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E-code H4 headlight conversion with comparison pics Cheaper than Silverstars

Speed_racer said:
So the harness, if purchased, just acts like an adapted between the factory connection, and the new connection?

So if I buy the harness , I just remove light housings, replace, add harness "adapter", adjust, and I'm done?!?! Or is it not that simple?!

Okay forget the harness for one second step away from the harness :) these headlights replace your stock lights with absolutely no modification, nothing, just unscrew the bezel (four screws) that holds your old sealed beams in unplug them, and plug in the new H4 housings with the bulbs installed, and screw the bezel back in which secures the new housings just like the old sealed beam. They fit and work 100% plug and play. If you're careful and have a skinny philips head you don't even have to take off the plastic trim piece (although I highly recomend it)

Now back to the harness: if you want you can upgrade the harness for even more upgrade in light output. But it's not necessary you'll see a HUGE improvement just from the new bulbs and housings. But an upgraded harness will give a nice boost because the stock wiring is undersized and doesn't carry optimal voltage due to electrical resistence. It is more involved than just pluging it in, there's wire splicing and cutting, but it's a NOT a hard mod by any definition... it's a 1 on our Intermediate difficulty scale heheh :)

You can also throw away the generic bulbs that come with the housings and replace them with more expensive "Ultra High Efficiency" H4 bulbs stick them in the housings. And you'll get some more "upgrade" the ones that come with the housings are still pretty good way better than what you have on their now.
 
E-Codes are tight like spandex. I've had some Hellas for about 5 years. They totally rock and this looks like a much more affordable way to upgrade.

I ran 80/100 bulbs for a while and the stock wiring landed up melting eventually. The plugs melted but didn't short. One of my lights stopped working and when I went to unplug it the plug crumbled. I look at the other side and it was sort of warped.

If you run higher wattage bulbs I would upgrade the wiring harness. You don't want to burn out the stock switch either. They're expensive.
 
Jeep914x4 said:
You don't want to burn out the stock switch either. They're expensive.

Tiz why its a good idea to make use of a friendly little item called a Relay.
.....Course it takes a little more work..but you can pull the amps for the lights straight from the battery, through an in-line fuse. And use the power, previously for the lights, to energize the relay and then the switch is getting less current through it, and you're extending its life, and also making for more current to the lights,..of course this MAY make you wanna go out and get a stronger battery and high output alt...and then..well you know it just keeps going on and on from there: )
 
got mine in tonight with 55/100 bulbs. I had the plugs and parts already to build my own harness. Went to walmart and bought a 12/3 extension cord to canibalize, worked nice. Only thing is I have to go get a couple of new relays with dual 87 terminals tomorrow (only had ones with 87 and an 87a).

WOW though the difference is alot. I can easily see 1/4 mile down the road on high beams and on low the pattern is nice and flat. I think I need to point them up just a hair. I have to drive around a couple of large road closed signs to get to my house, stupid bridge out, and they were so bright the light reflecting back was pretty harsh.

Everything in the box was marked "Made in India". Bulbs and housings both.

Andy
 
Well mine are on order with 90w/100w bulbs. I have all the wiring/relays, just waiting on the new H4 sockets to wire everything up.

I know how to take pictures, and I will post before and afters with my SLR.
 
How are the HELLA conversion to H4? I can grab a set at the local parts store. They look to be glass lenses as well. Will these provide a big improvement as well?
 
Wallyman said:
Tiz why its a good idea to make use of a friendly little item called a Relay.
.....Course it takes a little more work..but you can pull the amps for the lights straight from the battery, through an in-line fuse. And use the power, previously for the lights, to energize the relay and then the switch is getting less current through it, and you're extending its life, and also making for more current to the lights,..of course this MAY make you wanna go out and get a stronger battery and high output alt...and then..well you know it just keeps going on and on from there: )


OOops, that's what I meant. The wiring upgrade I purchased used two relays. Like you mentioned it makes the current going throught he switch less and provides more to the lights.
 
VinceYJ said:
How are the HELLA conversion to H4? I can grab a set at the local parts store. They look to be glass lenses as well. Will these provide a big improvement as well?

Those will most likely be DOT housings. I bought a set 5 years ago and was not near as impressed with the beam pattern as I am with these E code housings.
 
OMG!!!!!!

Incredible.

I just did a super duper harness upgrade (dual 40amp relays, 8 gauge cable, loomed, real clean). I also installed the AutoPal E code housings with 90w/100w bulbs.

Fricken amazing I tell you. I thought the Silverstars were incredible, and I really stood by them. But I put these on and I cannot believe it.

Note: If you opt for the 'City Light's, they will not fit without modification to both the city light socket AND cutting the headlamp baskets on the Jeep. However, I find them nifty and worth it. Why you ask? They are a small, additional bulb in the housing that lights up, but does not project very much light. In the past, i have always wanted something really dim for driving through campgrounds and what not. Enough to see, but won't disturb anyone. For this purpose, they work great. Also, when I remote start the Jeep (remote starter alarm) they light up so it helps find the Jeep in parking lots or in the middle of the forest at night at the end of a hike.

Anyways, back to the main lights.....

I was really concerned that a 90w lowbeam would be blinding to other drivers, but it is not. The housings have a nice tight cut off that keeps the light on the ground, and not up in the air. The visibility increase is amazing. Nice, even, wide and far illumination. Honestly, I would say about 3x brighter than the SilverStars. And 200% better illumination.

The highbeams are just outrageous. It looks like I am lighting up a runway for a 747!
 
did anyone try their "euro diamond crystal" Autopal H4 headlights? i clicked the ebay link and it had the ones shown above as well as the euro diamond crystal ones...obviously the diamond clear ones look better, but if the output or beam patter is different i'll go for the regular ones everyone is talking about.
 
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/HID-...ryZ33710QQihZ013QQitemZ230007335122QQtcZphoto

e1_1_b.JPG



these look better...the description seems to be the same as it is also glass. i don't want blue headlights, just a nice clean cutoff with good output. anyone try them?
 
JrTxJ said:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/HID-DIAMOND-EURO-HEADLIGHTS-KIT-JEEP-CHEROKEE-79-01_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33710QQihZ013QQitemZ230007335122QQtcZphoto

e1_1_b.JPG



these look better...the description seems to be the same as it is also glass. i don't want blue headlights, just a nice clean cutoff with good output. anyone try them?

no those are not E-code, who knows how they perform if they don't meet European minimum standards.

I'll take a housing that is approved for use on the Speed limitless (in places) Autobahn.

Any E-code will give you the sharp cutoff, those might to or they might be junk.
 
I'v been wanting an upgrade for awhile now. Just placed the 22.95 offer for a set. Once i get these in and everything works out ok i'll order another set for my son's YJ.

I went to the link supplied for the harness but nothing listed for an XJ, but i have to admit i might not know what i'm looking for?
 
Well, I like them enough I am going to buy another set for my 93 dodge towrig, takes the same lights.

I am just going to buy a harness this time though. By the time I build one I can buy one for about the same price. Even though the one I built is probably heavier.

Andy
 
I have the AutoPal E-Code housings and really like the sharp cutoff. I run 80W-100 bulbs and never get flashed with the lows on, but the high beams really light up the night (very nice in deer/elk/moose country at night). They were not plastic like some of the cheapies. Plastic housings will melt if you put in higher wattage bulbs.
 
I had our guys put it in our system now since I ordered a set. You can buy them from us via the sales line. 1-800-745-2348. Part # HL79567 for the rectangular E-codes, no bulbs. $39.99 per side. Part # HL79562 for round ones (Any of you TJ guys browsing lol).
 
Here's how I did mine w. costs. Got the Hella 200mm H4 e-code glass lamp shells from Susquehanna Motor Sports ($34/ea). Then picked up from eBay four IPF 80w/60w H4 bulbs ($10 w. shipping, but you can used any wattage H4 bulb you want) and wired in a universal APC 4-lamp wiring harness w. relays (much cheaper than the 2-lamp, just cut off the extra two H4 sockets, $9 w. shipping) which fit my MJ perfectly. Then put in a separate fuse block mounted near the PDC on the right fender well and fused each headlight w. 20A fuses. Literally a night and day difference, and a highly recommended upgrade. Don
 
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