so there's much less voltage drop. I've had mine on now about two years now with no problems. The H4 bulbs were significantly brighter too after I put the APC harness in, and it saves your headlight switch too.
 
Get the HL28200 wiring harness from Susquehanna Motorsports:

http://www.rallylights.com/hella/wiring_harnesses.asp

It's 12 or 14 gauge wiring (I forget)... call them if you have any questions. They can custom make a wiring harness for you too if you want.

With the wiring harness, IPF H4 bulbs, and the E-codes, I can see again! I've had these for a couple months now and I love 'em. With a good set of fogs, it's nearly an HID quality output on the street in front of you!
 
Mine arrived this am.

Anyone else have issues with the housing being loose inside the bucket with retaining ring fully tightened? Mine can move just a bit, i plan to wrap the outter edge where ring sits with electrical tape to tighten it up.
 
RickyN29 said:
Hahahahah, best Edit ever! I get the email response that AlabamaDan replied to the thread:D :D :P

Yeah, I posted my original msg after reading page 1 and didn't realize there were multiple pages. After reading the others I figured I'd better edit it or get flamed. Guess y'all are too smart for me. :wierd:
 
John B said:
Mine arrived this am.

Anyone else have issues with the housing being loose inside the bucket with retaining ring fully tightened? Mine can move just a bit, i plan to wrap the outter edge where ring sits with electrical tape to tighten it up.
Yeah, I think everyone has had that problem, I just put some rubber tabs at all four corners to hold everything snug.
 
RickyN29 said:
Yeah, I think everyone has had that problem, I just put some rubber tabs at all four corners to hold everything snug.

4 wraps around the edge with elec tape took care of it for me. Thanks..

Now to adjust them tonight and then gather the parts for a harness upgrade. But i can already see an improvement over the sealed beams with the included 55/60w bulbs.
 
Mine were a little lose, just left them that way. Not really lose enough to be rattling around but you could move them with your hand.

Wait till you get some higher wattage bulbs in them. I bought the Autopal ones on ebay but they had 55/100 bulbs in the box when I opened them. I didn't pay extra he must have just threw in the wrong ones. My gain I guess.

I can spot venison from 1/4 mile down the road now, their eyeballs even farther.
 
andyr354 said:
Mine were a little lose, just left them that way. Not really lose enough to be rattling around but you could move them with your hand.

Wait till you get some higher wattage bulbs in them. I bought the Autopal ones on ebay but they had 55/100 bulbs in the box when I opened them. I didn't pay extra he must have just threw in the wrong ones. My gain I guess.

I can spot venison from 1/4 mile down the road now, their eyeballs even farther.


How did you ID the bulbs as 55/100? Nothing on the box states wattage...is it marked on the bulb itself?
 
Just hope you don't get a busted one. I won and paid for my lights on Jan 29th. I got them on Feb 2nd. Good shipping, but one was busted. I emailed him about a busted light and he wanted a picture. I sent him a picture and a week later still no lights. I emailed him again and he said he never received a picture so I sent him three more emails with pictures all the same day. I wanted to make sure he received them. Now here it is the 23rd of Feb. and still no replacement light. This guy sucks! I wanted to order another set for my jeep (first set going on the wifes) but I think I am going to find someone else to order them from. That or just order a case of 36 from Autopal and sell off the rest myself.
 
andyr354 said:
Mine were a little lose,

Did you guys put the rubber splash boots on that snug up to the bulb socket?

Also check the aluminum bezel those four screw tabs get bent and if they are bent back enough they will be loose, if you bend them forward back to being square with the bezel they should do all the tightening for you. Mine are tight but I made sure those tabs were bent back a little to "restore" them to the shape they were stock... over the years they've been stressed and the bezel pushed outward by the weight of the sealed beams.
 
jwtrapper said:
I just ordered some of these the other day, and they came in today. My only thing is one was busted when it arrived so now I have to wait a few more days before I can put them in. I got them from here..Ebay

I also ordered a harness from here Ebay

Once you add up the price of the plugs, relays and wire it comes out to more than these do and you get a set of bulbs with them. I figured I would give them a try. I built my own harness for my YJ, but figured I would just order one for the XJ. Can't wait to try it out. I'll let you know how the harness is.
Ok. I'm sure this has been discussed, but when I clicked the link, it gave me an option to buy H4 or HID...what is the difference?

/flame on

Edit: Also, what is the difference between Ultra Blue 100/55W and Ultra Blue 60/55W?
 
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heyjpark1 said:
Ok. I'm sure this has been discussed, but when I clicked the link, it gave me an option to buy H4 or HID...what is the difference?

/flame on

H4 is the bulb type. HID is High Intensity Discharge lighting which requires ballasts and such. H4 is what we are using.

heyjpark1 said:
Edit: Also, what is the difference between Ultra Blue 100/55W and Ultra Blue 60/55W?

The difference is the high beam wattage. The first ones are 100w high, 55w low and the second is 60w high, 55w low (stock, and DOT legal spec) Ultra Blue is gay though. Just get white. Blue is fine for a ricer, but blue lights do not look right on a JEEP.
 
I think the ribs are there to help hold them on. If you push them up over the outside of the bulb they grip it and stay in place. They get a decent grip on the bulb for me anyway and seal up against the housing.

I did have some surface condensation inside mine the other day when it was wet and foggy, but I turned them on a few minutes and it was all gone then.
 
I put the boot on as well. You DEFINITELY want this if you wheel. I had lots of mud and gunk on them when I changed out the bulbs. I did have to cut the rubber slightly to help it fit better. The boot kept pushing the plug off of the bulb until I did this.

I never had any problems with the housings being loose anywhere. Mine is extremely tight, moreso than the factory ones were.

Also to note.. please don't get any rediculous "ultra blue" lights... If anything, you want hyper white.
 
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