2JZGTE swap this summer...

child9 said:
"From Russia with DUBS" eh? I LOVE IT.

Stoked that I inspired this existing. WAY TO GO BURIK and friends! I want to see some video of you beating up the streets in it. :)
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fixed
 
child9 said:
When I'm not swapping 2Js into Jeeps I am working on are performance motorcycle exhausts that look like thrust vector nozzles. :)
Click to expand...

cool ) you're tough )))
i only have this 2-wheel transport ))) :


RTch05d9.jpg
 
child9, did u have problems with brakes after your swap?

when i get positive boost, the pressure gets into the vacuum brake booster and the brake pedal becomes very hard to press, almost impossible...

did u change this 44730 valve?
470088.png


i installed one from a non-turbo 1JZ, is it important? maybe need one from a turbo-version ?
 
eek-- bad brakes under boost is definitely a bad thing! I'd verify that the turbo version is different and, if so, use it. You definitely want a check valve that will hold up to maximum boost pressure and a little extra for safety.
 
Hmmmmm. No, my brakes work fine. Except they are small. Almost missed a turn a few weeks ago, and that would have been bad. :) There is a check valve at the brake booster that I presume works fine. I have brake boosted enough to do a little burn out, but I don't know if the engine ever went into boost for that. I will confirm when I get a chance. I'm also running at 8 psi. Where is your pressure level set? What are other vehicles that run high turbo pressure doing? USDM Supras just have a normal brake booster setup I think.

Why would you be pressing the brake pedal when the engine is seeing boost, unless you are just trying to smoke rubber? :) Perfectly valid reason, I'm just curious.

A custom stall speed for the torque converter that is set to your system should allow for you to make full boost at virtually no forward speed, thus allowing for good torque and a turbo setup that is more than adequate for crawling or other off road activities (provided adequate trans fluid cooling precautions are employed)...but I don't think that's what your Jeep is for either, which I why I ask the question above.
 
If I may make a suggestion, do not pull the Brake Booster Signal from the manifold bolted to the engine.

Pull it from the intake side of the compressor. You will have vacuum all the time. Even more so under boost as the venturi effect is that much greater. Same thing for the HVAC controls, use the compressor intake as the source.

In my case, I brazed brass tubing to the fittings to get them further into the air stream. That may not be needed but I am the original "belt and suspenders" type of Engineeer...

Then again, my stuff works.
 
+1
Burik, I totally agree with O-gauge here... I even thought about that when doing the install, but I haven't experienced an issue at my low boost, so I didn't bother.
 
sometimes, when driving fast you need to brake suddenly, for that i put my foot off the accelerator and push the brakes very fastly. during that time the blowoff is not able to lose the boost so fastly, so i get an inflated brake booster, impossible to press the pedal ) after a second everything is ok, but sometimes a second is too long... -)
i checked the toyota parts catalogue, turbo and non-turbo versions check-valve is identical and has same number. i will try to use one, that is working for sure, will take it from my friend's car. if this doesnot help, will follow the advice about the vacuum from before the turbo-charger.... =)
 
Something is wrong with your blow-off valve if you are able to get your foot off the accelerator and onto the brake pedal quicker than it can release the excess manifold pressure. It should be releasing pressure the moment you allow the throttle body to close. Blow off should happen damn near instantly, otherwise you are still damaging your turbos.
 
I'm not talking about noise, I'm talking about response time. So you don't get a whipple noise then? You shouldn't. That is the sound of the pressure wave coming back to the compressor wheel and stopping it from spinning...which will eventually kill the turbo.
 
It sounds/acts like a bad check valve. The odd failure would be a leaky diaphram in the booster losing vaccuum while under boost.

The whipple noise is rather high pitched chugging noise that is similiar to a BOV but it sounds very bad. Think of air stacking up against the throttle blade until it over comes turbo discharge rate and it makes the turbo stop and run backwards. Imagine running full charge ,stop, turn around and run at full speed again in less than one second. It is one hell of a noise!

The noise is similiar to compressor surge FWIW.

dave b
 
ok, i understood -) no i don't have this kind of sound, my BOV sounds clean and loud ))
by the way, how do u distinguish that whipple noise from a compressor surge ?
 
Compressor surge happens while accelerating under full or part throttle. It is a similiar noise but can be violent upon the vehicle depending on the severity. Look on you tube for a GN with a T70 with part throttle surge. You can see the car move/shudder in relation to the surge.
Basically it is a turbo your vehicle can use but it is too large in certain conditions and the boost is looking for someplace to go. I have had some NEAT failures due to this!

dave b
 
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