5.9 V-8 Magnum swap

Here is the dodge pin-outs

1. SPEED CONTROL VENT SOLENOID CONTROL
2. SPEED CONTROL SUPPLY

3. FUSED B(+)
 * TO PCM MODULE C1
4. AUTOMATIC SHUTDOWN RELAY OUTPUT

7. BATTERY TEMPERATURE SENSOR SIGNAL
8. BACK-UP LAMP FEED (Return from C130 pin 12)


11. BRAKE SWITCH SENSE
12. FUSED IGNITION SWITCH OUTPUT (RUN) *TO PARK/NEUTRAL POSITION SWITCH
13. CCD BUS (+)
14. AUTOMATIC SHUTDOWN RELAY CONTROL
15. A/C COMPRESSOR CLUTCH RELAY CONTROL
16. SCI RECEIVE
17. CCD BUS (-)
18. SENSOR GROUND
19. A/C SELECT INPUT
20. SCI TRANSMIT
21. A/C COMPRESSOR CLUTCH RELAY OUTPUT
22. SPEED CONTROL SWITCH SIGNAL
23. FUEL LEVEL SENSOR SIGNAL
24. SPEED CONTROL VACUUM SOLENOID CONTROL

26. PARK/NEUTRAL POSITION SENSE SWITCH (to PCM C1 6)

27. FUEL PUMP RELAY CONTROL
28. FUSED IGNITION SWITCH OUTPUT (RUN-START) *PCM C1
29. TRANSMISSION CONTROL RELAY CONTROL
30. OXYGEN SENSOR DOWNSTREAM SENSOR OUTPUT
31. TRANSMISSION CONTROL RELAY OUTPUT

33. VEHICLE SPEED SENSOR SIGNAL
34. OVERDRIVE OFF SWITCH SENSE

35. GENERATOR SOURCE
Need to run to trans relay as well

36. LEAK DETECTION PUMP SOLENOID CONTROL
37. LEAK DETECTION PUMP SWITCH SENSE

39. GROUND

41. OXYGEN SENSOR DOWNSTREAM RELAY CONTROL
42. EVAPORATIVE EMISSION SOLENOID CONTROL
43. FUSED OXYGEN SENSOR UPSTREAM RELAY OUTPUT Power to the sensors Dodge PDC doesn’t use an upstream relay. So once wired to jeep relay ground the relay control (C3 Pin 8)
 
The OBD-I and II are totally different animals. If you have a pre 96 it is a lot easier to wire in the OBD-I engine and ECU. If you have a 96+ you are going to want a 96+ donor. If not you will have to change every sensor, injector and ECU. Then you may even have canbus issues because the TCM is missing.
 
Jeep pin out:

1. C3 PIN 5 - V35 18LG/RD
2. C3 PIN 11 - V32 18YL/RD
3. C107 PIN 14 - A61 14DG/BK
4. C3 PIN 12 – F142 18DG/WT

7. C3 PIN 15 – K118 18PK/YL
8. TRS PIN 6 L10 BR/LG


11. C3 PIN 24 – K29 18WT/PK
12. TRS PIN 3 F20 18WT
13. C3 PIN 30 - D1 18VT/BR
14. C3 PIN 3 - K51 18DB/YL
15. C3 PIN 1 - C13 18DB/OR
16. C3 PIN 29 – D20 18LG/BK
17. C3 PIN 28 – D2 18WT/BL
18. C107 PIN 3 – K167 20BR/YL
19. C3 PIN 23 – C90 18LG
20. C3 PIN 27 – D21 18PK
21. C108 PIN 4 – C3 16DB/BK
22. C3 PIN 32 - V37 18RD/LG
23. C3 PIN 26 – K226 18DB/LG
24. C3 PIN 4 – V36 18TN/RD

26. C107 PIN 5 – T41 18BK/WT


27. C3 PIN 19 – K31 18BR
28. C107 PIN 10 - F12 18DB/WT
29. WIRE TO A TRANS RELAY
30. C107 PIN 13 - A242 20VT/OR
31. WIRE TO A TRANS RELAY

33. C107 PIN 4 – G7 20WT/OR
34. RUN TO INSIDE SWITCH, then switch TO GRND
35. C3 PIN 25 – K72 DG/OR
NEED TO WIRE GENERATOR SOURCE TO TRANS RELAY AS WELL. Splice here or get from C108
36. C3 PIN 10 - K106 18WT/DG
37. C3 PIN 14 - K105 18WT/OR

39. C107 PIN 9 - Z12 18BK/TN

41. C3 PIN 9 - K74 18BR/VT
42. C3 PIN 20 – K52 18PK/BK
43. C107 PIN 7 – A42 18DG
 
My XJ uses a transmission control module which I disconnected. I wired in a relay for the trans as well as wired in a relay to make the electric fans come on when A/C is turned on. I also wired in an Overdrive switch which I sourced on ebay. The switch is for a ford explorer, but any switch can be used it is simply wired from the dodge harness pin 34 wire to the switch and then from other side of switch to ground.
 
So here is how she sits right now:



I still need to deal with:
Hood clearance
A/C lines (I have everything to do them, just route them different and I may be able to close the hood.
Exhaust and O2 sensors (long arm first, will install tomorrow)
Front and rear driveshaft
Radiator hoses (running to parts store now)and obviously antifreeze
 
I can't win! Everything just creates more work. So cooling system is done. Just have a small leak from heater core tube from the water pump. I will throw some RTV on that. Had to replace the front right brake line. It was rusty anyway, but moving it around when I put the motor in caused a crack and leak. So got that done. I trimmed the framing on the hood and got the hood to close. Then, I put the longarm brackets and crossmember on and of course it lowered the transfer case about 2 inches. Of course that caused the front of the motor to come up a little and now the hood will close, but with alot of force which means its touching the accessories on the motor. No I need to work on the transmission mount again to raise it back up.
 
Taller trans mount? If possible? Spacer?
 
Well the shitty part is I modified the dodge plate on the transmission and took an inch out of it to make it the same height as the jeep plate. Would have been perfect if I didn't take that inch out. I mentioned it before, do the long arm before the engine swap! I will take the plate out and raise it an inch in the next couple of days.
 
So I modified the transmission crossmember. Was actually better that way. Because my whole set up is 2 1/4 inches forward of the original location. I extended the front of my crossmember with a butt weld and flat plate (not the strongest setup). So now I used 1 inch bar stock to raise the crossmember mount and welded a plate on top of that kind of like gussets so now much stronger. I just drilled out the lower holes so the socket would fit through. Long arm is now installed. Have a little more grinding to do on the original control arm mounts, but the exhaust can now be routed. You can see in the earlier pictures that the upper control arm mount on the frame takes up significant amount of room right where I need to run the exhaust. Not much left now!
 
that exhaust is going to be interesting to route through there. Looking great.
 
looking good. I had the same problem with the exhaust-- 5 years later my ds downpipe is crushed, I'm going this weekend to have it done by a better shop.
 
Broke down and ordered a rear driveshaft. I could have worked mine, but have to run out of town and it will be here when I get back, front should be fine, but need to install. Only big job left is exhaust until she is back on the road. There is a handful of small items, but all of those should only take me a day or so. I have everything to make the A/C work too!
 
Also used some playdoh to measure hood clearance. It is close 1/4 inch in some areas, but shouldn't have to do anything and will run it as is. Once I get a sense of underwood temps, may louver or vent, but will see.
 
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