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aw4 help!! no reverse, no neutral,feels like its loading in park???

scullyxscully said:
#1 solenoid gets 10 volts continuosly
#2 solenoid gets 6 volts cont.
unplugged nss same.
c8(1-2gear input) and c9(drive gear input) inputting about 1.5 volts continuosly
now unplugged tcu(tcm)
and removed battery cable
checked for continuity between these-
C14(solenoid3)C15(solenoid2)C16(solenoid3) to all pins.
C14 showed 8ohms to C3(trans output speed sensor),
8ohms to D7(ground)
8ohms to D14(fused +)
8ohms to D16(fused +)
C15 and C16 showed 0 ohms at these.
pulled fuse at tcu.
same except, showed o ohms at d16 now
pulled tranny fuse at fuse box, same, had 8 ohms between C14 to C3,D7,D14, and D16
no other point had anything on the meter other than 0.
Click to expand...


OK so Sol 3 (c14) was the only one the had anything going to other pins... C15 and 16 showed 0 ohms...Ok now you say 0 ohms...that means the is continuity on the wires... what does your meter say when the leds are not connected to anything? as for the ground... I would check that from the pin to the frame/ ground point on the body.
 
The TCM grounds through the tranny, too, I think. Where's 5-90 and lawsoncl at? Thems some geniuses right thar. I know when I was working on my problem, I checked every 15 minutes waiting for them to post :D

scullyxscully said:
now that i know i have power on pins C8(1-2 drive gear input) and C9(drive gear input)
heres my question-
knowing that the arm on the side of the tranny tells it mechanically what gear to be in,
where does it tell which solenoid to fire? ie; where is the 1-2 gear input(C8) and drive gear input(C9) get the info from ? internally in the tranny? or externally, like the shifter display?(or somewhere between)?
Click to expand...

Well, when you unplug the TCM you are still able to shift using the gear selector. This isolates the TCM from the tranny so it has no part in what it does.

I'm not sure where C8 and C9 get their data from. I'd think it would be the gear selector or somewhere in between. I'm not real sure.

Think about the pin for the brake. 0V when not pushed and 12V when pushed. Probably the same thing happened when you manually select gears (1-2,3,D).

Are you positive all your wiring is in good shape? Have you traced your wiring down the firewall and over your tranny to make sure?

DownhomeMoto said:
OK so Sol 3 (c14) was the only one the had anything going to other pins... C15 and 16 showed 0 ohms...Ok now you say 0 ohms...that means the is continuity on the wires... what does your meter say when the leds are not connected to anything? as for the ground... I would check that from the pin to the frame/ ground point on the body.
Click to expand...

A good way you may be able to verify your meter is reading correctly (and your meter isn't broke) is this:
1. Take a reading on the battery + and -. Make sure you read correct battery voltage.

2. If your meter cables are long enough, test the BATT+ to the HARNESS-. If your reading is the same, your ground should be fine. If it's off, then your ground is FUBAR.

I used this method randomly throughout my troubleshooting process just to make sure it was all working right.
 
Last edited:
"Think about the pin for the brake. 0V when not pushed and 12V when pushed. Probably the same thing happened when you manually select gears (1-2,3,D)."

thats what i think, too. something sending when its not supposed to be.

"A good way you may be able to verify your meter is reading correctly (and your meter isn't broke) is this:
1. Take a reading on the battery + and -. Make sure you read correct battery voltage.

2. If your meter cables are long enough, test the BATT+ to the HARNESS-. If your reading is the same, your ground should be fine. If it's off, then your ground is FUBAR."
ill check that too. thanks!!!


"Are you positive all your wiring is in good shape? Have you traced your wiring down the firewall and over your tranny to make sure?"

ill doublecheck.
 
scullyxscully said:
"Think about the pin for the brake. 0V when not pushed and 12V when pushed. Probably the same thing happened when you manually select gears (1-2,3,D)."

thats what i think, too. something sending when its not supposed to be.

"A good way you may be able to verify your meter is reading correctly (and your meter isn't broke) is this:
1. Take a reading on the battery + and -. Make sure you read correct battery voltage.

2. If your meter cables are long enough, test the BATT+ to the HARNESS-. If your reading is the same, your ground should be fine. If it's off, then your ground is FUBAR."
ill check that too. thanks!!!


"Are you positive all your wiring is in good shape? Have you traced your wiring down the firewall and over your tranny to make sure?"

ill doublecheck.
Click to expand...

Did you probe the solenoid wires at the connector against the firewall? This can rule out wiring problems between the firewall and the TCM.

There should be a connector somewhere for the gear selector to the TCM too. You should find that wiring and make sure it's in good condition. You could even try backprobing that connector if you can find it.
 
Ive been busy with work and the wife the past few days. Im hoping to work on it sunday night and try to wrap this up.
I intend to recheck pretty much everything, since it was kind of rushed,to see if i missed anything.
then ill check the linkage again, and maybe open the dash to see if i can at least line up the indicator.
if all else fails, im going to put a toggle set up to switch the solenoids, until i can chase down the problem.
by the way.... im in RED now!!!!
 
Understand about being life/woman busy.

Good idea on rechecking everything. It may just be a little something that got overlooked. I plan on rechecking all of my stuff too; you've inspired me. It's hard to believe I have all bad solenoids and/or two bad TCMs.

How's it feel to be red?
 
Yeah its been busy, but i got my taxes back, so now i can get a few things for the xj now, like my shims and t.c. drop.

That is pretty rare to have 3 bad solenoids or even to, without a direct short on them.
They are built pretty tough and don't have to do much, except open and close.
I would imagine you might have something going on simular to me.
Recheck your power input on the harness itself. that will let you know if its before the TCM at least.


and red is niiice!!! i need to see if i can get two, the mj needs one too!
 
Yeah, I'll be getting my taxes back the end of this month. Plus, we might be getting a "bonus" at work (that we shoulda gotten like 12 months ago). We'll see how much that adds up to. Maybe enough to fix more on the Jeep.

All the wiring looks good; no breaks or messed up insulation. I'm going to recheck all the connectors and such, but the wiring at the TCM was getting power in. Meh, I don't know. Tomorrow is supposed to be nice though.
 
Yeah, there should be two 12V sources. One is always hot. One is hot only when the ignition is on (I think).
 
Hmm. I'll have to check mine for constant power. I've only checked with the ign on.
I have power constantly on the 1/2 input and speed sensor, i believe.
But ill recheck that again.
 
lol. Better than mine!
IMG_3319.jpg

IMG_3322.jpg
 
Here is a question I have.

On the 32 plug harness for the tcu, C8 is 1-2 position. Does this receive signal from the gear selector switch located behind the dash?
I'm going to find out in a little while when i tear into it.
Remember i have the column shifter also, so it should be behind the dash, hopefully.

Im pretty sure its not receiving from the nss in any case.
Ive tried but i cant find a decent wiring diagram that shows all the pathways.
Let's see what happens...
at any rate, the pan is going back on and a couple toggles are going in, so i can at leatst move it around the driveway...snows a comin'
 
Ok, heres some new info.

With the key OFF and ON, i had
.1 volts on C4
.75 volts on C15 (solenoid#2)
.75 volts on C16 (solenoid#1)


and then with the ign on,

nss plugged in nss not plugged in

12 volts on C8(1-2gear selector switch) in 1/2 .75 volts on C8 in 1/2
12 volts on C9(lever in D) in 3 .75 volts on C9 in 3


which pretty much means something is not cutting input power to the tcu.
Are the 1/2 and Drive selector built into the nss?Or are there seperate inputs?
if it is just the nss sending input signal, simply removing the c8 and c9 wires and routing new ones should fix
the problem, since the nss definitely powers to 12 volts on 1/2 and drive.

Or could it be a simple ignition problem not cutting power?
:peace:
 
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