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2JZGTE swap this summer...

Great technique for doing the tack welding together. <mental_note />
 
@Grimm: Yeah, I suppose it is. :) It's probably a good idea to have that stuff before starting a project like this. A garage with 110v power, a chop saw, and a mig welder can get you through a LOT of stuff, but this, not so much. This is what I do for a living. :)

@Root: Thanks! I came up with that the other day, and it is working out really well. It's just pipe insulation for 1/2" pipes. I got it at Lowes. It just pulls away from the heat, so it is perfect and leaves no mess. More detail below.

I was able to get started around 1 this afternoon and stopped at 7:30 or so. I fixed the top runner and spent most of the time today working on the fixture. Cutting and drilling through 1/2" stainless plate takes a little time. Here's what I got done yesterday and today.

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Here is an example of a tack...

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...and what the tubing looks like when I pull it out of the schedule 10.

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I use the insulation to figure out the bends, then mark the exposed tubing. Then I can measure it and cut the straight to fit pretty much perfect.

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Bolted up the turbo for second pass at runner fitment. Had to adjust the tall one. This is all of them good now.

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NOW IT'S A PARTY!!!
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I feel like I should mention this here, because most of the people I know now don't know or just don't care to know... CAUTION: Soap Box Moment.

Drilling holes is an art. Grabbing a bit that looks like the size of the bolt you want to go through the hole, putting it in a drill, and spinning it as fast as you can while pressing in as hard as you can is plain wrong. The "Russel Walker friction method" destroys bits, makes wonky holes that are misplaced, and just costs money. Drill bit size selection is critical. Using transfer punches/center punch and reading drill and tap charts goes a long way. Starting with a small pilot hole, and step up the sizes of your bits till you get to the final size. USE CUTTING/DRILLING OIL. Spin them at the appropriate speed for their diameter and the material you are drilling. If you aren't getting long curly spirals, then you aren't drilling properly. Keep the bits cool. Please, if you have never been taught, find out how to drill and place holes. You will be much better off for it.

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Hood clearance so far is great. That 3rd runner should be the tallest one anyway.
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Personally I think this manifold is pretty ugly, but it is what it is. I have seen way worse. That thought comforts me a little bit at least. If the dyno charts exceed expectation that will make up for it though. :)
 
If it is ugly, remember that it is also as unique as a @#%damn snowflake and that nobody else can show you a prettier one for the application.
Great work, can't wait to see it, etc.
Good soap box moment, too - sounds like something my old metal shop teacher would've told us. He was right, too.
 
Personally I think this manifold is pretty ugly, but it is what it is. I have seen way worse. That thought comforts me a little bit at least. If the dyno charts exceed expectation that will make up for it though. :)

Form follows function.

Make version 2.0 pretty if you care that much, we want to see dyno runs. :D
 
Version 2.0 will be a top mount manifold for a more traditional turbo setup. I will also "2.0" the mounts. It's looking like I'm gonna kit the whole swap, start to finish. I'm also trying to build in some tranny/turbo options for the "customer". Everybody likes choices.
 
That's a crazy manifold! and hopefully the dyno results will show that's is not just ugly!
 
Stock ecu for now. Considering the oem computers are more robust, I'm gonna try to just keep that. If it gets me to 400-450 AWTQ, I'm stopping there.

Does anyone know if the fuel pressure regulator is in the tank with the pump? I'm gonna have to bypass the stock fuel pressure regulator and run a return line back from the engine to the tank. I can look it up in the manual, I'm just on a quick lunch at the moment and thought one of you might know off the top of your head.
 
That's what I thought. The 3.0L has one on the fuel rail as well, and it's one-to-one, unlike the Jeep regulator. Mission there is to install a walbro, then make the needed modifications that will allow the return line from the engine to get in the tank. Wait a sec...would a fuel pump platform from an 87-95 Cherokee already be like that AND bolt right into my existing tank? If so I need to find one asap.
 
IIRC there were two different tanks used, one steel one plastic, on cherokees. It makes sense to me that the switch over was at the same time as the fuel system (pump, regulator etc) switch. That being said, you have to ask if the two tanks & units share those all critical mounting dimensions. So do you feel lucky?
 
might be able to just swap tanks. can't be much of a difference other then size. i know my 88 has a steel 20 gallon tank with the fuel pump mounted on the front for easy access
 
might be able to just swap tanks. can't be much of a difference other then size. i know my 88 has a steel 20 gallon tank with the fuel pump mounted on the front for easy access

XJ's from 84 - 96 all have the same tank. I don't kow about the 97 up ones. I used a 94 pump unit in my 84 tank.
 
Dude that manifold is sick. Long tube FTW. What size are your primarys?

When I had my IS I would have loved to had a long tube turbo manifold. Our only real options were a ebay manifold or a turboeast log manifold, both sucked ass in my eyes.
You could make mad money producing some manifolds for the 2jz-GE guys since the bolt pattern is different for the intake & exhaust manifolds... The GTE guys have alot of options but those GE guys don't & are always looking for something new.

Great work man.
 
So if:
"XJ's from 84 - 96 all have the same tank."

AND

"Regulator was at the fuel rail for 87-95 4.0s. 96+ had the regulator in the tank."

Then I just need any fuel pump platform from any earlier Jeep, correct?
 
Mocked up the other 3 runners (4, 5, and 6) in about a half-hour this morning. So far this is approximately what it'll look like.
 
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