3 link vs Radius arm build

Welding skills
Little better performance on road better off road

Not doing a bolt on like my idiot of a friend.

Being the test guy for some friends who want to do a linked setup or radius arm setup
theres nothing wrong with bolt on stuff, and suspention stuff isnt where you should be practicing welding skills
I'm running Clayton longarms and 33's on 3" of lift and love it. Just used longer shocks with dropped lower mounts for the droop. Drives great on the road, wheels just fine on trutracs. And I don't even use the fun pedal, ask these guys, they know.
Radius arms tuck fine with little lifts.
Rich
trutracs dont work in new england, ask these guys, they know
 
I don't know that I'd learn to weld on suspension fabrication. Do that stuff wrong and it'll kill you or someone else when it fails at a bad time.

3" 33's had like 3500 into it including the jeep, 80% of the parts were bought used off of other nac members parted it out and got 2k back

Deepwoods_10-11_001.JPG

build somthin small and simple first, but it seems to me like you have alot of other issues before even thinking about long arms
that 30 got me out of a hell of a bind and resulted in me making it to fallcrawl that year. Thanks.

From the limited amount of wheeling I've done I learned
1 sway bars suck
2 open diffs blow monkey dick
3 stock track bar bracket blows
4 33s are in the future
5 needed brake lines

So I fixed all except the 33s and open diffs.
I've been wheeling on stock XJ track bar brackets and track bars for years. Never had an issue with them (but now that I've said that I will, I'm sure.) The only one I ever had loosen up on me was on my 98 backup DD/toiletmobile, it's 100% stock, sagged/lowered and the track bar joint got super ****ed up driving on the road.

Dana 35s and Dana 30s with the 260 u joints shouldn't be wheeled period lol.

Just ticking time bombs imo
agree.

I ran a few trails at rocktoberfest year before last with a factory 260 shaft + junkyard ujoint in the driver side (it was a spare), locked, on 33s, including a few hundred feet of black trail with 93xjcowboy and crew. It didn't blow up, but I had to pussy foot it the whole way and it blew up shortly after that. 260 shafts are spares only imo, and only if they're free...
 
I am able to weld not the best but i have yet to have my weld i have done in shop fail, even with 6k lb of pressure on it.
I meant practice as in welding a skid plate up the putting my arms off of it.
My bar bent at the point were the rock hit it.
 
heres a thread with some midarm 3 link info

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1092687

Once Upon a time I had a radius arm longarm

Now I Have a midarm 3 link.

I like the midarm 3 link better.

Ride on the street was the same, flex was the same.

The midarms just felt more stable on and off the road, less swaying, and I just prefer the feeling solid joints offer over rubber bushings. And it might just be my butt dyno here, but on the steeper hillclimbs my front end felt more planted with the 3 link as opposed to the radius arm. Most people won't notice that though.
 
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Ktm
Would a short arm 3 link be feasible?
That link was helpful
With 8 inches of separation at the axle and 4 at the frame is their any thing else
Besides length to consider?
 
trutracs dont work in new england, ask these guys, they know[/QUOTE]

Someone's popped one up there? I've had no issues. They've been the best of both worlds for me. Invisible on the street, and I've yet to find an obstacle they wont get me over.
 
Ktm
Would a short arm 3 link be feasible?
That link was helpful
With 8 inches of separation at the axle and 4 at the frame is their any thing else
Besides length to consider?

Id say if you can bring the upper up any on the body side you would be better off.

You can do a short arm 3 link. But I wouldn't do it without strengthening the uca mount on the body side, and getting a solid joint with provisions for a larger than 10mm bolt on the axle side on top of the cast center section. Rock krawler makes one that runs a 9/16" bolt and I believe currie also does. Or you can just build a link tower on the passenger side.

trutracs dont work in new england, ask these guys, they know

Someone's popped one up there? I've had no issues. They've been the best of both worlds for me. Invisible on the street, and I've yet to find an obstacle they wont get me over.[/QUOTE]

Never ran one, and thats because Ive never been impressed by them enough to purchase one.

Ya know what they say, if you don't get stuck, you arent wheeling hard enough. People find obstacles they can't get over while fully locked all the time.
 
I'd never try to do that. I was thinking of making the crossmember and running around 19 inch arms with a 21 upper? And id run a link tower on the axle side
8 inches of separations with 3/4 upper homes and 7/8th lowers
 
Thats close to what mine was length wise, but midarms with a crossmember? why? theres nothing for the crossmember to do up there unless you have plans to make it enormous and hold the tranny up too.

I just welded some brackets to the plated unirails.
 
Thats close to what mine was length wise, but midarms with a crossmember? why? theres nothing for the crossmember to do up there unless you have plans to make it enormous and hold the tranny up too.

I just welded some brackets to the plated unirails.

Tranny skid plate so I don't wreck that. Tied into a crossmember and t case skid
 
it is good to have some armor if your going to keep it lift small for a while. It was a blast when my jeep was at 3" with a good belly skid. gives you some piece of mind.
 
just a couple notes, don't make it too big or else heat won't be able to escape as easily making SUPER hot floors and tranny/t-case temps.

and don't make it too big and heavy that its a huge pain in the ass to put on the jeep. i like having a lightweight/ structural crossmember with a skid plate bolted over it.
 
It's funny to hear when someone tells you something is over rated! Especially when the one doesn't have the item and the ones that have the item tell you it was a great investment! Even funnier when he advises you to stand on the skinny pedal!! ASK guys that stand on the skinny pedal because they don't have traction enhancement in their XJ. If they truly stand on it and have been wheeling seriously for more than weekend trips to the mall chances are they will have a list of items they've broken and that's not limited to axles or u-joints. It would probably include output shafts and t-case cases. So when you feel the urge to stand on the skinny look in your wallet 1st and make sure you have Visa or a lot of cash if your running a 30 with bigger than 32/33 or a 44 with 35's and up. Now let mr clarify"stock axles and u joints and no lockers and truly standing on the skinny"! Any ways radius arms are fine. I am still running highly modified Ford radius arms since my 1st built XJ for the Hammers back in 1992. 8 1/2" lift locked 9"s with 44 outers on 36x15.50 MTZ's. I cut the arms, tubed, arched them, strapped them and Johnny jointed them! I love the simplicity of them. My van is 5 link with 1" heims so I have driven and owned every type of suspension including air bags, except for the elliptical type spring suspension. Seen them in action never could afford to try them! Even heims are getting been ridiculous! Use Johnnies at least you can rebuild them! Here's a pic of my easy 23 year proven radius arms. I just redid the trac bar from the stock Ford that had been cut down to fit. The new bar is in 1 1/2" stuffed with 1 1/4" solid round stock (a little over kill) with 7/8" heims because I've finally decided to go Hydro assist and wanted to free up space. I also made a steering stabilizer bracket off the top of the 9" housing which eventually will hold the hydro ram! (Neither item is in the pic).
th_DSCN0448.jpg
 
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It's funny to hear when someone tells you something is over rated! Especially when the one doesn't have the item and the ones that have the item tell you it was a great investment! Even funnier when he advises you to stand on the skinny pedal!! ASK guys that stand on the skinny pedal because they don't have traction enhancement in their XJ. If they truly stand on it and have been wheeling seriously for more than weekend trips to the mall chances are they will have a list of items they've broken and that's not limited to axles or u-joints. It would probably include output shafts and t-case cases. So when you feel the urge to stand on the skinny look in your wallet 1st and make sure you have Visa or a lot of cash if your running a 30 with bigger than 32/33 or a 44 with 35's and up. Now let mr clarify"stock axles and u joints and no lockers and truly standing on the skinny"! Any ways radius arms are fine. I am still running highly modified Ford radius arms since my 1st built XJ for the Hammers back in 1992. 8 1/2" lift locked 9"s with 44 outers on 36x15.50 MTZ's. I cut the arms, tubed, arched them, strapped them and Johnny jointed them! I love the simplicity of them. My van is 5 link with 1" heims so I have driven and owned every type of suspension including air bags, except for the elliptical type spring suspension. Seen them in action never could afford to try them! Even heims are getting been ridiculous! Use Johnnies at least you can rebuild them! Here's a pic of my easy 23 year proven radius arms. I just redid the trac bar from the stock Ford that had been cut down to fit. The new bar is in 1 1/2" stuffed with 1 1/4" solid round stock (a little over kill) with 7/8" heims because I've finally decided to go Hydro assist and wanted to free up space. I also made a steering stabilizer bracket off the top of the 9" housing which eventually will hold the hydro ram! (Neither item is in the pic).
th_DSCN0448.jpg


all were saying to him is dont go crazy, hes only had a jeep for a few weeks maybe months, no need to jump the gun and go rad arms or 3 link. and the RE radius arms I had did hop alot when fighting for traction. and lockers arent needed, but they help. so for just having fun purposes, Id say they are over rated. and hes only on 235s
 
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7 months of owning her
I don want to go crazy but I also don't want to be that guy.
The one who's stuck do to 3 inch lift and no skids
If I'm building a crossmember to put a skid on why not spend the $200 on a set of hiems link tower and brackets?
 
7 months of owning her
I don want to go crazy but I also don't want to be that guy.
The one who's stuck do to 3 inch lift and no skids
If I'm building a crossmember to put a skid on why not spend the $200 on a set of hiems link tower and brackets?

I think that sounds good!

if I knew what I do now thats how I would start.
 
I think that sounds good!

if I knew what I do now thats how I would start.
I already have gotten hung up on my T case so I need to skid plate that.
Tranny took a log and made a small dent. I dunno about you but as a kid with this being my DD I dont want to kill it. I also love to show off to the auto teacher. (hes cool Loves cherokees and thinks mine is funny because of all the shit I do on it yet it still a $500 jeep)
 
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