Your Oil Recomendation
- Thread starter solditforajeep
- Start date
holy old thread batman! good info though for sure.
i think your problem is more related to what kind of oil filter you use. if your oil filter has a working anti-backflow valve then you should not get any dry starts. i find wix, napa(made by wix) and purolator filters work great. fram are no good, last time i used one i got bad lifter tick at startup.
that said, i think there are benefits to running a thicker deisel oil. i use castrol gtx 15w40 deisel and it works great, my higher mileage 4.0 seems to run much smoother with it and so far i have no leaks at all. the most important thing for the 4.0 is to make sure you get an sl rated oil with the proper amounts of zddp(which is pretty much what this entire thread is about).
winterbeater
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Royal Oak, Michigan
The thinnest oil you can put in it will feed through the engine faster on start up. That is where most of the wear occurs. Now with a decent synthetic oil, we can get both good cold oil flow and good high temp protection. 5W-40 or 0W-40 synthetic (with enough ZDDP) would theoretically give the best protection.
MichiganXJ
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- SE Michigan
I'll preface by apologizing if the answer to this was already given directly or implicitly, but is Shell Rotella T 10W-30 still a good choice (in terms of ZDDP levels)?
My XJ is a 2000 4.0 with 154,000. I don't want to switch to synthetic due to slight RMS/pan leaks and the Jeep is mostly a daily driver so I'd like to avoid the mileage penalty of 15W-40. I live in SE Michigan-we probably won't see much more sub-freezing temperatures this year.
My XJ is a 2000 4.0 with 154,000. I don't want to switch to synthetic due to slight RMS/pan leaks and the Jeep is mostly a daily driver so I'd like to avoid the mileage penalty of 15W-40. I live in SE Michigan-we probably won't see much more sub-freezing temperatures this year.
- Location
- WA state
Rotella T.. IS SYNTHETIC! And what "mileage penalty" are you speaking of? My XJ with almost 200k on it, runs better with 40weight. And also gets slightly better mielage due to the Amsoil full syn. that I run. If 30weight works for you, great.
MichiganXJ
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- SE Michigan
Oh. I thought Rotella T was a conventional, and that Rotella T5 and T6 were the blend and full synthetic, respectively.
I also figured there would be a reduction in mileage if I went with 15W-40. I have 30psi at hot idle with 10W-30 so I figured I would keep using it.
I also figured there would be a reduction in mileage if I went with 15W-40. I have 30psi at hot idle with 10W-30 so I figured I would keep using it.
JNickel101
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Alamogordo, NM
You're right, Rotella T does come in conventional...and synthetic
JW has just been drinking too much tonight
Conventional:
Synthetic:
Nothing wrong with sticking with 10w-30. I ran 15w-40 in my XJ, but that's b/c of the desert
JW has just been drinking too much tonight
Conventional:
Synthetic:
Nothing wrong with sticking with 10w-30. I ran 15w-40 in my XJ, but that's b/c of the desert
- Location
- WA state
Well it was my understanding that the Rotella T (non-syn) is actually a blend, even tho it does not say on the bottle.
Ecomike
NAXJA# 2091
- Location
- MilkyWay Galaxy
I have been able to find and get AZ 20W50, SL grade oil pretty cheap.
But I have not been able to find any of the old CH only grade diesel engine formula in nearly a year now!:rattle:It is all CJ grade now, with less ZDDP.
But I have not been able to find any of the old CH only grade diesel engine formula in nearly a year now!:rattle:It is all CJ grade now, with less ZDDP.
JNickel101
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Alamogordo, NM
The silver bottle (T5) is the blend. Blue bottle full syn, white bottle, conventional.
eace:(*~*) lost
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- represent yo ^_^
what's up with the Mopar filter at wallmart, oem or fram in black with big m on the side? looks good tho:eyes:
joe_peters
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Grants Pass, OryGun
I use Wix or NAPA Gold--they are the same.
How much is your engine worth? Your time to change or rebuild it? I can think of a few places where I go cheap on my rides--the air freshener, the soap I use to wash it, the tire dressing.
I NEVER go cheap on things that can (and usually will) end up causing major problems and costing me money.
Caveat emptor.
How much is your engine worth? Your time to change or rebuild it? I can think of a few places where I go cheap on my rides--the air freshener, the soap I use to wash it, the tire dressing.
I NEVER go cheap on things that can (and usually will) end up causing major problems and costing me money.
Caveat emptor.
JNickel101
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Alamogordo, NM
Hard to say - looks like different MOPAR filters are made by different companies. Use at your own risk - some look well made, others look like Fram copies.
http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilters/mopar.html
Can't go wrong with a NAPA Gold/WIX filter though...
EDIT: another study...
http://people.msoe.edu/~yoderw/oilfilterstudy/oilfilters.html
http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilters/mopar.html
Can't go wrong with a NAPA Gold/WIX filter though...
EDIT: another study...
http://people.msoe.edu/~yoderw/oilfilterstudy/oilfilters.html
Ecomike
NAXJA# 2091
- Location
- MilkyWay Galaxy
K&N is the only filter I trust and use now.
MichiganXJ
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- SE Michigan
I typically use Napa Gold as well, but my faith in them was shaken by the one I used in my last oil change. I know enough to only hand tighten filters, but this one was stuck for some reason. The filter casing crushed like a wad of tissue when I put the strap wrench on it. I've never seen a filter casing collapse so easily.
I hope Napa isn't using a cheaper supplier in these tough economic times.
joe_peters
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Grants Pass, OryGun
The only filter wrench that really doesn't damage a tight filter when removing are those "cap" types: http://www.amazon.com/OEM-25404-Filter-Wrench-67mm/dp/B000CMHKY0
Strap, chain, single or multi-jaw, or big honking pliers do damage--unless the filter wasn't tightened enough in the first place. Of course, if it wasn't leaking it was on tight enough.
EDIT: Wix still lists NAPA Gold as their product on the Wix website.
Strap, chain, single or multi-jaw, or big honking pliers do damage--unless the filter wasn't tightened enough in the first place. Of course, if it wasn't leaking it was on tight enough.
EDIT: Wix still lists NAPA Gold as their product on the Wix website.
MichiganXJ
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- SE Michigan
I agree-the wrench is far from a perfect solution. I was just very surprised-I've never seen a filter so mangled, and I wouldn't have expected that it would be a Wix that got so chewed up.
joe_peters
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Grants Pass, OryGun
The early 80s Volvo 240 turbos would cook the filter to the engine--I've still got burn scars from some of those.
- Location
- Aransas Pass, Texas
Old thread, I know.
Last month I changed to Rotella T6 synthetic 5-40. The engine has ~200k. Have had it on two wheeling trips, as well as driving to work each day since the change.
Cold starts are much better than the Valvoline 10-30. No lifter noise etc on cold (17 degree) starts. Oil pressure at temp on the highway and at idle are quite nice. Warm start-ups are better too, a bit less on the long renix cranking time.
The most amazing thing to me: On conventional oil, at idle it sounded like I had a mild cam. After running it hard on this oil, the idle is almost too good to be true. Very smooth, and nice exhaust not. Gone is the sound on a mild cam.
Overall, quite pleased with the oil. The only downside is a slight increase in oil leaks. I know I have to do the valve cover (have the stuff to do that) and the oil filter adapter o-rings. Neither surprised me though.
I will spend the extra money on the oil next change, likely in the spring.
Last month I changed to Rotella T6 synthetic 5-40. The engine has ~200k. Have had it on two wheeling trips, as well as driving to work each day since the change.
Cold starts are much better than the Valvoline 10-30. No lifter noise etc on cold (17 degree) starts. Oil pressure at temp on the highway and at idle are quite nice. Warm start-ups are better too, a bit less on the long renix cranking time.
The most amazing thing to me: On conventional oil, at idle it sounded like I had a mild cam. After running it hard on this oil, the idle is almost too good to be true. Very smooth, and nice exhaust not. Gone is the sound on a mild cam.
Overall, quite pleased with the oil. The only downside is a slight increase in oil leaks. I know I have to do the valve cover (have the stuff to do that) and the oil filter adapter o-rings. Neither surprised me though.
I will spend the extra money on the oil next change, likely in the spring.
Jeepguy03
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Connecticut
Few questions after reading the whole thread....
Even though ZDDP has been taken out of oil due to Gov't mandates, is there something being put in place of it to help protect engines? For example, I remember reading somewhere that Valvoline Synpower has a formula that does not have as much ZDDP as SL rated oils, but in turn has something else that makes it good for flat tappet cams. I can't recall everything I read in the article as it was some time ago. If you think about it, wouldn't the companies have to put something in the oils that make it lubricate better (since oils are improving) otherwise they would have many lawsuits over destroyed engines. I know most modern engines don't use flat tappets, but think about how many millions of 4.0L's are on the road...
For example, the chemical properties of synthetic make it have better lubricating properties than conventional oil, would these better oil formulations have enough lubricating properties that ZDDP wouldn't be needed? Yes ZDDP has been known as a good lubricant in the past for flat tappets, but is there something in current oils that does the same thing?
Has there been any known cam failures do to using SM rated oils, seeing how the average person probably isn't aware of the issue, and most oils on store shelves are SM rated oils?
Is there any known ZDDP additives that you can buy and add to SM rated oils?
Not trying to question everyones beliefs by any means, I just don't hear of many 4.0 cam failures considering how many forums I am a part of and how many jeeps I am around. You would think oils would be made to lubricate more, not less. I've been wrong before though. :roll:
Edit: there also seems to be a big controversy over this issue. Some make it sound like if you buy SM rated oil that the jeep will blow at 100k miles while others (namely Bob is the oil guy Forum) make it sound like the 4.0L doesn't really seem to care what oil it has in it.
Even though ZDDP has been taken out of oil due to Gov't mandates, is there something being put in place of it to help protect engines? For example, I remember reading somewhere that Valvoline Synpower has a formula that does not have as much ZDDP as SL rated oils, but in turn has something else that makes it good for flat tappet cams. I can't recall everything I read in the article as it was some time ago. If you think about it, wouldn't the companies have to put something in the oils that make it lubricate better (since oils are improving) otherwise they would have many lawsuits over destroyed engines. I know most modern engines don't use flat tappets, but think about how many millions of 4.0L's are on the road...
For example, the chemical properties of synthetic make it have better lubricating properties than conventional oil, would these better oil formulations have enough lubricating properties that ZDDP wouldn't be needed? Yes ZDDP has been known as a good lubricant in the past for flat tappets, but is there something in current oils that does the same thing?
Has there been any known cam failures do to using SM rated oils, seeing how the average person probably isn't aware of the issue, and most oils on store shelves are SM rated oils?
Is there any known ZDDP additives that you can buy and add to SM rated oils?
Not trying to question everyones beliefs by any means, I just don't hear of many 4.0 cam failures considering how many forums I am a part of and how many jeeps I am around. You would think oils would be made to lubricate more, not less. I've been wrong before though. :roll:
Edit: there also seems to be a big controversy over this issue. Some make it sound like if you buy SM rated oil that the jeep will blow at 100k miles while others (namely Bob is the oil guy Forum) make it sound like the 4.0L doesn't really seem to care what oil it has in it.
