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Colorado B/S Thread

Re: The Colorado BS thread

How can they be sure what caused it?

Looks like a great way to strip the paint for a new paint job.
 
Re: The Colorado BS thread

Well that sucks. I just the trickle charger on mine this morning too...

I got the Jeep turned around today. My steering box I rebuilt seems to work and hold fluid. Got an interesting look from the neighbors since it had an open header. Or maybe it was because the kid was steering
 
Re: The Colorado BS thread

Or a wiring short that drained the battery enough for it to need charging?

If you got a good battery it should hold a charge with no draw , so disconnecting the battery should ensure no draw . The only time my battery was dead after sitting was when it had a bad cell ..I don't know why I bought another optima after the last Yellow top died . When I relocate my xj batteries I am going to put on a simple load disconnect switch.
 
The Colorado BS thread

76c584f7d76f0300873ad4275fae3fbc.jpg


I'm in Iceland. Lots of these big deep snow rigs running around. Everyone else running studded snow tires, and so many diesel cars.

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Re: The Colorado BS thread

My daughter just discovered (burning smell) while driving up a mountain side pass that her 1989 XJ is leaking oil on the exhaust pipe, and smoking. Planning to try adding Bars Leak rear main seal additive and maybe jump her up to 15W40 oil and finding some way to get the beast cleaned up (washed) without killing the TPS or electrics so she can spot the actual leak sources, but she is a newbee at that, and has no idea how to change the RMS and pan gasket, so she may may looking one of you up soon. She still has no tools (they are still here with me), and no place to work on it (apartments).

Also need to make sure it is not a CCV line clog building up pressure in the crank case combined with a steep drive uphill that caused it. I think she has already put maybe 1000 maybe 1500 miles on it with no issues, so the long up hill drive may have triggered it. The drip was definitely motor oil off the front of the Trans bell housing cover plate. The other three issues are under control so far.

Could loose oil pan gasket bolts cause the RMS to leak some?

Can one buy the Tetrachloroethylene, non flammable, paint safe, brake cleaner aerosol up there at the parts stores? It is great washing off oil fast and drying fast. But some areas no longer allow its sale, Kalifornika I hear.

I'm available the next two days.

im available too and have a renix compliant scan tool

Does she ever come up North?

I love my duratracs. Great tire but not cheap.
 
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Re: The Colorado BS thread

I just pulled a Napa (gold?) oil filter off of my 1989 White 4x4 Cherokee I bought a few years ago, parked while I was ill and finally started prepping for service. The filter was the PO's.

The engine was run a week ago, and today when I replaced the NAPA oil filter it was bone dry. The Anti-drain back valve, if had one, and I think it did, failed!!! I have never changed a K&N oil filter with out oil getting everywhere as it dumped the oil it retained thanks to the anti drain back valve, and upside down filter location. That is one reason I never use anything but K&N filters now on Jeeps. I read something years ago about most others have ADB Valve leak down problems.

Mobil 1 is a good filter, Wix Premium is a good filter. Fram lost a ton of consumer confidence after people started cutting open filters and comparing them.

If that counter guy can show you dissected filters to show his is better, he might be on the right track.
 
Re: The Colorado BS thread

I just pulled a Napa (gold?) oil filter off of my 1989 White 4x4 Cherokee...

The engine was run a week ago, and today when I replaced the NAPA oil filter it was bone dry. The Anti-drain back valve, if had one, and I think it did, failed!!!

I read something years ago about most others have ADB Valve leak down problems.
I had the same experience with a NAPA Gold oil filter. The knocking sound at startup found a causal relationship. Later that year, I had valvetrain problems. I stopped buying the NAPA Gold filters.

I swapped in a good junkyard engine, and installed the later style Oil Filter Adapter. I still make a mess when I change the filter.
 
Re: The Colorado BS thread

I did the 87 to 91 threaded tube swap, US to metric(?), and started using the 1 quart oil filters on my 87 Wagoneer about 10 years ago, the HP-3001 (I think it is the Ford V8 truck filter). I was going to change the oil filter direction, but there is no room to swap filters if you do that MOD imho. I must admit I was a bit shocked at first at how bone dry that NAPA filter was. Hope I got it in time.
 
Re: The Colorado BS thread

My daughter just discovered (burning smell) while driving up a mountain side pass that her 1989 XJ is leaking oil on the exhaust pipe, and smoking. Planning to try adding Bars Leak rear main seal additive and maybe jump her up to 15W40 oil and finding some way to get the beast cleaned up (washed) without killing the TPS or electrics so she can spot the actual leak sources, but she is a newbee at that, and has no idea how to change the RMS and pan gasket, so she may may looking one of you up soon. She still has no tools (they are still here with me), and no place to work on it (apartments).

Also need to make sure it is not a CCV line clog building up pressure in the crank case combined with a steep drive uphill that caused it. I think she has already put maybe 1000 maybe 1500 miles on it with no issues, so the long up hill drive may have triggered it. The drip was definitely motor oil off the front of the Trans bell housing cover plate. The other three issues are under control so far.

Could loose oil pan gasket bolts cause the RMS to leak some?

Can one buy the Tetrachloroethylene, non flammable, paint safe, brake cleaner aerosol up there at the parts stores? It is great washing off oil fast and drying fast. But some areas no longer allow its sale, Kalifornika I hear.
We still have some chlorinated solvents, so far.

Oil pan bolts to RMS question: No.

I am currently "between jobs," so, I can schedule time to cover the basic diagnostics.
 
Re: The Colorado BS thread

I did the 87 to 91 threaded tube swap, US to metric(?), and started using the 1 quart oil filters on my 87 Wagoneer about 10 years ago, the HP-3001 (I think it is the Ford V8 truck filter). I was going to change the oil filter direction, but there is no room to swap filters if you do that MOD imho. I must admit I was a bit shocked at first at how bone dry that NAPA filter was. Hope I got it in time.
Yup, I give blood every time I change the oil. :)

In all fairness, this drainback valve problem presented itself in January, when start-up temperatures were in the teens, Fahrenheit. Compound that by the fact that (at the time) I dumped a quart of ATF in the crankcase a week before any planned oil change. You can't fault a part the was engineered to withstand engine oil, as opposed to transmission fluid.

After switching to Wix Premium filters, I started reading about NAPA cutting cost on some product lines...
 
Re: The Colorado BS thread

We still have some chlorinated solvents, so far.

Oil pan bolts to RMS question: No.

I am currently "between jobs," so, I can schedule time to cover the basic diagnostics.

But isn't the RMS bottom half pushed up against the crankshaft by the oil pan and thus by the bolts?
 
Re: The Colorado BS thread

I had the same experience with a NAPA Gold oil filter. The knocking sound at startup found a causal relationship. Later that year, I had valvetrain problems. I stopped buying the NAPA Gold filters.

I swapped in a good junkyard engine, and installed the later style Oil Filter Adapter. I still make a mess when I change the filter.

I had this problem on mine. Turned out the oil filter adapter o ring inside that seals the two different oil passages was not sealing and allowed oil to drain out (it was not the filter) and took longer to get oil pressure at start up.
 
Re: The Colorado BS thread

76c584f7d76f0300873ad4275fae3fbc.jpg


I'm in Iceland. Lots of these big deep snow rigs running around. Everyone else running studded snow tires, and so many diesel cars.

Sent from my SM-N920P using Tapatalk

I'm jealous! I bet that's a cool area. It seems the moment you leave the us there's 3 times as many diesels around. EPA has done a wonderful job of making those too expensive to bring here.
 
Re: The Colorado BS thread

I had this problem on mine. Turned out the oil filter adapter o ring inside that seals the two different oil passages was not sealing and allowed oil to drain out (it was not the filter) and took longer to get oil pressure at start up.


Interesting, I will be watching for that for sure, thanks for the heads up!!!! I can kind of see that as I did the OFA o'rings on my 87 beast a decade ago.
 
Re: The Colorado BS thread

I'm jealous! I bet that's a cool area. It seems the moment you leave the us there's 3 times as many diesels around. EPA has done a wonderful job of making those too expensive to bring here.

My 85 is diesel, transplanted Franken jeep with a Nissan 1981 720 pick up truck diesel engine it. 34 mpgs :)

And I make my living as a EPA chemical engineering consultant. If it were not for the EPA we would still be using carburetors.

The new diesels are all over the place in Houston.
 
Re: The Colorado BS thread

Finally! But look overseas,and EVERYTHING is diesel, not just a few LD trucks. The price of diesel after treatment has severely pushed the diesel back. Although it's making a comeback, theyre so held back by the multitude of crap they were forced to add on for NOx and particulate emmisions.
 
Re: The Colorado BS thread

But isn't the RMS bottom half pushed up against the crankshaft by the oil pan and thus by the bolts?
On the 4.0 the rms is integrated into the rear main bearing cap. Oil pan is a completely different sealing surface and the are not at all integrated

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