2 door Cherokee 01 with 25,000 miles... mild build for daughters first Jeep

[Red Mistress]

Christmas over WHEW party1:
Gotta finish Excursion 1" front axle stretch to make room in shop for this XJ build.

Found dark grey Infinity tweeter sail panels.

Decided to tackle the Boostwerks comp mount / hidden winch kit & Warn M8000 cable winch to work with factory bumper.

Saw youtube vid of Davis Auto Sports build using adjustable height rear shackles.

So found the following:
https://www.core4x4.com/product/jeep-xj-mj-adjustable-leaf-spring-shackles/
Or
https://www.ironman4x4fab.com/product-page/xj-adjustable-shackles

The Ironman shackles look to have boomerang style.

I received HD Offroad bolt on shackle relocation boxes, anyone know which style adjustable shackles work with them?

 

[b16gsr]

Weasel ... yea your right alot of work unless changing axles.

Kyle ... Interesting what luck you have. Even with planning, nothing ever works out easy for me.

This is best thread I've been able to find on Metalcloak lift. His rear is high even after removing a leaf & coil spring spacer.
The consensus in that thread, is that leaf spring relocator boxes are necessary for good shackle angle.

https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f67/metalcloak-3-5-duroflex-lift-kit-203190/index7/

So with HD relocator lift boxes, I figure .75" lift on stock shackles at 45 degree angle, and .25" shims and 2.5" springs should give 3.5" lift.
So guess I'll install and see if I get level stance, then can fine tune with longer shackles.

Now to look for 2.5" leaf springs.


On side note the 40K mile stock Black Beauty twin sister sold for $14,000 on Bring A Trailer. That makes me feel better about dumping coin in this one. 40K was from MO which they use salt on the roads and the undercarriage & engine compartment are a little rusty.

https://bringatrailer.com/listing/2001-jeep-cherokee-13/

Where I am from that 40k 2001 Jeep is lick-able clean, we dont even classify that as rust, lol.


I agree with what has been said earlier in this thread in regards to the 20k black beauty jeep. I would just drive it, at only 20k is not even mofo broken in yet. At most I would go with a budget boost and keep the rear sway-bar since a fresh 16yr old driver will be behind the wheel. Let the driver and jeep season a bit, then start the chopping up. The danger is not really the 16yr old driver as much as it is the other drivers and the lack of experience dealing with them/handling a lifted jeep.


Not trying to tell you what yo do, but after seeing a few fathers face some rollovers and really close calls easing into this project might just be a good thing.

Hey there that was my XJ on BaT. Came here to follow along with your build.

 

[Vintage Smoke]

It sounds like you have already decided, but to put your mind at ease about the frame stiffeners....it is absolutely not necessary.

You are building a near stock XJ that will see limited off road use. There are literally hundreds of thousands of Cherokees on the road. Half or more with over 200K miles that have no frame cracking problems. Hell....tons of those are mildly modified with a 3" lift and 31" tires that have no problems. Welding in frame stiffeners is an involved job with a small cost for the stiffeners but a lot of labor(or cost) in fitting and welding them in place.

You can see a benefit with stiffeners even on a street only XJ. It will tighten up the handling a bit and cut down on the mild squeaks and rattles inherent in a unibody truck, but not nearly enough to justify the work and expense....never mind having to extensively modify such a clean low mileage survivor. Honestly most non auto enthusiast types probably wouldn't even notice the difference. I have owned 3 mostly stock daily driver XJ's with over 200K miles. My 4th current daily has 140K with a 3" lift and 31's. I occasionally hit some mild trails with my son. None of them have had unibody cracking issues. I have alswo never said "Boy...this thing handles like crap. I wish i had some stiffeners to tighten it up." It is only now that I am building number 5 with 1 ton axles, long arm, etc and plan to push it off road that I will worry about strengthening the frame.

For a mostly street driven XJ, that will occasionally be driven lightly off road, I would strengthen up the area at the steering box by at least getting rid of the aluminum steering box spacer. Then drive it and enjoy it in confidence. Save the frame stiffeners for when (if?) your daughter ever gets bit by the off road bug and decides to go with a bigger lift, bigger tires, and more difficult trails that are likely to put some twisting on the unibody.

 

[Red Mistress]

Hey there that was my XJ on BaT. Came here to follow along with your build.

I checked out your build on Cherokee Forum before Black Beauty # 2 sold on BAT.
Been wondering why you didn't build that one as driver?

My daughter really likes blue, like the one you have and we looked at one.
It was rust free, nice original paint & ran good, but I think it was used as a doghouse at one time.

 

[Red Mistress]

It sounds like you have already decided, but to put your mind at ease about the frame stiffeners....it is absolutely not necessary.

You are building a near stock XJ that will see limited off road use. There are literally hundreds of thousands of Cherokees on the road. Half or more with over 200K miles that have no frame cracking problems. Hell....tons of those are mildly modified with a 3" lift and 31" tires that have no problems. Welding in frame stiffeners is an involved job with a small cost for the stiffeners but a lot of labor(or cost) in fitting and welding them in place.

You can see a benefit with stiffeners even on a street only XJ. It will tighten up the handling a bit and cut down on the mild squeaks and rattles inherent in a unibody truck, but not nearly enough to justify the work and expense....never mind having to extensively modify such a clean low mileage survivor. Honestly most non auto enthusiast types probably wouldn't even notice the difference. I have owned 3 mostly stock daily driver XJ's with over 200K miles. My 4th current daily has 140K with a 3" lift and 31's. I occasionally hit some mild trails with my son. None of them have had unibody cracking issues. I have alswo never said "Boy...this thing handles like crap. I wish i had some stiffeners to tighten it up." It is only now that I am building number 5 with 1 ton axles, long arm, etc and plan to push it off road that I will worry about strengthening the frame.

For a mostly street driven XJ, that will occasionally be driven lightly off road, I would strengthen up the area at the steering box by at least getting rid of the aluminum steering box spacer. Then drive it and enjoy it in confidence. Save the frame stiffeners for when (if?) your daughter ever gets bit by the off road bug and decides to go with a bigger lift, bigger tires, and more difficult trails that are likely to put some twisting on the unibody.

Thanks for the reply about frame stiffner's. I agree are overkill for this build.
Our land is swampy and if a tree has fallen blocking trail, turning around often leads to getting stuck. So front attachment point of some sort was planned.
From the reading & advice, the steering could use reinforcement to help with handling... like you mentioned. One of the reasons for pulling the trigger on Boostwerks comp mount winch kit & sector shaft pillow block.

It arrived today and first impression is great.
Stainless flip up license plate bracket also arrived today.

Also got the C-Rock steering box spacer.


HD Offroad bolt on shackle relocation boxes arrived and they look good.

Any advice on the height adjustable shackles?

 

[b16gsr]

I checked out your build on Cherokee Forum before Black Beauty # 2 sold on BAT.
Been wondering why you didn't build that one as driver?

My daughter really likes blue, like the one you have and we looked at one.
It was rust free, nice original paint & ran good, but I think it was used as a doghouse at one time.

First off it was black, I do not do black vehicles especially with the roads around here. Nothing stays clean especially black, and I grew up as a kid cleaning black cars and refuse to do it again. haha.

I love the Gunmetal Pearl its a great color. One of the reasons I bought the 2 door was this color and the window wings.

I am looking forward to your build.

 

[Red Mistress]

Gonna try out the Ironman adjustable shackles.

And get 2.5" rear springs, to get level stance.

Think got everything for this mild build figured out.

Daughter got license yesterday so she's after me to get started

 

[Johnnie Walker]

On the point of frame stiffeners, just do it.
Even driving on road it makes a difference. One less thing you have to deal with in the future.

 

[Red Mistress]

Went Jeep shopping, no more D35

 

[Red Mistress]

Got truck unloaded and steam cleaned the D44 axle.

Popped the cover and suprise ... Trac-lock

 

[Anak]

Forget the D44... That looks like some awesome shop space.

 

[Red Mistress]

Thanks, I have a-lot of fun working in the shop. Watching TV is no way spend life.
Trying to get Excursion front axle stretch finished so I have room for Black Beauty build.

So the D35 brake hose mount to axle tube is different than D44.
I've searched for D44 swap, but believe it or not there is not much info here.

What's cleanest way to do rear brake hose from frame to axle tube?

 

[smccollamjr]

Should be able to buy a brake line for an XJ (maybe even a TJ) with a D44.

 

[Red Mistress]

Need longer hose than stock due to 3.5" lift.

I found where the YJ hoses are little bit longer and work with 4" of lift.

XJ D44 has vent seperate from the brake junction block.

the vent is plastic fitting on XJ D44

Also trying to figure out if stock D35 emergency brake cables will swap onto the D44 ?

And if the wheel cylinders are same bore on D35 & D44.
XJ D44 has 10"x 2.5" wide drums... vs.... D35 9" drums.
If wheel cylinder if different do I need different Master Cylinder or proportioning valve?

 

[Johnnie Walker]

Wheel cylinder probably different.
Brake cables should work.
Booster and master should be fine.
I believe YJ or Dakota line, for off the shelf should work.
Or, you could give Russ P a cal. He makes very nice ss braided lines.

 

[Red Mistress]

Really on the fence about doing rear disc brake swap on this D44.
I read both good and bad reports of performance, I could spend eternity on reading about the swap from drum to disc.
Who makes the best all new parts and most reliable kit ?
Looks like Teraflex has the emergency brake cables.


Decisions Decisions Decisions Decisions Decisions Decisions Decisions .....


Looked under stock CJ-8 Scrambler and rear brake hose junction block is same setup as XJ D44 and is 18" long vs XJ 13".


Did a trial fit of Quadratec aluminum wheels and don't get much thread engagement with stock wheel studs. Which are about 1" exposed thread.

How long of wheel lug stud ?
I read that ZJ studs are longer.... Dorman 610-234

If I do decide go for the rear disc, think I will have to go even longer wheel studs.


This never ends......

 

[tumble]

I used the Teraflex disc conversion of my 8.25. I chose it for convenience and because they don't require a proportioning valve change. I'm not sure I'd use their kit again if given the opportunity. I think I'd order fresh parts individually for the KJ and the adjustable proportioning valve from Summit. I wrote some notes from my installation here: https://naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1150016

I absolutely needed to use longer wheel studs. I used NAPA Belkamp #6413204

 

[Red Mistress]

I used the Teraflex disc conversion of my 8.25. I chose it for convenience and because they don't require a proportioning valve change. I'm not sure I'd use their kit again if given the opportunity. I think I'd order fresh parts individually for the KJ and the adjustable proportioning valve from Summit. I wrote some notes from my installation here: https://naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1150016

I absolutely needed to use longer wheel studs. I used NAPA Belkamp #6413204

Thanks for the reply,
Besides maintenance work of drums, does the disc stop better?

How did the emergency brake cables fit? Can you reuse the cable to differential clamp to hold in place like factory?

If you have time, I would really appreciate pictures of cable routing of underside and especially how it stays off exhaust pipe.

I'm all about convenience and having everything on hand and new quality parts, so extra expense of kit form is worth something.

Bonus... Teraflex calipers are yellow zinc plated to match theme of this build.

Stu has good write-up also:
https://www.stu-offroad.com//suspension/d44brake/bc-5.htm

I also read about ZJ prop valve spring & cap swap for rear disc.



:eyes:

 

[tumble]

> Besides maintenance work of drums, does the disc stop better?
I really haven't noticed any significant improvement in stopping distance. Unfortunately I added fairly heavy sliders as part of the same project and so I don't have meaningful dry pavement stopping distances to share. The little XJ feels stable and predictable under hard braking, but I can't say it's significantly different than when it had drums. The pedal feel is progressive and pretty firm. I haven't had it in enough snow to really notice any brake bias problems. I've certainly not noticed any on pavement or gravel.

In theory the disc conversion would help retain a broken axle shaft for these c-clip 8.25s too. Maybe at least enough to limp to a trailhead.

> How did the emergency brake cables fit?
I ordered the Teraflex cables, a right and left one. They are fine, and were long enough that I've got good routing above the axle and out of the way. I'll try to send along some photos.

With the Teraflex kit, I seem to remember that it's a caliper from a 1996+ Ford Explorer and a disc from a TJ Rubicon.

I ran my hard lines and new flexible lines almost identically to the photos in this article from 4 Wheeler. http://www.fourwheeler.com/how-to/0709-4wd-teraflex-jeep-disc-brake-conversion/photo-01.html I was able to cut and reflare the passenger side, and the driver side is new from the splitter valve.

 

[smccollamjr]

On my last XJ I went from an 8.25 with drums to an 8.8 with discs. I didn’t notice any big difference in stopping distance and never got the e-brake to work right. That’s the reason I haven’t upgraded the D44 on my TJ to discs. What is making a difference in stopping distance is my 35s. I’m thinking of going with the Vancouver big brake kit on the front to help with that.