foxwar71
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Foxboro, MA
Just build a simple belly pan and rock out the short arms. Wheel the piss outta it and enjoy. 3-4" of lift and some basic skids can handle wheeling 90% of the stuff in New England.
3 link vs Radius arm build
- Thread starter Luke95
- Start date
your jumping in over your head, and at 3" you getting no gains, just keep an eye out for a set of used arms in the classefieds
Boss Cherokee
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Riverside Calif.
Well said Rock2pus. The point is not to push one or the other. The point is to point Luke in an unbiased direction helping him do a budget build .
Not the build that you thinly is better which is argumentative. The fact is radius is more affordable and proven. All and I mean all suspensions are vulnerable to wheel hop under the right conditions or terrain. Try accelerating in sand without proper tire size width and pressure in any suspension that MAY or npt.be dialed in, what do you get?? Yes the evil words Wheel Hop!!!!!!
Not the build that you thinly is better which is argumentative. The fact is radius is more affordable and proven. All and I mean all suspensions are vulnerable to wheel hop under the right conditions or terrain. Try accelerating in sand without proper tire size width and pressure in any suspension that MAY or npt.be dialed in, what do you get?? Yes the evil words Wheel Hop!!!!!!
- Location
- Rainy side of Washington
What's wrong with your current arms? Hell, even stockers will take a lot of abuse.
PS: I have your spider gears sitting on my desk, including thrust washers. I think Doug's coming through this area sometime tomorrow or Friday, I'll send em down with him. Need side gears too?
I see you viewing this thread... we are waiting for you to do what you said you were going to :wave:
Seriously, chill out, you're being a bit of a jerk here.
PS: I have your spider gears sitting on my desk, including thrust washers. I think Doug's coming through this area sometime tomorrow or Friday, I'll send em down with him. Need side gears too?
I see you viewing this thread... we are waiting for you to do what you said you were going to :wave:
Seriously, chill out, you're being a bit of a jerk here.
Kastien throw em in 
arty:
My current bushings are shot in the uppers on the frame end.
The lowers are rustys junk. I put them in with the jeep and the bushings are already shitting out on me.
I am placing an order to my local steel guy for some bumper steel why not add in 8 ft of DOM?
arty: My current bushings are shot in the uppers on the frame end.
The lowers are rustys junk. I put them in with the jeep and the bushings are already shitting out on me.
I am placing an order to my local steel guy for some bumper steel why not add in 8 ft of DOM?
chedisme
NAXJA Member
- Location
- middletown, NY
Like i said befor if you really want to have something you built yourself as aposed to buying. Build some adjustible LCAs. And keep the stock uppers. The LCAs will take all the beati.g.beating. Then when you want to go bigger you can reuse them as your upper arms if you do a radius arm setup.
You sir are right. I measured my old stock arms and they are around 2.5ish will a 2.63 joint fit?
XJLI
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Long Island, NY
there is literally no reason for you to not run short arms. there are only a handful of people who will break all that shit apart at 3" with 33s.
By " solid joints" I meant "not rubber"... A radius arm with johnny joints or heims will not allow the front axle any more twist than a 3link, period...I understand bushing deflection is a concern..., but I think this thread is spiraling out of control as to what the guy who started it is actually trying to accomplish.
billyjp2
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Indian Orchard MA
Thats how we do it
- Location
- Rainy side of Washington
Damn, I saw a billyjp2 reply and was hoping to read about the wonders of front leaf sprung XJs.
It is by I'm learning a lot.
3 things
1 I way over think
2 short arms will most likely work for me with some angle grinder involvement
3 I burned my self to the point the skin turned black an I now smell like a fricking burnt steak. **** you exhaust system. Ct and your god dammed laws about behind the passenger cabbin.
3 things
1 I way over think
2 short arms will most likely work for me with some angle grinder involvement
3 I burned my self to the point the skin turned black an I now smell like a fricking burnt steak. **** you exhaust system. Ct and your god dammed laws about behind the passenger cabbin.
ktm racer 419
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- ROW DIALIN
Alas a radius arm will not work with solely heims or cartridge joints. It requires bushings, and bushings allow unfavorable movement.
I know this thread is dragging out, but look at the first couple pages, it was solid advice. He still had questions and I among others opted to give answers. Nothing wrong with that.
GOTTDANG RIGHT!!!!
I can't believe you thought Bill.I.Am was going to be useful for a change...
but in an attempt to entirely derail this thread so it hopefully ****ing dies because it's useless, I think we should all go monoleaf front and rear. Rock that shit old school stylee and tell everyone to suck an egg. Like this: "GO SUCK ON AH EGGGGGGG"
I don't understand that line of reasoning. Clayton offers proseries arms with cartridge joints throughout....I see no possible reason why a radius setup can't be used without deflective "bushings"....where exactly are bushings required?
- Location
- Rainy side of Washington
I'm pretty sure Sam and Rich are saying the same things in different ways.
Sam's point is that you HAVE to use rubber bushings in at least one place in a radius arm, or it will just swing up and down like a hinge with no flex, because flex would require the mounting brackets on the axle to literally bend. He's right.
Rich's point is that you can build a radius arm to work fine, especially with wheel travel that most people will see. I don't think I'm really qualified to say whether that's right or not, since I've always run shortarms on factory geometry (well, except where my unibody is tweaked.)
Probably what you'd want to build if you were going with a radius arm type design is a wristed radius arm, basically one radius arm locates the axle and keeps it from rotating while the other only locates it. Not as strong, but it'll actually flex without the use of rubber bushings in the suspension links and won't tear the brackets off anything in the process.
Sam's point is that you HAVE to use rubber bushings in at least one place in a radius arm, or it will just swing up and down like a hinge with no flex, because flex would require the mounting brackets on the axle to literally bend. He's right.
Rich's point is that you can build a radius arm to work fine, especially with wheel travel that most people will see. I don't think I'm really qualified to say whether that's right or not, since I've always run shortarms on factory geometry (well, except where my unibody is tweaked.)
Probably what you'd want to build if you were going with a radius arm type design is a wristed radius arm, basically one radius arm locates the axle and keeps it from rotating while the other only locates it. Not as strong, but it'll actually flex without the use of rubber bushings in the suspension links and won't tear the brackets off anything in the process.
