Your Oil Recomendation

So are you saying that Harley guys should start running 4.0Ls on their bikes? Cause I know their shit is always breaking :D
 
JNickel101 said:
So are you saying that Harley guys should start running 4.0Ls on their bikes? Cause I know their shit is always breaking :D
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So much truth behind that statement:laugh3: My next door neighbor's Harley sits more than it moves, but brokedown Jeeps are hard to come by in these parts;)



I'll be grabbing some MI "HM" 10w40 I guess today for my first oil change. Couldnt get any difiinitive answer between the 10w30 and 10w40 thing:(
 
What are you saying, Harleys run GREAT..


























in the back of a pickup truck..
 
Bleh, no M1 filters available, had to go with a Mopar filter. Hope I didnt choose unwisely. Only other choice was Fram Extended Wear.

Keep in mind please guys, I am female and a lot of this stuff is new to me. Researched has helped tremendously as has this forum. I love this 95 Cherokee, it is so strong and solid for a 13 year old vehicle.

Thanks:)
 
After reading through this thread I decided to do a little reasearch at the local auto parts stores and found that Autozone is selling a brand called Valucraft that is SL rated and sells for $1.99 a quart. They carry both 10-30 and 10-40 and the label reads "Suitable for use in 2004 and prior vehicles". The SL rating is the same as the Mobil 1 High Mileage so I am assuming it carries the higher Zinc levels.
 
desertrandy said:
After reading through this thread I decided to do a little reasearch at the local auto parts stores and found that Autozone is selling a brand called Valucraft that is SL rated and sells for $1.99 a quart. They carry both 10-30 and 10-40 and the label reads "Suitable for use in 2004 and prior vehicles". The SL rating is the same as the Mobil 1 High Mileage so I am assuming it carries the higher Zinc levels.
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Yes... SL rated oils will have the higher levels of zinc and phosphorus. But I would be a bit concerned with the levels of the rest of the additive package at $1.99 a quart.
 
On my 96 w/ 74K, I used M1 hi-mi 10w40(they were out of 10w30) and my oil pressure was 55-75. I just recently used 10w30 hi-mi and my pressure is 40-70, so I feel a little better.
 
'88 xj 4.0, 186k . I'm still running any new 10-40 , heck I don't care that it's SM rated, with a bottle and a half of STP red. Oil pressure has maintained 40-50 warm at idle since last change. Got thru an admittedly mild winter here in the Northeast without any crank problems. Embarrassed to admit, going on 10,000 miles....
 
It's too bad I won't be using m1 10w30 hi-mi during the break-in of the stroker cause that is an awesome deal @ AA and my bro can get 20% more off that(It'd be like paying the normal $10 for the M301 filter and $2.50 per qt. for some good synth!).
 
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Gets pretty cold there in the winter ya? Might want to use a 5w-30 or something when the temp drops below freezing....
 
gradon said:
It's too bad I won't be using m1 10w30 hi-mi during the break-in of the stroker cause that is an awesome deal @ AA and my bro can get 20% more off that(It'd be like paying the normal $10 for the M301 filter and $2.50 per qt. for some good synth!).
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Go buy it, the oil won't go bad, I stock up twice a year at walmart, usually 10 5 quart containers, that covers pretty much the whole fleet here. Lets face it, it probably won't get any cheaper.
 
I know--and I still plan on using the 301 filter. I just wanted to use the Brad Penn 30wt break-in oil and still haven't bought the case of it yet(so I should spend my money there first). I guess a good alternative would be to use 5 qts of M1 and a qt of EOS for the first couple changes.
 
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gradon said:
It's too bad I won't be using m1 10w30 hi-mi during the break-in of the stroker cause that is an awesome deal @ AA and my bro can get 20% more off that(It'd be like paying the normal $10 for the M301 filter and $2.50 per qt. for some good synth!).
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Using synthetic oil during engine break in is a No No,The oil is so slippery that the rings will not seat.
I wittnessed this first hand when I worked in the Aircraft industry, A gentleman filled the oil tank on his recently overhauled Cessna with Texaco synthetic oil, Most of it slipped past the rings & burned up on the first run, He thought the engine was FUBAR until he mentioned the use of synthetic oil, The Tank was refilled with standard Dino oil & all was well.
 
garr said:
Using synthetic oil during engine break in is a No No,The oil is so slippery that the rings will not seat.
I wittnessed this first hand when I worked in the Aircraft industry, A gentleman filled the oil tank on his recently overhauled Cessna with Texaco synthetic oil, Most of it slipped past the rings & burned up on the first run, He thought the engine was FUBAR until he mentioned the use of synthetic oil, The Tank was refilled with standard Dino oil & all was well.
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Your exactly right. I talked to a Comp Cams technician at a race last summer, and he said they use (and NASCAR) Shell Rotella T for engine break in. Synthetic should NEVER be used for engine break in, not even a blend. I have used 30 weight non-detergent, becuase some camshaft manufacturers have had good results in testing.
 
. . .thus why I'm going w/ Brad Penn for the first year, so sorry about saying the Mobil 1 was a good alternative(maybe after 2k miles).
 
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