x-jay vision
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Albuquerque, NM
Its finally time. Military life has put me in a position where my Jeep can't get used the way she should. Its heartbreaking to drive such an amazing rig on pavement only. Looking to re-home my baby, to a good home
2001 Jeep Cherokee Sport, was a western rig most of its life, relatively
rust free, though there is some surface rust on parts (not the body) NO ROT
at all
ECU swapped to 2000 non-cali package for pre-cat delete (still has the
primary cat, passes any exhaust gas sniffer test with no problem)
Leather front seats from ZJ Grand Cherokee, 5 rocker switch panel replaces
center console ashtray, CB/PA mounted about rear-view (PA has a hidden
speaker behind front cross member and amplifier mounted under the dash
Interior is mostly unchanged, in fantastic condition for the year, Husky
custum floor liners throughout, rear cargo tiedowns are bolted through
rather than riveted. Custom storage bag for rear recessed compartment and
Artec industries Quart-crate for 4 quart storage. Headliner needs replaced,
I have the material, just havent gotten around to it yet.
Moving on to the rest of this build:
Suspension: Adjustable rear shackle boxes with greasable extended shackles,
rear leafs started life as a Rusty's pack and have since been taken apart
and full length Deaver leaf liner is between all leafs. It is an insanely
smooth leaf pack. Rear Sum Spring progressive bumps/spring assist, Sumo
Springs do not come into play until about 1 inch of spring compression, very
smooth ramp-up. Fronts are Rustys 4.5 coils with poly isolators, poly bumps.
Stock spring pockets on the axle have been cut off and high quality plate
custom plate steel pockets replaced them. IRO adjustable upper control arms,
Rusty's curved fixed lower control arms all on gusseted drop brackets
(tacked to frame) this combo has extended the wheelbase 1.25 inches further
forward than stock.
Steering: OTK steering kit with tie rod ends (from a WJ), double-sheer heim
joint track bar, there is absolutely no death wobble and no bump steer
because this is a true tie-rod drag link setup, single steering stabilizer
on custom welded bracket keeps it in front and above tie-rod. Currie
Anti-rock sway bar.
Brakes/Axles: Akebono big brake kit from WJ, drilled, slotted rotors drilled
to 5x4.5 , riddler diff covers front and rear. Front axle is a high pinion
d30 with support brace welded on and gusseted knuckles, outer axle seals to
control mud/dust entry, factory LCA brackets were cut off and replaced with
custom plate steel brackets and skids. 4.56 gears, Torsen LSD in the front
(the absolute best option for snow, totally amazing) rear is a chryo 8.25
with a lunchbox locker. rear disc conversion from a KJ. Working parking
brake with custom length lines.
Drivetrain: factory 4.0 6 cylinder with new head and valves, brown dog motor
mounts and engine brackets, custom length driveshafts (swappable length
front and rear for "limp home mode" if necessary) rear SYE, factory transfer
case (231) and transmission (AW4) heimlink transfer case shift kit that
shifts like butter
Body: front brushguard bumper with 8 "frame" tie-in points, DBO rear tire
carrier bumper with cut and fold rear guards. Front led light bar, low pro
custom roof-rack with rear light bar (rear light bar currently doesnt work
but easy swap) waterproof wiring throughout. Rigid led flasher module,
console switch controlled for rear flashers. wired for flat towing behind a
camper to use the factory turn and brake lights. i have the custom tow-bar
and a tow-brake setup that can be included. 2x2 steel rocker guards, low
profile custom roof rack, gas tank skidplate.
There truly is too much to list on this Jeep. It has been a labor of love
and I will absolutely lose money on this rig. Im selling it because it was
built for western hunting and camping adventures where I was often an entire
day of driving from civilization. Ive been in Alabama for 3 years and moving
to Florida next. I can't and don't use this rig to its full potential. I
WON'T deliberately drive it through mud for the sake of it (though I've had
no choice many times and it does incredibly well). I want it to do Jeep
things, not get driven to work once a week.*
I would not hesitate to drive this thing to California today, its reliable,
has working AC and cruise control, and is truly an amazing driving vehicle
for what it is. Price is always negotiable but I wont respond to ridiculous offers without discussion. I haven't
included pictures because there are truly too many pictures to take! tell me
what you want to see and I'll make it happen.
Sent from my SM-G991U using Tapatalk
2001 Jeep Cherokee Sport, was a western rig most of its life, relatively
rust free, though there is some surface rust on parts (not the body) NO ROT
at all
ECU swapped to 2000 non-cali package for pre-cat delete (still has the
primary cat, passes any exhaust gas sniffer test with no problem)
Leather front seats from ZJ Grand Cherokee, 5 rocker switch panel replaces
center console ashtray, CB/PA mounted about rear-view (PA has a hidden
speaker behind front cross member and amplifier mounted under the dash
Interior is mostly unchanged, in fantastic condition for the year, Husky
custum floor liners throughout, rear cargo tiedowns are bolted through
rather than riveted. Custom storage bag for rear recessed compartment and
Artec industries Quart-crate for 4 quart storage. Headliner needs replaced,
I have the material, just havent gotten around to it yet.
Moving on to the rest of this build:
Suspension: Adjustable rear shackle boxes with greasable extended shackles,
rear leafs started life as a Rusty's pack and have since been taken apart
and full length Deaver leaf liner is between all leafs. It is an insanely
smooth leaf pack. Rear Sum Spring progressive bumps/spring assist, Sumo
Springs do not come into play until about 1 inch of spring compression, very
smooth ramp-up. Fronts are Rustys 4.5 coils with poly isolators, poly bumps.
Stock spring pockets on the axle have been cut off and high quality plate
custom plate steel pockets replaced them. IRO adjustable upper control arms,
Rusty's curved fixed lower control arms all on gusseted drop brackets
(tacked to frame) this combo has extended the wheelbase 1.25 inches further
forward than stock.
Steering: OTK steering kit with tie rod ends (from a WJ), double-sheer heim
joint track bar, there is absolutely no death wobble and no bump steer
because this is a true tie-rod drag link setup, single steering stabilizer
on custom welded bracket keeps it in front and above tie-rod. Currie
Anti-rock sway bar.
Brakes/Axles: Akebono big brake kit from WJ, drilled, slotted rotors drilled
to 5x4.5 , riddler diff covers front and rear. Front axle is a high pinion
d30 with support brace welded on and gusseted knuckles, outer axle seals to
control mud/dust entry, factory LCA brackets were cut off and replaced with
custom plate steel brackets and skids. 4.56 gears, Torsen LSD in the front
(the absolute best option for snow, totally amazing) rear is a chryo 8.25
with a lunchbox locker. rear disc conversion from a KJ. Working parking
brake with custom length lines.
Drivetrain: factory 4.0 6 cylinder with new head and valves, brown dog motor
mounts and engine brackets, custom length driveshafts (swappable length
front and rear for "limp home mode" if necessary) rear SYE, factory transfer
case (231) and transmission (AW4) heimlink transfer case shift kit that
shifts like butter
Body: front brushguard bumper with 8 "frame" tie-in points, DBO rear tire
carrier bumper with cut and fold rear guards. Front led light bar, low pro
custom roof-rack with rear light bar (rear light bar currently doesnt work
but easy swap) waterproof wiring throughout. Rigid led flasher module,
console switch controlled for rear flashers. wired for flat towing behind a
camper to use the factory turn and brake lights. i have the custom tow-bar
and a tow-brake setup that can be included. 2x2 steel rocker guards, low
profile custom roof rack, gas tank skidplate.
There truly is too much to list on this Jeep. It has been a labor of love
and I will absolutely lose money on this rig. Im selling it because it was
built for western hunting and camping adventures where I was often an entire
day of driving from civilization. Ive been in Alabama for 3 years and moving
to Florida next. I can't and don't use this rig to its full potential. I
WON'T deliberately drive it through mud for the sake of it (though I've had
no choice many times and it does incredibly well). I want it to do Jeep
things, not get driven to work once a week.*
I would not hesitate to drive this thing to California today, its reliable,
has working AC and cruise control, and is truly an amazing driving vehicle
for what it is. Price is always negotiable but I wont respond to ridiculous offers without discussion. I haven't
included pictures because there are truly too many pictures to take! tell me
what you want to see and I'll make it happen.
Sent from my SM-G991U using Tapatalk