A Humboldt-Cherokee Blog.

Can you use a 4" cutting wheel to cut the bolt flush with the unibody, then drill out the bad bolt? If you use a slightly larger bit, you may be able to drill it out and re-install the stop with a larger bolt. I'd need a photo. I'll head outside and take a look at one of the Jeeps in my driveway.

Edit: I took a few photos but it is dark and I'm afraid of the dark. There's crazy things crawling around in the dark and I don't like it. So, let's see if this is what you are talking about...

First photo is of the Frog. Is this the bolt you are referring to?

ry%3D400


Here's the Green Machine (below). It clearly shows the head of the bolt. Assuming you have already removed the bump stop, I suggest using a punch and BFH to defeat the welded nutplate inside the unibody. If that does not work, then cut the stud flat with a cutting wheel and use a larger bit to drill out the bolt until if gives.

ry%3D400


Next, install a larger nutzert and use the larger size bolt to hold the new bumpstop in place.

If that is BS, then use a step drill to open the side of the unibody so you can feed a nut on top of the new bolt. I just did something similar this weekend to fix my crossmember bolt.
 
Last edited:
Gearing is awesome. I have so much more power. Getting up to speed is practically effortless. I'm not too sure what it'll be like with 31s but you're definitely gonna have a LOT of torque. Unfortunately my speedo is so off it's hopeless
 
Yeah, that's the bolt. I already tried to drill it out, but it's screwed.

Finally some updates.
My new Towbar, going to be used for just long distance, low speed flat towing. (No windy roads) We are going to tow it to the beginning of highway 4, and then drive it the rest of the way to sierra fest. Good to have if anything breaks.
IMG00031-20100511-1030.jpg

Warrior adapter brackets.
IMG00032-20100511-1030.jpg


I rebuilt my GENII sway bar discos, new hiems and bushings. They no longer clunk.
IMG00035-20100511-1536.jpg
 
In my experience, if you break something its typically something that will need to be replaced if you are flat towing. I also had a friend who used to flat tow his CJ5 with a late model 4runner and it was sketchy at best.

Dont mean to be Debby Downer, but I think you are better off driving to SierraFest.
 
Nice work on the RMS. Mine has a slight leak, but it is not dripping, per se. It might actually be coming from the valve cover, which is my next seal to replace. Again, nice job even though it took you a month to finish :)
 
Hahahaha. NOT. :) It only took a full week! And yeah, my valve cover gasket was replaced in december 07. I contribute the lack of leak also to the 10w40 high mileage mobil 1 oil, with a nice dosage of Lucas oil stabilizer.
 
sean, did you make some spacers to mount the tow bar with?
my tow bar uses 1/2" pins & my bumper has 1" holes, so i turned some spacers up in my lathe to keep things kosher.
 
Finished my new tie rod. 1.5" OD DOM tubing.
ZJ.
IMG00043-20100512-1630.jpg

New ends.
IMG00046-20100512-1657.jpg


Look at the difference!
IMG00047-20100512-1703.jpg


Install
IMG00044-20100512-1655.jpg


Installed
IMG00048-20100512-1816.jpg
 
No, I didn't. No welder.:( I had a place in Arcata weld it for 12 bucks, and luckily the threads didn't distort.

DOM came from allied steel in Belmont near you, (off of old county)
Thread inserts and jam nuts came from Ruff Stuff, TRE's from Kragen.

I elected not to go moog, because the moog parts are 108 bucks out the door, even with my 20 percent discount. These master pro parts have a lifetime warranty, and they were 38 bucks out the door. I might get a set of spares.
 
Back
Top