Your Oil Recomendation

89xj said:
what 4.0 doesnt leak oil from either the rms, valve cover, or oil filter adapter?
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Uhh, MINE! But it has new seals, LOL. 253,000 miles and counting!!!

OH, and if it is feed synthetic it developes a huge sudden oil apettite, that it does not have with dyno oil.
 
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Ok, I feel I can actually contribute to this posting...

For anyone who has been interested in this thread, questions have been raised of Shell Rotella T and whether it's still a good substitute now that it also qualifies for API-SM standards. Aparently the answer is YES!

I'm not totally sure how, but shell managed to qualify for both CJ-4 and SM while not really qualifying for API-SM...

http://www.highperformancepontiac.com/tech/hppp_0802_pontiac_performance_engine_oil/comp_cams.html

The top of the page goes into some detail about Rotella T, immediately following the description, High Performance Pontiac (the website) sits down for a fireside chat with Shell's OEM Technical Service Manager. At this time, however, I do not know if this includes Rotella T - triple protection

He stated (paraphrasing) that diesel catalyst requirements are different than gasoline requirements, as a result they are able to keep the amount of zinc at 1200 ppm (down from 1400 ppm) and maintain a high level of ZDDP (whatever high means)

They said nothing about phosphorous levels, however...

FWIW
 
MAY POP said:
Good quality filter,Puralator,Mobil One,K&N ect. NO FRAM JUNK! Tnen 10w40 incold weather Major brand. In hot weather 15w40 Rotella. This will help keep leaks to a minimum. Stay away from synthics they will make leaks worse. 5w20 or 30 is to thin for your older engine. Just learn to let the engine warm up a few moments before reving it up and slaming it into gear. Meijer used to carry the Purolater filters dont know if they still do. Keep experimenting and you will learn to make your jeep last a long time.
Ron
Click to expand...

Not sure if this even still matters anymore in this thread but the Meijers in the Indianapolis area do NOT carry Purolator filters anymore, just Fram. If you want Purolator around here, you've got to go to a Pep Boys or Advantage Auto Parts. I used a Mobil One filter a couple years ago in a pinch and when I replaced it with the Purolator Pureone filter the main thing I noticed was that the holes in the baseplate were larger and more numerous in the Purolator. The Mobil filter was heavier, and more expensive, but for now I'm sticking with the Pureone filter. I haven't dissected a filter lately, so I can't offer any info there. I also haven't looked carefully at the formulation of the oil I use, that being the Wal-Mart SynTech full synthetic brand. When I purchased my XJ used it had about 51,000 miles on it. I switched to Valvoline Synthetic and at 83,000 miles I lost a rod bearing. After replacing the engine I went to the SynTech after a break in period. I'm not willing to shell out the cash for Amsoil or Mobil One, I'm up to about 36,000 miles now and so far so good. With 31's and gas being almost $4 a gallon around here I'm only driving the Jeep about once or twice a week, or when I need to tow or haul somthing. Which may make the oil I use a moot point anyway as I'm looking at about 2,000 miles every 6 months. Very sad I know, but when you work for the city, you have to make some hard choices...:spam:
 
XJ Stryker said:
I recommend a Fram filter and some penzoil 5w-30. Run it for 5000 miles between changes




:roflmao:
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Why only 5,000 miles, better yet, just run it till !!!1

:laugh:
 
Ecomike said:
Why only 5,000 miles, better yet, just run it till !!!1

:laugh:
Click to expand...


Isn't that 5000 miles???? But I would go with the 20w-50 for extra chunkiness....


:wave: :party: :smootch: :lecture: :pirate1: hasta :soapbox: :worship: :rtm: :scared: :cheers:

Added a whole of smilies to show clearly I am joking and wouldn't even run that combo in Chevy.....
 
Ok so I have spent an hour or two trying to figure out what all this stuff means. I went to walmart today and was surprised to find that the only SL m1 oil I could find was 10w40 hi/mi. I almost bought 15w50 but it was SM rated. When I went to m1's website I found that 10w40 has 1000 ppm. 15w50 has 1200ppm this is the highest they offer because of new regulations apparently. SO my question is should I stick with 10w40 hi/mi or move to 15w50 at the next oil change? Is 200 ppm that much of a difference? And does it outweigh the benefits of hi/mi additives? Thanks in advance.
 
Castrol Diesel 15w40 nuff said...

If I were choosing between the two you just mentioned, I'd go with the 15w 50. The 4.0 likes the thick stuff. especially higher millage 4.0s
 
I see no better oil than Mobil 1 Full Synthetic High Milage 10-30 OR 10-40. It is SL rated (1000ppm) and can be had at Walmat pretty cheap. Unless your 4.0 leaks like a sieve (a whole 'nother problem) this has to be the best and most easily accessed oil. If you don't think 1000 is enough, change it more freqently (3000mi) or add half a STP oil treatment with the oil.

Engine runs significantly smoother with synthetic. my .02
 
nootay said:
anyone have thoughts on SuperTech oil at walmart?
Click to expand...

Scroll up a little and you can read my limited experience with the SuperTech Synthetic. I'm on a serious budget, and can't even afford to drive my Jeep more than a couple times a week. I still spring for the PureOne filters(air&oil), but go cheap anywhere else that I can. I'm not pushing my engine hard, so I'm basically going on the hope that even Sam's Choice Synthetic is better than ANY non synthetic. I'm sure that time will tell, but so far, so good :dunno:
 
The rep at valvoline recommends valvoline VR1 racing oil in all engines with flat tappet cams especially the jeep 4.0. VR1 has 1300 ppm of zinc and a high level of zddp. Knowing this I changed the oil on both jeeps yesterday with ZR1 10w30 and the one that made noise has quieted down some and runs smoother. The other jeep didnt make any noise before and it still doesnt but i swear it has more power and runs alot smoother during the start up period
 
whompinxj said:
i swear it has more power and runs alot smoother during the start up period
Click to expand...

That is true after almost any oil change even when you are not switching brands, the fresh clean thick oil makes it run better. Everyone will have a favorite oil, and every company rep will tell you which oil of his brand you should use. they will never ALL be the same brand. to each his own.
 
I run whatever I have laying around or left over from other vehicles in the XJ, and I went 13 months between oil changes. Oops, it was only about 6k miles though so I'm not worried about it.

I haven't broke down and run any of the left over 5w20 in it yet, but I'm tempted to mix it in.
 
xj88superjeep said:
That is true after almost any oil change even when you are not switching brands, the fresh clean thick oil makes it run better. Everyone will have a favorite oil, and every company rep will tell you which oil of his brand you should use. they will never ALL be the same brand. to each his own.
Click to expand...

Since I work at a quick lube I change my oil about every 500 to 1000 miles and have never noticed a difference afterwards, this is the first time. If anything, new, thick oil will lubricate and protect your engine better, but hinder your engines performance by slowing the crankshaft down. In fact a lot of drag racers will run 2 to 3 quarts less oil for a pass to keep crankshaft speed up. Of course the rep is going to try to promote his product but he doesnt have to, the levels of zinc and zddp speak for themselves. The gentleman I spoke with seemed very educated on the subject. I also asked him about other brands and he said as long as they have the same ratings that I will be fine.
 
I put Shell Rotella T 15w40 in both my Volvo 240 and my 2.5l Jeep. They don't complain. Because I threaten them.
 
What a fun and exaushting thread to read. Almost as entertaining as "What is a REAL XJ?" I'll add my two cents.

Regarding ZDDP levels, flat tappets and other things, I found this interesting forum post from late last year:

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1049812

Regarding filters, I'll bump this link from earlier in the thread because I thought it was an awsome, indepth investigation:

http://www.knizefamily.net/minimopar/oilfilters/reference.html#champion


Based on everything I've read, I'm going to flush with a can of Seafoam in the crankcase for about 75 miles, then run Either Mobil 1 High Mileage Synthetic or Valvoline MaxLife Synthetic (10w-30 of whichever's easiest to find) and a Mobil 1 filter ($5 at local Kragen what a deal!) Maybe some Marvel Mystery oil for the first change just to help flush out some gunk.

After reading and researching I will no longer use engine flushes except this one time "car is new to me" Seafoam treatment (seems much gentler than the "5 min don't rev the engine above 400 rpm's because a lepracauhn will pop outaa my ass and clog the exahust bearing rotater gyro" stuff) and if it leaks with synthetic then I'll probably do something half assed like pour some Lucas in there because I'm too broke to fix the seals so I'll just resludge the engine to plug 'em up because I'm ok with sludge as long as I paid $5.99 for it and get to pour it in the crankcase myself.

Haven't heard a lot of cred given to Valvoline Max Life (dino oil/synthetic blend version), so I will say that up to this point I've used it in every POS hoopty mistreated engine I've ever had with good results. I blew a head gasket in a old beat up Ford Escort once, and the mechanic actually told me it was one of the cleanest heads he'd ever seen.

For reference I'm running an '89 233k 4.0 that seems well taken care of, bottom end doesn't leak a drop.

So there's my two cents, along with about a nickel of borrowed knowlege. Hooray for me I'm doing my first synthetic oil change! I really just wanted to be in the syn club...:cool:
 
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