at05gt Introduction

[TroopThrowbackt]

Whats the easiest way to reinforce the trackbar mount on a Dana 30? I tightened the trackbar bolts up the other day, and without the flag nut for the axle side I'm having difficulty getting a wrench on the backside to tighten it further. Just don't want problems down the road.

Do the drill out 1/2" bolt upgrade. If you can't find a flag nut or make one I used a grade 8 nylock and jammed a screwdriver against the flat and used my air impact to drive it tight. No fuss, no muss.


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[blondejoncherokee]

be creative. A big flat blade will hold a loose nut solid if you hammer it in there between the nut and mount. or just weld a piece of metal to a all metal jam nut to make your own flag nut. its pretty straight forward. you can also buy that rustys trackbar mount and weld it on, but dont do it yourself I've seen your welds.

 

[at05gt]

That was with an arc welder and it was my first time. I'm a little better now, but wouldn't trust myself with something that technical.

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[clydefrog]

A screwdriver and an impact work ok for the track bar bolt (thats what I used). Or you can buy this:

https://www.claytonoffroad.com/tjljxjzj_hd_track_bar_bolt_kit

Comes with a proper rated bolt as well.

 

[at05gt]

Thanks to Phil I got hold of a set of stock leaves, cut the eyes off with a grinder and reassembled my packs with double mains. Was afraid it was gonna be too stiff and bouncey, but blondejon gave me some information about it and it turned out great. It barely added any stiffness at all, I can feel it in the butt dyno but it's barley noticeable. If anything its made the jeep feel a little more stable. The procedure raised the rear about half an inch, which should be fine and increase my gear hauling ability as well.

Also took another look at my axle side track bar bolt, it seems to be doing fine since last time I hit it with the impact.

I'll post up some pics of the reconfigured leaf packs and the left over metal carnage from the hack job lol.

 

[at05gt]

So I have been searching and searching and I'm having trouble locating the exact information I need.

My 91 has factory keyless with the IR bubble in the ohc. I have never had any key fobs and new ones are 100 with programming.

I purchased, after reading a ton of reviews an avital 2101L keyless entry alarm. It's made by DEI so it's basically a Viper alarm with a different name. I have the wiring diagram for it and a listing of wires that correspond on my jeep and their locations. My issue is how do I wire the door locks? The module has 3 leads for lock and 3 for unlock. I've read that the Cherokee is a 5 wire system, and this alarm has the relays built in, still can't figure out what gets wired where. Anybody done this before?

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[at05gt]

So I unbolted and removed my sway bar completely for the Niagara Rim run on Sunday. I did not reinstall it for the drive home, barely noticed that it was not there, the Jeep has very little extra body roll even at highway speeds. I'm gonna run without it for awhile and see if it makes a difference.

 

[moparmansfield]

So I unbolted and removed my sway bar completely for the Niagara Rim run on Sunday. I did not reinstall it for the drive home, barely noticed that it was not there, the Jeep has very little extra body roll even at highway speeds. I'm gonna run without it for awhile and see if it makes a difference.

I haven't had a sway bar on for about 6 months. My shocks are pretty damm stiff so it works out. You just gotta pay more attention when on the highway.

 

[TroopThrowbackt]

Unloaded mine rides fine, 4" lift on 32" tires. It's when I'm loaded down that body sway on pavement is noticeable and significant.


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[Rob D]

I'm still using my original, tiny little fob. The one you have will be much better, if it's rf instead of ir. With the ir you have to point the transmitter lens (fob side) directly at the receiver bubble in the car. If they don't have a line of sight to each other they don't work. Also, just in case you don't already know (sorry to mention it if you do), if you have the keyless you should have the factory alarm. If that is triggered it disables the ignition. Anyway, good luck with the install.

So I have been searching and searching and I'm having trouble locating the exact information I need.

My 91 has factory keyless with the IR bubble in the ohc. I have never had any key fobs and new ones are 100 with programming.

I purchased, after reading a ton of reviews an avital 2101L keyless entry alarm. It's made by DEI so it's basically a Viper alarm with a different name. I have the wiring diagram for it and a listing of wires that correspond on my jeep and their locations. My issue is how do I wire the door locks? The module has 3 leads for lock and 3 for unlock. I've read that the Cherokee is a 5 wire system, and this alarm has the relays built in, still can't figure out what gets wired where. Anybody done this before?

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[at05gt]

I'm still using my original, tiny little fob. The one you have will be much better, if it's rf instead of ir. With the ir you have to point the transmitter lens (fob side) directly at the receiver bubble in the car. If they don't have a line of sight to each other they don't work. Also, just in case you don't already know (sorry to mention it if you do), if you have the keyless you should have the factory alarm. If that is triggered it disables the ignition. Anyway, good luck with the install.

Ya the alarm I bought has an output for factory alarm disable and it gets spliced into a wire in the drivers kick panel.

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[at05gt]

Got a bunch of stuff done yesterday:

Did brake pads and shoes all around, I hate drum brakes with a passion and will be changing to rear pads when I change rear axles - Fixed brake squeal

Finished getting my 2 door folding seats installed, had 2 broken bottom seat pans, swapped em around and ended up using the old passenger seat pan as my drivers just unbolted and peeled off the leather and the pans themselves are the same part number - no more saggy drivers seat

Finally tracked down my coolant leak to the heater control valve (piece of shit), replaced it - no more slow drip of coolant down the engine bay

Installed the lower control arms I bought off a buddy, was able to remove all 3 1/8 shims I had fabbed previously for my caster issues because the new arms where about 16-1/8" E2E, pulled them apart and regreased the bushings - no more floppy stock arms

Still need to track down my oil leak, its either the oil pressure sender, the drain plug, or the new o-rings I put in my filter adapter have already failed

I'll be replacing the sender once I can source a decently priced replacement

As to the drain plug, trying to find alternatives to the standard drain plug, on my old GTI I had replaced it with a magnetic head drain plug to catch metal filings, or one of those EZ drain valve setups that have an inner core/cap that you remove without removing the actual plug

Really don't want to pull the filter adapter apart again to check the o-rings, a visual inspection shows no oil drips around the base or head of the filter adapter so that leads me to believe its one of the other 2 culprits.

Discovered a fun new problem on my way to work, speedometer did not work for about the first 3 minutes of my drive, stopped at the gas station to grab a drink before work and when I drove off it was working, however it feels like its sluggish. I.E. it takes awhile to get up to 30-35 and then after that it looks like its tracking normally. A new speed sensor is 30 bucks and everything I'm reading says just replace it, but I really don't wanna throw anymore money at the Jeep right now.

 

[GordoSmasho]

Rock auto will be the cheapest place to get sensors usually. For things that are non engine management i usually go there and get the cheapest one i can find.

 

[at05gt]

It will cost me exactly the same if I get them at oreillys vs rockauto and shipping, and I can get them today.

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[smokinu]

I'm pretty sure I paid like 35 bucks for my oil pressure sending unit at vato zone

 

[at05gt]

I got it for 20 at oreillys, speed sensor was 32. Works great now, the old sender must have been shot, cause my pressure is 10 psi higher than it used to be, and my speedo no longer jumps around.

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[at05gt]

Wow I have not updated in awhile, last one was the day before I got laid off from my previous job. Had some issue with some popping/clunking in turns, tracked it down to the trackbar mounts. Reinforced the axle side with a new 3/16th plate and tightened and locktited the frame side mount bolts.

Added an IRO steering box plate and spacer, and fabbed up a plate for the passenger side to match. Rebuilt my bumper mounts and replaced all the hardware with metric 10.6 (about the same as grade 8). Scored a factory front skid from pnp, straightened, painted it and installed it.

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[clydefrog]

Reinforced the axle side with a new 3/16th plate and tightened and locktited the frame side mount bolts.

Pics? I want to do this but want to see how others have gone about it. Thanks!

 

[at05gt]

Just drill the right size hole in a piece that's a bit bigger then the trackbar bracket, bolt it in place and then trace the back side with a marker and cut it off about 1/8th inch short on the open sides. Then just bolt it up without the track bar and stitch it on.

You'll have to make a square cut out on the top passenger side of the plate cause there is a reinforced section on that corner of the stock bracket. Mine has maybe 3-4 inches of total weld all the way around.

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