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Dana 44 swapped in, axle seals keep leaking...

sounds like the same reason I used the CV got everything for $38 and figured I'd just used the calipers, then just happend to see if I could modify them to fit a D44 laying around and realized the mounting pattern was the same.
 
Some pics:

Everything installed on my old 8.25
reardisc01.jpg


Close up of how I installed the Currie hose kit
reardiscinstalled.JPG


The brake hose brackets I fabbed up
hosebrackets.JPG


The MORE e-brake cable installed on the bracket
installedline.JPG


And the problem I ran into with the MORE cables, as you can see they're too long. I ended up removing the entire distribution block, cutting it in half, and extending with the use of some angle iron. That was two years ago, and it still works great, I'll get some updated pictures very soon...
ebrakedistblock.JPG



And now some pics of if the Dana 44 with the brake hardware attached. I'll pull the wheels and get some better pics soon.

d4401.jpg

d4402.jpg

d4403.jpg
 
SyCo said:
Some pics:

Great work and pictures, I hope you don't mind if I copy them and keep them for reference.
It will take me a bit before I get my D44 done, in the mean time I'll consider alternatives.
Thanks.
 
OK now that all the bickering is over how about someone help me out here. I was following along pretty well untill the bickering started. I need some help on what to buy, what to fab and what the heck I am doing. I am somewhat mechanically inclined but sometimes need a little push in the right direction.

If I use Crown Vic disc setup what years am I looking for? What all parts will I need? After I get it back to the house and cleaned up what other parts will I need? Please help with this as I can not access the other sites from work, and this is the only place I have access right now.

TIA,
Ray
 
SyCo said:
Some pics:
And now some pics of if the Dana 44 with the brake hardware attached. I'll pull the wheels and get some better pics soon.

Looks good, SyCho.
When you do I'd like to see a picture of the routing of the cables.
Mine, being ZJ and a bit on the short side, I routed over the springs.
I may use the XJ cables on the D44 and have enough slack to go under the springs.
I am moving a bit slow, I don't have all the parts yet, just sent the axle for sandblasting and powdercoating.
 
I finally got around to doing it.
I swapped my D35 for a D44 with ZJ disc brakes, Truetrac and ABS.
Took it out for a ride, everything appears to work as it should.
Tested the ABS by hitting the brakes when the rear tire was on loose dirt and it pulsed. Brought it back in the garage checked for leaks or anythng abnormal, everything looks good.
I am now satisfied with my XJ, it is now exactly the way I wanted it.
Some new tires won't hurt :)
Note: I was planning to shorten my driveshaft because the D44 sticks out an extra 1". After I installed the D44 I measured the amount of travel left at the TC. It used to be 1.3" now it measures a little less than an inch at .980.
I had a heavy friend open the rear hatch and bounce it up and down.
The driveshaft moved in and out by a very small amount.
I don't think it needs to be shortened at all.
 
outlawjeep said:
OK now that all the bickering is over how about someone help me out here. I was following along pretty well untill the bickering started. I need some help on what to buy, what to fab and what the heck I am doing. I am somewhat mechanically inclined but sometimes need a little push in the right direction.

If I use Crown Vic disc setup what years am I looking for? What all parts will I need? After I get it back to the house and cleaned up what other parts will I need? Please help with this as I can not access the other sites from work, and this is the only place I have access right now.

TIA,
Ray

Or go the easy route spend a few more bucks and get everything new in this kit. I have it and I like it works great.

http://www.northridge4x4.com/proddetail.php?prod=TF-DBK-J 450bucks is kinda steep. Prob at least double what you would spend if you can go junk yard diving...
 
Doh! Well, I thought that I had the solution to the leaky XJ44 with discs problem...but I guess not. This weekend I noticed that there was some leakage coming both from the diff vent tube and the driver side axle seal!! Passenger side seems to be holding up just fine.

Maybe it was the 600+ miles of driving in the week prior?? I usually don't put that many miles on my jeep. My friends have suggested that it was due to overfilling. I knew the diff was overfilled, I filled it while it was laying on the ground, but it took like 4 months or so for it to start leaking...?? Also, I use the real heavy thick diff fluid...85w140 I believe.

Has anyone figured out exactly why this happens?? I guess I'm just going to clean the axle up and see if it happens again. Do you think that I should replace the driver side axle seal?? It's 4 months old!!
 
mjma said:
Doh! Well, I thought that I had the solution to the leaky XJ44 with discs problem...but I guess not. This weekend I noticed that there was some leakage coming both from the diff vent tube and the driver side axle seal!! Passenger side seems to be holding up just fine.

Maybe it was the 600+ miles of driving in the week prior?? I usually don't put that many miles on my jeep. My friends have suggested that it was due to overfilling. I knew the diff was overfilled, I filled it while it was laying on the ground, but it took like 4 months or so for it to start leaking...?? Also, I use the real heavy thick diff fluid...85w140 I believe.

Has anyone figured out exactly why this happens?? I guess I'm just going to clean the axle up and see if it happens again. Do you think that I should replace the driver side axle seal?? It's 4 months old!!

I had a chance to see the seals at work while putting my D44 together and I was not too impressed.
Only part of the seal goes in to the axle, the rest sticks out for the retainer.
It has two little raised bands, again not very impressive.
I put the brake bracket over the bearing, I degreased the seal and axle area where the seal rides, and put a very thin bead of RTV on the seal.
Then I installed the shaft with bearing, seal and the caliper mounting bracket.
I also filled the area between the seal lips with grease.
Before I installed the bearing I polished the seal area.
Hope it works.
 
I duno, something is fishy here. Why is it that it blew out the vent tube, and the driver side seal, but not the passenger side??

Why did it wait 4 months to do so??

I don't think that the seal design is any different than any other axle seal in any other axle.

I have gear oil dripping from inside the unibody frame rail (which is great for rust protection, but not good otherwise)!!! That tells me that some pretty good pressure has built up on that side of the axle tube...for oil to be coming out of the top of the vent tube!!

I have a theory or two, just have to think about the mechanisms a little more in detail before I come up with some crazy hypothesis that sounds stupid....


The good news is, that the axle is now just barely overfilled!! And, as far as I can tell, absolutely nothing is wrong with it....other than the fact that some oil came out.
 
Ohh, I must have gotten better at the search function, cause I just came up with this thread

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=65658

RTV where the seal meets the housing. I'll try this.

Still doesn't explain why it only happens on one side or why there was enough pressure to push fluid up the breather into the framerail....but if it works, who cares why, right?
 
mjma said:
I don't think that the seal design is any different than any other axle seal in any other axle.

I don't know what is causing your problem, sounds like there is pressure in the axle, I can understand expansion as it warms up.
OTOH if you know it is overfilled getting the excess fluid out couldn't possibly hurt.
The seals I installed were not as good as the pinion seal or the D35 outer seals, I don't think they are capable of handling any pressure at all just fluid slushing here and there. That's the reason I used some RTV, it looked like it could use it. I think that once you solve the pressure problem it will be OK.
 
mjma said:
Still doesn't explain why it only happens on one side or why there was enough pressure to push fluid up the breather into the framerail....but if it works, who cares why, right?

I wonder, the Dana 44 has been used in many trucks over many years in the same basic configuration. When we buy seals, we ask for a 1987 XJ D44.
Is it possible that other than XJ trucks use a better newer seal?
If I knew that a late Ford uses the same size but better seals, I'd go to the parts store and make believe I'm buying seals for my Ford or whatever.
 
falcon556 said:
http://www.stu-offroad.com/suspension/d44brake/bc-3.htm
This link shows the ebrake assembled.
The little lever with the pin is on the bottom pointing up.
I think it should be reversed.
Any opinions?

Not following you... What little lever with pin? The actuator? It doesn't point up.

Oh, and on another note (the leaky D44 note), I now own two XJs with D44s, and both of them leak oil out of the driver side axle seal, and the breather hose......the one I got and did myself has stock gears (3.55), only things I changed were aussie locker and disc brakes. The other one has detroit, 4.88, and the stock drums (for now). I'm seeing a trend here.......or is it just me?
 
mjma said:
Not following you... What little lever with pin? The actuator? It doesn't point up.

Oh, and on another note (the leaky D44 note), I now own two XJs with D44s, and both of them leak oil out of the driver side axle seal, and the breather hose......the one I got and did myself has stock gears (3.55), only things I changed were aussie locker and disc brakes. The other one has detroit, 4.88, and the stock drums (for now). I'm seeing a trend here.......or is it just me?

There are two little parts at the top that actuate the ebrakes.
One laying on top of the other. The one on the bottom has a little round pin sticking up, the top piece rests against the pin. I think their position is reversed.
 
oh, I think that it is the opposite on the opposite side, get it? Mine came assembeled, and I dont' see why you would take that part apart. I would assume that it came that way from the factory.
 
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