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2JZGTE swap this summer...

I, for one, have total faith that it will be sorted soon. I also can not accept that, of all people, you actually made a wiring error. I also agree with you on taking advice from individuals. Research the data. Assuming open exhaust at the moment, whats wrong with a little noise? Lets you know the beast is awake...

That advice caveat applies to me as well. What do I know and what does it matter. Get your data and make informed decisions. All will be well. Keep in mind that although it is not out to get you, never underestimate the perversity of the inanimate.

I only wish I was closer. What a beast.
 
sounds like you're getting really close to getting this running. Can't wait!
 
For whatever reason, I had the ground side of the relay trigger signal circuit going to the yellow wire that is on the output side of the little red 10 amp fuse in the PDC...and hot-to-hot doesn't complete a circuit, no matter how hot it is. :) Maybe I was tired. Maybe it was getting dark. Maybe both. Whatevs. If I end up with that one electrical error out of the 50 wires I connected...I'll be really happy. I'm off to switch the fuel lines now, and after she runs and heat cycles a couple of times, I change fluids a couple of times...it will be time to see if the auto transmission works properly. I work tonight at 5 so I won't get too far today...but I expect it to run today.
 
IT LIVES!
 
Checked a few things instrumentation-wise...so far tach works, fuel gauge works, temp looks like it is working but I will verify it doesn't need a resistor, and the oil gauge needs a resistor. I may try to swap it out with an OEM Jeep sensor. No boost readings until she's driving and making boost, and no speedometer (hopefully) until then.
Only other main thing is getting the alternator to charge the battery. This has been a foggy spot in all of my info all along.
 
Should be pretty easy, you're using the toy alt right? Just wire your battery / PDC B+ terminal feed up the same way the toyota had it wired. On the jeep it's dirt simple:
thick-ass cable from battery to starter
thick-ass cable from battery to engine block
thick cable from battery to fender ground
thick cable from alternator casing (ground) to battery
thick cable from battery to B+ input on PDC, has a fusible link in it (10ga iirc)
thick cable from alternator B+ output to either the PDC B+ input or the battery lug, I forget which.

I'd be shocked if the toyota wiring was very different at all from this. Only so many ways you can charge a battery. The field coil wiring / regulator wiring may be very different but that's between the alt and the ECU, and should likely be 100% toyota equivalent.
 
Well the Aristo alt is a 3-wire...and has the pins S, L, and IG...I just can't seem to confirm what's what. From my reading, "S" would be a "sense" wire, which I connected to the PDC fusible link so the voltage reg sees the voltage at the PDC and changes output accordingly. The "L" pin is for the "light" if I'm not mistaken, and it is wired to both the light in the dash and the ECU and indicates a no charge condition. The "IG" pin I'm assuming is "IGNITION" power and is the wire that sens 12v to the alt when the ASD relay is turned on by key on ignition power. Ground is through the block, I believe. That's how I have it, I just don't know what pins are what on the JDM alternator. I will likely just swap wires around and keep track of the combinations. What are there, 12 possibilities, max?
 
Swapping wires around leaves a good possibility of smoking something... but you might get lucky.

Your reading makes sense, not sure on the L one but the S and IG make sense. Is there a bigger B+ lug somewhere on it that goes to the actual charging system? Sounds like S is for feedback from the charging system to the ECU so it can modulate the field coil voltage properly, IG is likely one end of the field coil itself. Got an FSM for the donor vehicle handy? That's what I'd probably look in first.
 
Pretty sure there is no large gauge cable ground for the alternator...? Unless it's in the field terminal setup or something (that 4 wire box).

When I upgraded all my cables, there was only a positive feed from the alternator to the battery.
 
Pretty sure there is no large gauge cable ground for the alternator...? Unless it's in the field terminal setup or something (that 4 wire box).

When I upgraded all my cables, there was only a positive feed from the alternator to the battery.
At least on my 91, 96, and 98 it's built into the field terminal setup. It's the big lug all the way out at the end of the strip of terminals.

On some years (I forget which, specifically) there may also be a large ground wire to one of the bolts holding the ignition coil to the block, and/or to the stud that holds the oil dipstick tube down.
 
At least on my 91, 96, and 98 it's built into the field terminal setup. It's the big lug all the way out at the end of the strip of terminals.

On some years (I forget which, specifically) there may also be a large ground wire to one of the bolts holding the ignition coil to the block, and/or to the stud that holds the oil dipstick tube down.

That would make sense, mine has that too.

Large ground wire to the ignition coil stud definitely that comes back to the battery.

Then there is the strap from firewall to the back of the head.

The ground on the engine block near the dipstick does not provide a ground, it's for some other items (can't remember).
 
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