aw4 help!! no reverse, no neutral,feels like its loading in park???

[scully]

ok- came across this info-
if i understand correctly, both solenoids off=4th
reverse needs #1 to fire in order to produce reverse.
and neutral needs #1 to fire to produce neutral.
if ONLY #2 were firing, i would at least have 3rd.which i do.
and #3 solenoid ONLY controls torque conv.
sooooo, it stands to reason my #1 solenoid is not functioning?
Position Solenoid


"D" (Drive) #1 solenoid #2 solenoid
1st Gear .................. ON .................... OFF
2nd Gear .................. ON ..................... ON
3rd Gear .................. OFF .................... ON
4th Gear .................. OFF ................... OFF


"3"
1st Gear .................. ON .................... OFF
2nd Gear .................. ON ..................... ON
3rd Gear .................. OFF .................... ON


"1-2"
1st Gear .................. ON .................... OFF
2nd Gear .................. ON ..................... ON


"R" (Reverse) .............. ON .................... OFF


"N" Or "P" ................. ON .................... OFF


(1) - Valve body contains 3 valve body solenoids. See
Fig. 2. No. 1 and 2 valve body solenoids are used
for controlling transmission shifts. No. 3 valve
body solenoid is used for torque converter
lock-up only.

 

[scully]

The solenoids act on the valve body.

makes sense now. i get how they work to shift, but if #1 is out, will that produce these results?

if #1 is not firing, park wont fully engage and "holds the engine from reving, correct? producing a condition where it trans brakes itself?
and the same would happen in neutral, right?
:huh:

 

[lawsoncl]

The solenoids should not affect reverse, neutral, or park at all. In fact the first test in the FSM is to pull the trans fuse and shift manually. With no fuse (and both solenoids off), Park, Neutral, Reverse should be normal, (D) should be 4th, (3) should be 3rd, and (1-2) should be first gear.

You have a linkage or valve body problem.

 

[scully]

The solenoids should not affect reverse, neutral, or park at all. In fact the first test in the FSM is to pull the trans fuse and shift manually. With no fuse (and both solenoids off), Park, Neutral, Reverse should be normal, (D) should be 4th, (3) should be 3rd, and (1-2) should be first gear.

You have a linkage or valve body problem.

now with the linkage, ive popped off the conecting arm and shifted thrue the gears, and it produced the same results.
ill try to search valve body replacement, but i gotta run some errands.
is it time consuming? iirc it just a matter of dropping the pan and unbolting?
i have the same year xj with the aw4, so parts are available.
and i have ice melt on the driveway, so itll be clear when i come back:roflmao:

 

[DownhomeMoto]

Did you check the Ohms on the solenoids? They should give you about 13 ohms... if they are ohming good I would set up a set of switches and switch the solenoids manualy. I'm betting that you have a solenoid that is stuck open. That would let line pressure go were you don't want it. Like reverse and say 2nd at the same time. This would also give you that lock up feeling...Let us know!


The best way to sum up how the three solenoids work is...

 

[DownhomeMoto]

Well I posted a reply but it's not here so I'll do it agian....

Have you checked the solenoids out yet? You can do this by Ohmming them out, they should be around 13 ohms. I willing to bet your #2 solenoid is stuck open. Here is why...

You said that it will bog/rev to only 2k in park/neutral and reverse and not move. Well if the #2 is stuck open then it would be appling line pressure to both the P/N/R part of you valve body and as well as a FWD 3rd gear protaion of your vavle body. These would cause the trans to fight itself and bog the trans/motor. Since you also said that it will not move in 1-2 but will in 3 that also leads me to think it the #2 is stuck open. When you are/try to start into first gear you should have only soleniod #1 open, but since #2 is stuck open then the trans never goes it to 1st. Instead it starts in 2nd with both soleniods open. Then it shifts to third when soleniod #1 closes. I'd, also bet that it will not shift in to OD since the #2 soleniod will not close. So to me I think you find out why the #2 soleniod is not working and then you find your problem. Let us know... DH

 

[scully]

thats what i kinda figured was going on....
im going outside now to go wrench on it.
im gonna pop off the pan and see how the solenoid is.
thanks for the push in the right direction!!!!
this is my first fiasco with the aw4(or any auto,for that matter)
so im learning everything as i go.
so thanks everyone thats helped so far and ill put up my results in a little bit...:wave1:

 

[scully]

oh one more thing.... are the solenoids n/o or n/c?
doesnt matter too much, just wondering.. ill be back in a bit....

 

[scully]

ok popped off the pan and...
stupid dipstick. :doh:its frozen together where it joined. and i cant get the bolt loose holding the said stupid dipstick to the tranny.
ill get it after work tomorrow.
also, when i drained the fluid, it was very burnt.so i hope there is no further damage other than that solenoid. ill post up after i finish tom evening on my findings.

 

[bigalpha]

You can test the Ohm-age of the solenoid directly. One probe on the solenoid body and one to a ground. Should still read ~13 Ohms.

Also, if you pull it out, apply 12V power to it and see if it even works; you should hear it clicking every time you apply power to it.

You should be able to get to the solenoids pretty easy.

 

[scully]

cool. ill try that tomorrow. i would tonite but its getting late and the driveway is mighty cold and dark right now. im sure ill get it tomorrow.
thanks again everyone for your ideas and help.:: rocks.

 

[bigalpha]

There was a thread floating around somewhere that a guy had to replace his solenoids and he had taken some pics.

Not sure where it's at right now, since I didn't bookmark it.

If you find it, post the link.

 

[DownhomeMoto]

keep us up dated... as far as what i have read the AW4 is a damn good auto. Most of it's problems come from the TCU. I have done alot of searching and I'm working on building a triptronic controller for it. This would give you a full manual auto. Anyways keep us informed.

As for the soleniods... I would think they are N/C

 

[scully]

well, its about 4 degrees here with the wind chill, so i think im gonna wait till tomorrow morning to finish that up.
ill be researching tonite i guess.
the xj started to run really hot on the highway today. actually went into the red.and it was about 15 degrees out too.
sooo, ill search that up in the meantime.
*and it never never gets hot, so its odd.
search time!!!

 

[scully]

ok ok . just pulled the # 2 solenoid, and it works. applied 12v and blew thrue it. it flows/locks up fine.
ohm tested the other 2, they were fine.
now heres the weird part.
power is constantly on #2 solenoid, as well as #1.
meaning- when in park, #2 is powered up.
and when in drive, #2 is powered up.and #1 is powered also.
????? gonna pull the tcu and check my results again....

 

[scully]

checked 1-2 solenoids from park all the way to 1-2.
all produce power to the solenoids 1 +2.
hmmmmm

 

[scully]

and no power to them when i disconnect tcu, and tcu fuse

 

[scully]

where to go..... well ill go poke around and check back in a minute

 

[bigalpha]

Sounds like you need to investigate this issue:

and no power to them when i disconnect tcu, and tcu fuse

ok. just finished with the harness testing.
every thing checked out, EXCEPT
c9 position read no voltage when in drive, only read voltage in 2/3
and im still trying to figure out why it seems to be under load in park, and wont rev freely, only to about 2 grand or so.(no tach)
im thinking its all related to some kind of component failure after the tcu.
if one solenoid fails, do they all default? are they in line?
:dunno:

 

[joe_peters]

1 and 2 on says you are in D/2nd or 3/2nd or 1-2/2nd.