You are really pushing stock axles on 35s. Aside from that as long as u take into consideration drive line angles, steering angles, track bar and sye you should be ok. No need to be that tall though.
I had thoughts of 4" and 35's.. 6.5" is way overkill for almost anything that involves rock crawling... I'll prolly end up going 33's but i still want a car trailer for transporting it to the trail.
mostly about the unibody not being able to handle it.
I would rather do 4.5 and 35's. If i go with those napier flares, would need bump stops at 4.5 lift?
mostly about the unibody not being able to handle it.
I would rather do 4.5 and 35's. If i go with those napier flares, would need bump stops at 4.5 lift?
Agreed with above. There is not a lift height I know of that is especially bad for the unibody. It is the hard wheeling and flexing that is usually the death of them...or the tweaking of them anyway. And that is over time.
I didn't run one for a while because the bushing eye on it was shot... No ill effects. However one bored afternoon I drilled it out and fitted a large bolt, and I do enjoy the tighter steering feel.
Uhh the stabilizer is not imbetween the wheel and the balljoint/ steering ends, the shock from the wheels goes right to the balljoints and sterring ends before the stabilizer but if you want the false felling of a tight steering then go for it
before going to a taller lift, i would reeeeeally recommend investing in frame stiffeners. will work for stock to 1ft of lift. probably the best investment i've made yet.
Uhh the stabilizer is not imbetween the wheel and the balljoint/ steering ends, the shock from the wheels goes right to the balljoints and sterring ends before the stabilizer but if you want the false felling of a tight steering then go for it
theres no issues going to 6.5 and 35" tires without doing stiffeners and steering/braking upgrades all at once.
just know that soon enough youll need inner/outer/cross steering bracing and stronger than stock steering if you plan on locking the front. Frame stiffeners down the road. front bumper that ties back into the frame very well.
you dont have to do it all at once, today, you just need to know youll eventually do it if you actually plan on wheeling your rig alot.
I just dont understand why you wouldnt go 5" rear(3.5" leaves and 1.5" shackles) and 5.5"(or 4.5" i ran those forever with 35s) RE coils up front with the 35s instead of the full 6.5" lift.
also do Full circle 760s up front(buy chromos or grind away some ABS shafts, LCA skids, plate pass side UCA, bumpstop , cut fenders like you dont care, .
I would not waste a 1$ on flares. at worst, get some cheapo TJ or YJ flares for 20$ if you really want something.
Uhh the stabilizer is not imbetween the wheel and the balljoint/ steering ends, the shock from the wheels goes right to the balljoints and sterring ends before the stabilizer but if you want the false felling of a tight steering then go for it
