custom LED signal marker progress PICS

The LEDs are brighter when the parking lights are on. They're extremely dim (flashing or otherwise) when the parking
lights are off. I had no idea that was going to happen; they're not bright enough in daylight with the parking lights off.

I didn't know John when I shipped the markers back for repair, and I wouldn't-have met him if it wasn't for all the drama
this guy caused me. I spoke with John after I posted those vids; he'll try to repair the markers, but he also said he may
have to start this project from scratch. Considering he's busy with our tail lights I doubt this project will see completion
anytime soon. Anyways here are the last two pics of the failed project. Hopefully I'll be able to revive this thread
in the future with some good news.

Broken02.jpg

Broken01.jpg
 
Man that just sucks! I was hoping everything would work out well in the end, and was thinking of getting myself a pair of all went well.
 
Just curious... Why a 6 ohm resistor? Usually, I use a 1K to current limit the LEDs. A 6 Ohm will cause a rather large voltage drop.
 
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I dropped John an email to ask about the resistor.

Actually, he had the boards completed in August except for one LED that refused to light no matter what he tried. He has another guy looking over the boards for some input right now. I can tell you that we're both convinced this project's cursed.
 
o-gauge-steamer said:
Just curious... Why a 6 ohm resistor? Usually, I use a 1K to current limit the LEDs. A 6 Ohm will cause a rather large voltage drop.
Click to expand...

The resistor value should be calculated for the leds in use based on voltage drop, number of leds, and leds current rating.
 
Would have been a great product, had it worked out properly. Wonder what exactly is causing the lighting problems. Would think wiring a bunch of LEDs together would be pretty straight forward. Then after they are all wired and working, just have the other things to figure out like a dim setting for the parking lights and full brightness for the blinker. Must be something I am missing.

Messed around with LEDs before, but never actually made a blinker out of them.
 
What kind of LED's are you using? Brand-wise that is. Some superflux LED's just suck right out of the box. I've always had good luck with bestofhongkong.

Have you considered doing a PWM setup? Seems like at this point it would be MUCH easier than trying to go off of the Jeep's stock turn system. I'm almost convinced some of your issues have to be in quality control or bad wiring, but who knows...
 
I have four years sunk into these markers. I'm convinced they're cursed, but I refuse to give up... even if it takes another four.

The original version was destroyed in a car wreck (the builder was taking it to the chromers when he got t-boned). The second version had burned out LEDs (among other BS). This, latest version, literally got lost in the mail... they had to hunt down the parcel, and reship it. It also dims when I turn on my headlights, and the left signal indicator light stays on permanently (except when I actually use the left turn signal that is).
 
I really don't understand how these things can be so botched time after time. It all comes down to power and ground. You're using a pulse width modulator correct? And from the countless things I've dissected in my heep I've found Chrysler's wiring diagrams are pretty easy to read. NOT correct at times, but understandable.
 
These things are getting "botched" because they're more complicated than you give them credit to be. Having said that, I can PM you John's email address, and you can discuss the schematic with him. I'm sure he can hook you up with a set of led boards in return (or at least sell you a set close to cost).
 
LEDs are a bit more complicated than power and ground. Things like resistors, led voltage, etc. And it gets especially complicated with many LEDs and making them flash and/or dim.
 
^ I understand it can get complex, but you can implement tools that essentially do this for you. Adjustable pulse width modulators are perfect for this. Takes out a ton of the resistors and much less soldering. Get your max milliamps and forward wattage figured out, and leave the "dimming" to the strobe effect of the pulse width modulator. Set the duty cycle of the PWM for how dim you want them to be during turns and you're in business. Much easier to just buy a premade microcontroller than it would be to actually assemble and solder an entire board. It gets even easier when you use 'snap' LED's and some custom acid washed printer circuit boards. Design your circuit, snap in the LED's in the proper series, and hook it all up to the controller.

You can even keep the stock "back and fourth" turn function where the front signal flashes and alternates with the one on the side of the header panel. Just put a few blocking diodes in the power feeds so the current can't backtrack.

If this were just a few LED's it'd be a snap. But with dozens of them like in this project, you're right, it can get really confusing trying to regulate and feed them all. Most PWM's can handle around 1.5 amps max, which is where you have to do some calculating. If all the LEDs in the array pull less than that at the design current then you can use it without further regulation/modification.

This thread has been deceased for a while, I'm gonna have to go back to the beginning and re-read it to get up to speed again.

Edit: Alright just re-read the whole thread. I see the boards were indeed custom printed, but with those LED"s all whacked out the way they are they seem to just be wired in wrong on the boards. Poor planning or printing? I have no idea. I'll get with some buddies and put together a schematic, and hopefully I can find the time to slap together a demo board. Won't be inside your slick vacuum formed housing, but I'll make sure to get the same amount of diodes and the same functions you're trying to achieve. This is a very possible project....
 
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I just ordered an EP27 LED flasher module along with some LED protectors from autoillumination in an effort to eliminate the load resistors (they get too hot, too fast). I also sent John some pics of the 3157 plugs so he can make sure they were wired properly. I'm almost certain they're not... which is probably what's causing the signal indicator to stay solid.

I'll keep everyone posted.
 
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