proracedriver616
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- co
Re: The Colorado BS thread
Hahahaha oh man that's terrible, but your post made me laugh pretty hard
Hahahaha oh man that's terrible, but your post made me laugh pretty hard
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Colorado B/S Thread
- Thread starter in4aride
- Start date
Re: The Colorado BS thread
Pulled the driver side knuckle to plate it , and rebuild the yukon joints ...lol...these joints have been run with no zerks for 6 years and are still in acceptable shape this time around I will remember to put the zerks in after installing they do not fit through the knuckle with zerks on and last time I forgot . It being so cold out I was going to skip the plating , but did it anyway then wrapped the knuckle in a welding blanket ...lol...if the welds crack I will call it a sign and order some solids this week . I have no idea how these will hold , but after cleaning in prep for welding I found no cracks and have had 40 boggers on them for years , but jave been using the stock tie rod casting , so hppefully the gusset makes them hold 44s and high steer I think I am going to to tie the high steer arm into the stock arm I may even weld it to the knuckle because I am not sold on 4 studs holding the arm on and welding the arm to the knuckle should remove that concern , and I have a battery powered angle grinder so should I need it to come off on trail I can cut the welds .
Pulled the driver side knuckle to plate it , and rebuild the yukon joints ...lol...these joints have been run with no zerks for 6 years and are still in acceptable shape this time around I will remember to put the zerks in after installing they do not fit through the knuckle with zerks on and last time I forgot . It being so cold out I was going to skip the plating , but did it anyway then wrapped the knuckle in a welding blanket ...lol...if the welds crack I will call it a sign and order some solids this week . I have no idea how these will hold , but after cleaning in prep for welding I found no cracks and have had 40 boggers on them for years , but jave been using the stock tie rod casting , so hppefully the gusset makes them hold 44s and high steer I think I am going to to tie the high steer arm into the stock arm I may even weld it to the knuckle because I am not sold on 4 studs holding the arm on and welding the arm to the knuckle should remove that concern , and I have a battery powered angle grinder so should I need it to come off on trail I can cut the welds .
SolarBell
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Wheat Ridge, CO
Re: The Colorado BS thread
Feels like I change directions more than an old creek, but money talks.
Made the decision to sell the big truck and get rid of the accompanying big payment. Jeep will resume being my DD and project rig. Going to try and find a used one-ton Sprinter van to take over moto transport duties. Looking at selling the supercharger setup as a one-off "kit".
Feels like I change directions more than an old creek, but money talks.
Made the decision to sell the big truck and get rid of the accompanying big payment. Jeep will resume being my DD and project rig. Going to try and find a used one-ton Sprinter van to take over moto transport duties. Looking at selling the supercharger setup as a one-off "kit".
trippled
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- colorado springs, co
Re: The Colorado BS thread
Please do not buy a sprinter. Just don't do it. I'd feel more reliable in a Yugo.
Please do not buy a sprinter. Just don't do it. I'd feel more reliable in a Yugo.
SolarBell
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Wheat Ridge, CO
The Colorado BS thread
I'm looking at 2005-2007 models, which appear to have a much better reliability track record than the newer ones. I can't afford any of the Promaster or Transit vans since they don't go old enough to be in my price range. Other than that I'm stuck with the low ceiling E350's.
I'm looking at 2005-2007 models, which appear to have a much better reliability track record than the newer ones. I can't afford any of the Promaster or Transit vans since they don't go old enough to be in my price range. Other than that I'm stuck with the low ceiling E350's.
trippled
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- colorado springs, co
Re: The Colorado BS thread
At least most people can fix an e series. Sprinters, no. If you thought the 6.7 was expensive, wait til that breaks. I've worked on a bunch of those sprinters. I wouldn't touch one, but that's my opinion. you could always look for a small box van. I had a few buddies who raced MX and that's what they used.
At least most people can fix an e series. Sprinters, no. If you thought the 6.7 was expensive, wait til that breaks. I've worked on a bunch of those sprinters. I wouldn't touch one, but that's my opinion. you could always look for a small box van. I had a few buddies who raced MX and that's what they used.
Xhavier_5478
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Colorado Springs, CO
Re: The Colorado BS thread
Welcome, what brings you to Salida? Do you boat or mountain bike?
Welcome, what brings you to Salida? Do you boat or mountain bike?
old_man
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Loveland, Colorado
Re: The Colorado BS thread
Welcome to Colorado. As long as you can find a job, you picked a great place where you can do a ton of offroading. I look forward to meeting and wheeling with you.
Welcome to Colorado. As long as you can find a job, you picked a great place where you can do a ton of offroading. I look forward to meeting and wheeling with you.
Re: The Colorado BS thread
Pulled the Detroit in the 60 to replace a seal ...lol...I like the beef of the 60 , but not so much while wearing nitrile gloves and holding a carrier dripping in gear oil while trying to slip it back in without dropping it ...I know a fancy tool exists for this seal , but a 36mm socket and a hammer is about as fancy as I am .
Pulled the Detroit in the 60 to replace a seal ...lol...I like the beef of the 60 , but not so much while wearing nitrile gloves and holding a carrier dripping in gear oil while trying to slip it back in without dropping it ...I know a fancy tool exists for this seal , but a 36mm socket and a hammer is about as fancy as I am .
freerider15
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- FoCo, Crawlorado
Re: The Colorado BS thread
I really must have some part of my subconscious that likes to be a glutton for punishment.
This all started with a simple fuse. Yes, it was running as of the night before last.
Ugh...
I really must have some part of my subconscious that likes to be a glutton for punishment.
This all started with a simple fuse. Yes, it was running as of the night before last.
Ugh...
- Location
- MilkyWay Galaxy
Re: The Colorado BS thread
LOL, are you referring to the entire jeep, LMAO, or just the small batch of wiring on top of the engine?
Oh, and BTW, are you planning to roll that beast? From the looks of the hood area, I'd say yes?
LOL, are you referring to the entire jeep, LMAO, or just the small batch of wiring on top of the engine?
Oh, and BTW, are you planning to roll that beast? From the looks of the hood area, I'd say yes?
freerider15
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- FoCo, Crawlorado
Re: The Colorado BS thread
We'll given my build...probably the entire thing :laugh:
Luckily I've gotten very adept at reading the wiring diagrams, tracing, etc.
Well, it is a buggy, so yeah I need to be prepared for the inevitable :laugh:
Would really suck to roll and kill an engine.
We'll given my build...probably the entire thing :laugh:
Luckily I've gotten very adept at reading the wiring diagrams, tracing, etc.
Well, it is a buggy, so yeah I need to be prepared for the inevitable :laugh:
Would really suck to roll and kill an engine.
DutchVDub
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Milliken, CO
Re: The Colorado BS thread
Apparently you can sell a 1992 Sportster 883 for enough to turn around and buy a 2007 Suzuki 1250 Bandit S. Go figure.
And with the trunk removed and one of the other included windscreens installed.
Apparently you can sell a 1992 Sportster 883 for enough to turn around and buy a 2007 Suzuki 1250 Bandit S. Go figure.
And with the trunk removed and one of the other included windscreens installed.
Re: The Colorado BS thread
Finally got around to installing the Yukon hardcore hubs I have had sitting since 2015 ...lol...getting the first one in took about 3 hours it would go in about 1/4 of the way then stop and I could feel it tapping metal. I test fit both parts of the driver gear separate they fit in easy but together they only went in 1/4 , so after head scratching I figured the spring must have been catching the lip where the hub splines start , and that is unreachable...lol....finally I pulled the tie rod to see if the knuckle movement would move the shaft and move the spring and finally it was in . The other side was an easy install ...lol...minus the continuing issue of the stub shaft sticking out past the edge of the hub , which will not let the me install the locking hub dial with the hub properly seated against the spindle I had modified a factory d60 hub dial to fit the 35 spline stub 6 years ago when these Yukons went in and I ground the stub a bit to just make it work , but I need to find the issue this time I am pretty sure it is the quality or lack of with Yukon shafts , however the old shafts looked cobbled from the previous owner so it could be the hub , but I am leaning towards the shaft and the only good fix I can see due to the snap ring location is trim what I need and cut a new groove for the snap ring....lol...or buy a new shaft and just bolt it up...that is too easy and would dictate common sense .
Finally got around to installing the Yukon hardcore hubs I have had sitting since 2015 ...lol...getting the first one in took about 3 hours it would go in about 1/4 of the way then stop and I could feel it tapping metal. I test fit both parts of the driver gear separate they fit in easy but together they only went in 1/4 , so after head scratching I figured the spring must have been catching the lip where the hub splines start , and that is unreachable...lol....finally I pulled the tie rod to see if the knuckle movement would move the shaft and move the spring and finally it was in . The other side was an easy install ...lol...minus the continuing issue of the stub shaft sticking out past the edge of the hub , which will not let the me install the locking hub dial with the hub properly seated against the spindle I had modified a factory d60 hub dial to fit the 35 spline stub 6 years ago when these Yukons went in and I ground the stub a bit to just make it work , but I need to find the issue this time I am pretty sure it is the quality or lack of with Yukon shafts , however the old shafts looked cobbled from the previous owner so it could be the hub , but I am leaning towards the shaft and the only good fix I can see due to the snap ring location is trim what I need and cut a new groove for the snap ring....lol...or buy a new shaft and just bolt it up...that is too easy and would dictate common sense .
proracedriver616
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- co
Re: The Colorado BS thread
Or take measurements and call Yukon and see if they have a solution for you
Or take measurements and call Yukon and see if they have a solution for you
Re: The Colorado BS thread
My shafts are 6 years old they were used shafts I got from Josh . The issue I see is most likely stub shaft length the possible ways to correct this are...use the thicker bearing race on the inner hub bearing this would push the hub out...get shafts that are cut correct for the hub already...and what I am going to do in about an hour ...pull out my DeWalt and a 4.5 cut off wheel .
I should not assume the Yukon's fit poorly since these shafts were sold to me not by the vendor but second hand ...lol...at the time I paid $1000 used not knowing they were $1200 new in 2011 so could have bought from Randys and had options for swapping them ,but with second hand part this is the option ...The shafts have held up great however no twisting of splines present I was just hoping the hub selectors being Yukon would fit like my modified selector ...nope. Cutting them down seems no different than what I did with the Yukon cut to fit shafts I got for my 14 bolt .
My shafts are 6 years old they were used shafts I got from Josh . The issue I see is most likely stub shaft length the possible ways to correct this are...use the thicker bearing race on the inner hub bearing this would push the hub out...get shafts that are cut correct for the hub already...and what I am going to do in about an hour ...pull out my DeWalt and a 4.5 cut off wheel .
I should not assume the Yukon's fit poorly since these shafts were sold to me not by the vendor but second hand ...lol...at the time I paid $1000 used not knowing they were $1200 new in 2011 so could have bought from Randys and had options for swapping them ,but with second hand part this is the option ...The shafts have held up great however no twisting of splines present I was just hoping the hub selectors being Yukon would fit like my modified selector ...nope. Cutting them down seems no different than what I did with the Yukon cut to fit shafts I got for my 14 bolt .
Re: The Colorado BS thread
Looking at Yukons Website they list all 35 spline chevy stubs at 12.0 inches and Reverse Rotation 60 at 11.375 and 11.4 ...So without measuring them I do know none of the 4 point sockets I have fit the stub depth correctly they just barely engage the nut ...I think I am going to pull the spindle to get an accurate measurement of the stub to see just what I have I could modify the shaft still in the spindle , but want the measurement for future order reference ...If I have 12 inch long stubs from end of spline to u joint center I have stubs for Chevy not Reverse rotation Ford.60 ...lol...anything in between would just be quality control on fit ...lol...I'm tired of working I just wanna load it n the trailer and head to BV .
Looking at Yukons Website they list all 35 spline chevy stubs at 12.0 inches and Reverse Rotation 60 at 11.375 and 11.4 ...So without measuring them I do know none of the 4 point sockets I have fit the stub depth correctly they just barely engage the nut ...I think I am going to pull the spindle to get an accurate measurement of the stub to see just what I have I could modify the shaft still in the spindle , but want the measurement for future order reference ...If I have 12 inch long stubs from end of spline to u joint center I have stubs for Chevy not Reverse rotation Ford.60 ...lol...anything in between would just be quality control on fit ...lol...I'm tired of working I just wanna load it n the trailer and head to BV .
Re: The Colorado BS thread
I think I may measure my roofline and see if I still fit in the garage if not I should with the suspension sucked down ...because my laziness has me wanting to work indoors now as opposed to the dirt storage lot ...Going ro run Chinamans in a week or two maybe Carnage if I can find another rig to go with .
I think I may measure my roofline and see if I still fit in the garage if not I should with the suspension sucked down ...because my laziness has me wanting to work indoors now as opposed to the dirt storage lot ...Going ro run Chinamans in a week or two maybe Carnage if I can find another rig to go with .
trippled
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- colorado springs, co
Re: The Colorado BS thread
Actually going back together! Trans cooler plumbed, power steering cooler plumbed, transfer case linkage made. Picked up a set of r.e. adjustable uppers too. Still got lots to do if I want to make the Chinaman trip.
Actually going back together! Trans cooler plumbed, power steering cooler plumbed, transfer case linkage made. Picked up a set of r.e. adjustable uppers too. Still got lots to do if I want to make the Chinaman trip.
Re: The Colorado BS thread
What Chinman trip ?
Actually going back together! Trans cooler plumbed, power steering cooler plumbed, transfer case linkage made. Picked up a set of r.e. adjustable uppers too. Still got lots to do if I want to make the Chinaman trip.
What Chinman trip ?
