5.3L Vortec V8 Conversion

[1991Jeep_Man]

Another question... I know I'm probably getting annoying, but Frank what did you use to make your exhaust? Since I'm using an LT1, I want to squeez as much HP and TQ out of the engine with basic bolt ons rather than tear into the engine. By the looks of it, you used mandrel bent pipe sections. Kinda like what JCWhitney sells. Am I correct?

 

[Frank Z]

Yes, that's what I used.

 

[Frank Z]

Installing my recently modified LM7 truck oil pan.

Wayne at C-fab in Falcon did the tig welding for me.

I cut about 1.5" out og the center of the sump.
Thia pan replaces the current CTS-V pan. The sump on that one is just to stinkin' long.
I've got to shorten the pick-up tube before the pan goes back on.

 

[O-Gauge Steamer]

Nice Welds. I have added his site to my list of places worth looking at. I mean, if you take something there to be welded...

 

[John D]

Nice. When you take the CTS-V pan off can you do a side-by-side pic?

 

[1991Jeep_Man]

Did you get a new LM7 pan? Or was the original one that someone had fubar salavaged?

 

[Frank Z]

I tried using a shortened truck pan once before but the "Tig Expert" I took the pan to totally butchered it.

I ended up cutting about 1" off the oil pick-up tube and rewelding the screen back on.

 

[1991Jeep_Man]

Hey Frank,

I just had another quick question for you, and if I am seeming annoying, please forgive. But, I figured you would be the best person to ask. As I have mentioned before, my '91 XJ would be a DD (especially during winter) and occasional trail rider. I have to opportunity to get a Vortec 5.7/4l60e/np231c from a 98 Tahoe. Aside from the bashing of nearly everyone I ask (mostly from Stroker motor hump buddies) about not building a stroker instead, another point was how long my XJ would be out of commision. I would prepare for my swap accordingly, with all mounts, gauges, hardware, etc in a garage ready to install (based mostly off of what all your swap involved. I am very grateful). If I had everything on hand, how long do you think the swap would take? I am fine with a couple months of down time, because I would start in spring and not desperately need the XJ back in action til the colder months. Only reason I ask is a lot of guys are trying to tell me I'm looking at a full year or more of down time. I told them they were wrong. I appreciate your advice and feedback.

Thanks.

 

[Frank Z]

Assuming good mechanical aptitude and absolutely all parts on hand...

Theoretically it could be done in a couple weeks.
Real world...

Figure a month.

 

[Jeff 98XJ WI]

As for an exhaust manifold, I wonder how these stainless jobs would fit? Something new I saw in the Speedway motors catalog. As you know, I used center dump early corvette stamped steel manifolds modified to fit...and no, the thing isn't operational yet!

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Tru-R...old-Polished,53711.html?parentDisplayId=53710

Tru-Ram® Exhaust Manifolds allow you to enjoy the look of factory LS style manifolds, without the hassle of dealing with unsightly rust and corrosion. Investment cast from durable stainless steel material, these exhaust manifolds will be a low maintenance, high-performance addition to any LS-powered vehicle. Features a fully polished, show quality finish.

Tucked-in shape hugs block contour
Smooth internal transitions perform like shorty headers
Collector angle is optimized for maximum frame rail clearance on any application
Round 1-3/4" primary tubes
Large 3" collector outlet
Standard 3 bolt collector pattern
Includes stainless mounting hardware and gaskets

However, the cost is right up there with the Novak units. Novak ceramic coated $495, Speedway SS $550 Jeff

 

[John D]

a lot of guys are trying to tell me I'm looking at a full year or more of down time.

I always love it when someone who has never done a project becomes the expert on it. It could take you a year or more, but Frank is right, it could be done in a couple weeks (look up the LS2 Swap). I also agree a month is a more reasonable amount of time if you were motivated.

 

[kastein]

it'd take me a full year, but that's because I have so many projects going that I just switch to another when I get bored with one :roflmao:

 

[yossarian19]

I wonder what it would take in working hours, discounting the get-oriented time at the start of a session. Like, if you had all the parts ready to rock & you and a buddy took a holiday weekend...?

 

[Glyphic]

I'm considering doing this swap. Downtime isnt much of an issue for me, as I have another XJ to drive. I am also considering building a stroker. I'm not sure what path to go, but I like the idea of the SBC. My only concern is that I'm on a budget.

 

[1991Jeep_Man]

I know I'm doing a serious revival here (can I get an amen?) but in regards to all the cooling issues/ discussions in this thread, I came across this...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1991-2001-J...ep|Model:Cherokee&vxp=mtr&hash=item2318a8ba33

Garaunteed to cool up to 500 horses. Seems solid. Money back garauntee. Only about $190. The core seems as big as the Novak and FFDynamics unit. What do ya'll think?

The only thing I don't like about any of these rads vs Novak is that they don't have the inlet/outlets in the right spot. Has ya'lls long lower rad hoses held up?

 

[Frank Z]

Very similar to the aluminum radiator I'm running now and it doesn't handle the heat of my engine during the summer.....and it's leaking now as well.

Yes I bought it off Ebay....another lesson learned, don't buy Ebay aluminum radiators. I believe mine is a "Champion"

YMMV.

 

[1991Jeep_Man]

Very similar to the aluminum radiator I'm running now and it doesn't handle the heat of my engine during the summer.....and it's leaking now as well.

Yes I bought it off Ebay....another lesson learned, don't buy Ebay aluminum radiators. I believe mine is a "Champion"

YMMV.

Well damn... that was a bust. I fail to see where/ how BeCool and Novak have the upper-hand with their rads. The only difference I see is that Novak's is appariently cross-flow. But as you mentioned above referencing to the Cooling bible, cross-flow doesnt always equal better. Yet, by what I research and read, only those two seem to do the job.

So I'm guessing there's really no way around either Novak or BeCool, is there?

 

[Frank Z]

I'll get my warranty replacement and worry about it in the spring.......

 

[John D]

Well damn... that was a bust. I fail to see where/ how BeCool and Novak have the upper-hand with their rads. The only difference I see is that Novak's is appariently cross-flow. But as you mentioned above referencing to the Cooling bible, cross-flow doesnt always equal better. Yet, by what I research and read, only those two seem to do the job.

So I'm guessing there's really no way around either Novak or BeCool, is there?

I have a 186* thermostat and that's where mine sits with my Be Cool radiator. On really hot days when I am driving it hard it might see 190*.

It was tough to write the check, but in the end it was money well spent for me.

 

[1991Jeep_Man]

John, I'm having a hard time finding the XJ rad you used in BeCools catalog. Is your rad a special sub-brand or some other that BeCool sells? Like their aluminator, super cool, etc.? Thanks!