different crossmember idea

[RockMonkey]

The only thing I'm concerned with is strength right now. . . It's all 1/4" plate, but flat with the ribbing welded in for support, I'm just not sure it's enough for the radius arms mounted to it also. I'll probably end up running some 1/2" plate under the tcase, to recess the bolts, and to beef up where the mounts will be. If you don't mind me asking a couple questions about your build, what angle are your arms at? I'm was thinking of quietly stealing your idea. Also, what's the distance from your front spring hanger to the center of your front axle? I lost my measurements on the location of the stock front axle and don't want to push it to far forward. I was shooting for about 3" forward. thoughts? help. . .

That's going to be one heavy skid plate/crossmember... I learned several builds ago to build skid plates and suspension crossmembers separately. You can build it all as one peice, and that works fine, but if you need to fix/maintain anything, you have to take your whole suspension apart to do it. Build your crossmembers to take the forces of the suspension, and bolt your skid plate up only as protection from rocks. That makes everything lighter and easier to work on. Skid plates don't have to be nearly as thick as 1/4" if all they are doing is keeping the rocks out. I would build the crossmembers out of square, rectangular, or round stock, rather then thick, heavy plate. If you build the strength into the structure, you can save a lot of weight (and money) by using thinner materials.

By front spring hanger, do you mean factory lower control arm mount? I'm not sure on that, but I can probably measure it sometime this weekend. What angle are you looking for on the control arms? The angle of the arm to the axle/frame, or the angle of the arm to the ground? I moved my front axle about as far as it would go without hitting the pitman arm or drag link joint on compression. 3" sounds about right.

 

[kombi]

This thing ties both sides together nicely.

I love how clean that bumper looks

 

[whitneyj]

Iwas going to use 2x4 rect. tube originally, but the 1/4" plate was free and I decided to go a little different of a direction. The reason I have to build the skid and xmember together is because of the stupid long radius arms, they're going to mount just shy of under the tcase, just a little further back. I know that they're going to have to be mounted low, but this is my first build and "learn the hard way" seems to be my calling.


The angle I'm referring too is the angle the wedges put the radius arms at coming off the axle. I know yours is pretty non-stock, just wondering if you knew.

For the measurement, I'm looking from the rear leaf's front spring mount to the center of the axle tube. I've got mine mocked up at just under 80", just to see what if looks like. The metal and rod ends for the steering aren't here yet, so I can't see where my draglink's path will be. the track bar will be mounted on top of the axle to help any clearance issues.

Another question about the steering. I'm gearing up to build my steering which will also consist of hydo assist. Should I worry about any binding or negative feedback from the steering as a result of pushing the axle to far forward?

I appreciate all the help

 

[RockMonkey]

The angle I'm referring too is the angle the wedges put the radius arms at coming off the axle. I know yours is pretty non-stock, just wondering if you knew.

Okay. It's roughly 30 degrees.

For the measurement, I'm looking from the rear leaf's front spring mount to the center of the axle tube. I've got mine mocked up at just under 80", just to see what if looks like. The metal and rod ends for the steering aren't here yet, so I can't see where my draglink's path will be. the track bar will be mounted on top of the axle to help any clearance issues.

Okay, measured from the front surface of the rear spring mount to the center of the front axle tube is about 78". 80" is in the ball park, but probably a little too far forward if you're using the stock steering box location. Don't forget to account for suspension movement. You have to make sure you place the axle where it will work at full suspension compression and extension, not just at rest.

Another question about the steering. I'm gearing up to build my steering which will also consist of hydo assist. Should I worry about any binding or negative feedback from the steering as a result of pushing the axle to far forward?

I appreciate all the help

As long as the the drag link, tie rod, and pitman arm don't hit anything, and the length and angle of the drag link match that of the track bar, the position of the axle does not matter. Of course, you want to make sure you get your caster angle right.

 

[whitneyj]

That's what I have roughly now. I bent the arms yesterday with mixed results. I had the arms red hot and put a little pressure on them and the metal torn on the outer bend. It's all getting plated anyhow.

I moved the axle back to 78 1/2-79". 80" was to much, the drag link went right over the top of the axle and would've gotten in the way of the trackbar for sure. I've got the radius arm mounts tacked on the frame for now, when I get the trackbar and it's mount built I'll tack all that on and the materials for the steering should be in this week too. I'll cycle the suspension with a floor jack after it's all tacked together to see how it all works together and where I'll need to bumpstop. I'll probably end up "clearancing" the skid under the tranny for the arms to have a little more up travel. Once I get this together and all the bugs worked out, the sheet metal done, and more time, I'll go back and shorten the arms to get them above the framerails and out of the way. I'm not happy with where I have to mount them.

The caster I'm not all that worried about for now. I'll measure it once it's on the ground and I get the lift dialed in and go from there. If it's to off I'll cut the inner "C"s and turn them when I regear and spool it.

Rockmonkey-I really appreciate your help and your input. I'll post some pics to show you how it came out later today.

 

[whitneyj]

I got alot done today, at least if feels that way.
here's a couple shots of the frame end mounts tacked up. they're not done yet, I'm going to cut the back at an angle and plate it all the way to the bellypan. the driver's side mount isn't tacked up because I still need to clock my tcase.




Here's a shot of the arms bent. I forgot to get a pictures with the arms attatched, so this is the best I have.

This just shows how stupid long the arms are. It's a 14" ext. with a 1.25 hiem.


I used some cardboard to make a quick template for the 1/4" plate that'll be welded the the inner part of the C to about 1/2 way down the arm.

Then I cut up some plate and bent and tack welded it in there. I'll be taking the arms to work to finish the welding. We've got a Millermatic hooked to 480V that does everything from arc, MIG, TIG, and ties your shoes. Pretty sweet deal.

I've seem most arms that were plated only stitch welded, just curious if anyone knows why? There seems to be plenty of material to fully weld it and not worry about cracking.