Dana 30 Front Locker Decision - Driving myself crazy

[Mdub]

There are a million posts, some of which I've even started, regarding front lockers. I can't decide and was looking for opinions now that the ECTED has had more run time.

I am mostly leaning towards the ECTED, but I'm concerned about it's on road Limited Slip manners (pulling), and longevity. My rig already pulls to one side while accelerating (I think due to the powertrax in the rear). If the two were to cause pulling to the same side I'd be driving in circles all day! (although that would be a good excuse why I get home late from the bar now and again).

Also, since I'm running 35s on a stock D30 (4.10 gears) I am a little worried I'll start gobbling shafts once it's locked....so I was thinking maybe going lockright in the front...

So guys, PLEASE give me some good reasons to go one way or another. It is big-time wheeling season here in AZ, I need to shit or get off the pot !

Here's some pics for giggles:

AND A POSER...For the ladies !

 

[red_01_xj]

you wont notice a limited slip in the front in two wheel drive...and on the trail i doubt you will notice it until it is locked

 

[northwestxj]

Also, since I'm running 35s on a stock D30 (4.10 gears) I am a little worried I'll start gobbling shafts once it's locked....so I was thinking maybe going lockright in the front...

I'm a little confused about this? Your concerned that you may be breaking shafts once its locked...so you thinking about putting in a lockright (an automatic locker, locking the front whenever its in 4wd)? That doesnt make sense to me...

I can understand your concern about breaking shafts...thats why to me the ECTED sounds like a better solution so that you can only activate it when you really need it, thus keeping the strain off of shafts and steering the majority of the time. Also, the limited slip will drive fine on the road.

 

[Mdub]

I'm a little confused about this? Your concerned that you may be breaking shafts once its locked...so you thinking about putting in a lockright (an automatic locker, locking the front whenever its in 4wd)? That doesnt make sense to me...

I can understand your concern about breaking shafts...thats why to me the ECTED sounds like a better solution so that you can only activate it when you really need it, thus keeping the strain off of shafts and steering the majority of the time. Also, the limited slip will drive fine on the road.

Ok ok, that's what I'm talking about here some friggin logic. Yeah that makes more sense. I guess I was just thinking, I'd be blowing stuff all over the place so I should go cheap (although I've never broke a shaft yet, because I try to keep wheel spin, especially the type where the wheels leave the ground to a minimum). Yeah, I'd consider that one vote for ECTED. I look forward to hearing some ECTED guys come forward with the good/bad/ugly. Lots of the other posts I read were saying things like, "...not so good when they first came out" and "probably improved since their initial release". I'm wondering what if any changes were made? or were any really necessary or just a few memorable posts have poisoned my mind.

 

[gregmondro]

What makes you want an Ected locker versus some of the other popular selectable lockers out there? (ARB, OX)?

 

[yossarian19]

I don't know exactly where Gilbert is in AZ or what your elevation is, but I've got this to say about LSD in the snow: it sucks.
My 98 has the factory LSD in back and it slides sideways at the lightest provocation in the snow. I have to put it in 4wd to do much of anything from a stop in the snow.
I'd be worried to have anything even resembling an auto locker in the front end. If BOTH ends break loose in snow, you might be in trouble.
Others will call me a vagina for not being able to blah blah blah but thats my opinion. If you might take it out in the snow, LSD isnt very good.

 

[gregmondro]

Is the limited slip portion of the Ected on when the front end isn't engaged with torque going to it (2hi)?

I was under the assumption that it was only in limited slip mode when you were in 4wd, with the option of full lock when activated.

 

[northwestxj]

Ok ok, that's what I'm talking about here some friggin logic. Yeah that makes more sense. I guess I was just thinking, I'd be blowing stuff all over the place so I should go cheap (although I've never broke a shaft yet, because I try to keep wheel spin, especially the type where the wheels leave the ground to a minimum). Yeah, I'd consider that one vote for ECTED. I look forward to hearing some ECTED guys come forward with the good/bad/ugly. Lots of the other posts I read were saying things like, "...not so good when they first came out" and "probably improved since their initial release". I'm wondering what if any changes were made? or were any really necessary or just a few memorable posts have poisoned my mind.

Yes, I would definitely be concerned about breaking shafts with 35s and an auto locker in a d30. Depends a lot on your wheeling style, and terrain. I broke stock shafts with my d30 and aussie locker on 31s. Its not necessarily that I'd vote for the ECTED, but I would vote for a selectable locker. I also have not heard too much about the ECTED, but I wouldnt hesitate to run a ARB. As long as they are SET UP RIGHT, they seem to be very reliable. I'd also maybe checkout an OX.

 

[Mdub]

Yes, I would definitely be concerned about breaking shafts with 35s and an auto locker in a d30. Depends a lot on your wheeling style, and terrain. I broke stock shafts with my d30 and aussie locker on 31s. Its not necessarily that I'd vote for the ECTED, but I would vote for a selectable locker. I also have not heard too much about the ECTED, but I wouldnt hesitate to run a ARB. As long as they are SET UP RIGHT, they seem to be very reliable. I'd also maybe checkout an OX.

Yep, OX is on my list. ARB is just too expensive after you put the compressor in and what not.

 

[heapxj]

Whatever you do, don't put a locker in the 30 unless you like pain and lots of it. I speak from experience. Makes me sick to think about the amount of $ I dumped into that thing.

 

[Goatman]

Don't know what year XJ you have, and if you have a disconnect or non-disconnect front axle. If you have a disconnect axle, the front driveline will spin all the time in 2wd with the Ected limited slip, but it will not spin all the time in 2wd with an Ox or ARB that's unlocked. With a non-disconnet axle it doesn't matter since the driveline spins all the time anyway.

I assume you have chromo shafts and aftermarket axle u-joints in that thing. With AZ wheeling and 35's on a D30 and a front locker, Spicer shafts will blow like toothpicks.

 

[MudDawg]

If it CONSTANTLY pulls with a powertrax...something is seriously wrong with the rear tire diameter...either one of them is shorter....like different size (even if they are both supposedly the same size) or one is under inflated so the effective size is different.....or the powertrax is broken....or the rear axle is out of alignment...and if you have a Disco front....life will suck with an Ected on the street...it WILL pull to one side as well as spin the shaft.

 

[xjaddiction]

Just do it...

I've driven;

HP Dana 30's with lock-rites, stock shafts 760's (297 u-joints), and 35's, for years with NO problems. Oh I guess you could try yo tell me I don't wheel very hard then... but I do. I just stick to a simple moto... Get stuck, try again, still stuck, 4 LO if I haven't already... take different line.... get pulled or winch. I rarely ever use a winch. Changing lines will help. Keep the vehicle crossed up on obstacles to vary wheel points of contact.


DO NOT BOUNCE IT REPEATEDLY. If you start bounceing, QUIT! If you need to bump it, fine.


More than anything, running a locker requires propper gearing. If you can keep your speed down, don't have to bump, have great articulation and keep your wheels from getting under ledges, have some patience, you will do fine with a locker up ront.

Auto lockers will notice clicking on quick sharp turns on road driving. Really don't notice it otherwise.

If you have snow to drive in, will take some getting used to driving. Slow isthe way to go with a front locker automatic in the snow.

A lot of snow driving, I would get a selectable type locker.

Another point about auto locker, auto locking hubs, and a rear auto locker that I noticed on my 35" tired red cherokeee.

Steep hill climbs, with tight turns at the top left, or right, sometimes steering is very difficult. The variable rate steering box in the XJ's will get locked up and almost imposible to turn, you can but...

Make sure your box is braced!

My two pennies worth.

 

[IH8RDS]

Throw in an ARB and forget it. I have been running front and rear for almost 2 years. I plan on moving back to Utah in 3 years, so I ditched the No-slip I had because I wanted full control in snow/ice conditions.

 

[xL8 APEKSx]

you wont notice a limited slip in the front in two wheel drive...and on the trail i doubt you will notice it until it is locked

He's right. I've had FWD sports cars with LSD's. It will be "invisible" until one of the front wheels starts to slip.

When that happens, it will send a certain amount of power to the wheel with better grip (I'm used to a 70/30 split with the diffs I have used in the past).

It won't completely grab the wheel out of your hands when it engages, but you will feel it. However, you will know when to expect it so it shouldn't surprise you too much. Plus, when you're wheeling in conditions where the front is slipping, you'll probably have it locked up anyway.

If it acts as an LSD when not locked, you may not even need to lock it very often. That's kinda cool!

How hardcore of a wheeler are you? I did some sick sh!t in my last rig with an open front and factory LSD in the rear. Never needed a front locker. I keep wanting to get one now, but I think it's just to keep up with the Jones'. I dunno. lol. Friggin inch-itis works with axle mods too, apparently.

 

[lancey3]

An Autolocker is invisible in 2wd. DO NOT BUY AN ECTED. Hopefully some people with horror stories will chime in. Save you're pennies and get an Aussie.

 

[Mdub]

Guys, thanks for all of the responses, here are my gobacks:

MUDAWG, no it doesn't really pull that hard and not all of the time, but there is a difference between under power and not. It's been on the rig for a while with lots of different tire combos so not too worried about it.

heapxj, what do you mean about the pain in the a$$ of a locker in the D30? Seems like lots of folks have them. Is it the install or the final product that displeased you?

Goatman, I have the non-disconnect. It is looking more and more like the OX is going in. And nope, stock shafts. I haven't broke anything yet, and believe me there are some challenging runs out here. I think the key is to limit wheel spin and hop at the same time. I understand your comment though, it seems like I keep expecting an axle failure, but not yet, so I'm gonna leave well enough alone, all the while knowing that if I do break one (or more) I'll have go improve the axle material quality. It shouldn't take the locker with it if a shaft fails right?

xjaddiction, I agree with you. I've not had troubles with breaking shafts (yet). I just try to keep it under control. I've had the times where I get a little crazy, but I try to space those events few and far between.

So...anyway I'm still not decided. It is down to Lockright, since there's no snow around here and it's the cheap solution and an OX, because it is the RIGHT solution. Thanks for the sounding board and ya'll have a good Holiday!

 

[northwestxj]

It shouldn't take the locker with it if a shaft fails right?

Most every time when you break a stock shaft, it's actually the ujoint that is breaking. Then the shock load from the ujoint will take out the shaft as well, around the "ears" of the shaft. This will not take out the locker, just dont drive on it after it breaks.

If you do break after the locker, I would recommend some better chromo shafts. I'd be careful putting in some chromo shafts and bulletproof ujoints (ctm, ox) because then your weak link will probably be the d30 ring and pinion rather then the shaft/joint.

The OX seems like a very good solution for you.