Yet another lift kit thread - OME vs Others

[WesWood151]

I've got a '98 Limited, 2" budget lift, transfer case drop, Smittybilt front/rear/rock slider/tire carrier bumper set, 170k miles, 31x10.5 duratracs & planning on a 9-10k winch.

I want a comfortable daily driver that I can count on for forest service/fire roads and in upstate NY snow. I'd like to net 3.5-4"s of lift over stock. I plan on eventually delving into heavier wheeling when I can afford adequate armor on the underside.

So to the questions;
1. OME Springs - I've read the claims that OME springs "cannot be beat for ride quality", exsphinctera, exsphintera. I have also noticed a significant lack of any claims on ride by any other spring provider. So, does anyone have enough personal experience with OME and other springs to back up these claims?

2. I've found two main suppliers of OME "kits" (other suggestions would be appreciated). I've read great reviews of DPG customer service and the exact opposite for Rocky Road Outfitters. Problem is, I can get roughly the same components from RRO for about $150 less, but I'm willing to shell out that $150 for good product support. Can anyone testify to the value of DPGs support vs. the lack there of with RRO?

3. OME shock absorbers - I've read tons of opinions of OME vs. Bilistein for instance. Frankly, I'm a little underwhelmed by the testimonies of OME. Most folks with Bilisteins love them and the same for OME, but very few can attest to the difference. Can any of you say that OME is worth the extra $150 for all four corners over Bilistein 5100s? (I'm interested in other monotube shocks that may be in this range as well)

4. Extra Credit - If you had build a "lift kit" around OME springs (or comparable) that would compare to DPGs '3.5" HD Ultimate XJ Old Man Emu Hybrid Kit' in components (http://dpgoffroad.com/products/22-5-inch-ultimate-xj-old-man-emu-hybrid-kit-2/), what would you use? If I could get it below a grand, I'd be ecstatic.

For reference, here's what the ($1,359 before shipping) DPG 3.5" HD Ultimate XJ Old Man Emu Hybrid Kit includes;
OME Sport Series Shocks
OME Coil Springs
OME Dual Rate Leaf Springs
JKS Quicker Disconnects
JKS Adj Trackbar
DPG Swaybar Disco Cables
DPG Front Extended Bumpstops
DPG HD Adjustable Rear Bumpstop Plates (DPGBP-3)
Leaf Spring Bushings
DPG HD U-Bolt Kit

Thanks ahead of time, I know this is a truly worn topic, but I know there is a wealth of knowledge here on forums.

 

[md21722]

My understanding is that Bilstein shocks tend to provide a firmer ride than OME.

I have a 2.5-3" OME setup on my 97 XJ. On the rocky trails and washboard which are fairly common here there is no bone jarring or teeth rattling. You will hear the washboard, like the back hatch panel vibrating, but it doesn't come through the seat.

It seems that most people who mention "daily driver" and "forest roads" are steered towards OME and often buy it if their wallet allows. I think most of these folks put the lift on with 30-31" tires and then drive it for the rest of the time they have their Jeep. For the most part they stop posting on here unless they have a mechanical problem.

I'll add that the lift will change your driveshaft angle and you may find a need for a SYE and double cardan driveshaft and some 4-6 degree shims, so I'd allow for that in your budget. Transfer case drops are cheap and easy, but put extra strain on your engine mounts, and will force your exhaust down unless you have the mount at the transmission/cross member adjusted.

 

[WesWood151]

Thanks md,

I'm aware I may need to go the SYE route, but I'm going to see how the lift sits and go from there.

Where might I ask did you get your OME setup from?

-Wes

 

[ingenio]

Listen to md21722 ....well stated...

Bilsteins are firmer than OMEs, but not bone jarring. I have used both.
actually I have a set of Bilsteins 5100s for 3" lift never used...if interested please let me know.

Bilstein ride is similar to a 2500 chevy pick up truck, and OME would be a 1500 pickup truck...for comparison pursposes.

OME systems are 2.5" max lift...the additional lift comes from coil pads, extended shackle, etc..

Currently running a OME leaf pack with extended shackle & relocation bracket, ride quality is nice.

 

[md21722]

Where might I ask did you get your OME setup from?

-Wes

I went through DPG. I think when I priced it I could save $70 by piecing it together through what I considered other "reputable" vendors and concluded it wasn't worth the trouble, when if you had a question during install, you could pick up the phone and call Dirk.

You might consider a double shear track bar instead of the JKS. The JKS are good track bars but double shear is more or less preferred these days.

Also take note that with the JKS, you will need a 9/16" (IIRC) drill bit to drill the track bar mount slightly. And, for his front bump stops, you need a 13/32 (IIRC) drill and M10x1.5 tap (IIRC). Some people just use silicon adhesive and plain jane hockey pucks rather than his machined ones. All of this is included in the various instructions that you will receive from JKS and Dirk. The only thing that wasn't as described is the bolts for the front bump stops are described as "self tapping" but they weren't. I think I just went down to the local Ace and got some, which may be why I needed the M10x1.5 tap. It's such a common size I already had it.

You might check out Metal Cloak. They have an OME kit as well as some different style parts. I have never used any of their stuff but I haven't read anything bad about it either. Worth a look as an alternative.

Your biggest problems installing the lift are likely going to be getting your old springs out. Even if you start with the penetrant today, there's a good chance the bolts have seized to the inner sleeves of the bushings, and even if they haven't they might catch on rust in there as you start taking them out. I've changed springs on both my Jeeps. On one I cut the shackle off the bolt and the other I cut the old spring eye off. Some people cut the bolts and worst case is that you knock one of the weld nuts loose and have to cut into the frame box to put in another nut, etc. I figured it was easier to cut the spring and shackle (replaceable parts) than cut into the frame of the Jeep, but I don't have a welder either...

 

[iluv83vettes]

I originally got my set up from Dirk and am happy with the service I got from him. I forget what exact parts I got but the rear was taller than the front with stock bumpers, then much taller when I put the bull bar and winch on the front, and about level when I put on the tire carrier.

Since then, 37,000 miles ago, I have enjoyed it. Mostly DD duties, a few wheeling trips, a lot of camping trips, overloading it to move etc.

When my hubs went out at the same time my brakes were needing replacement, I did the WJ swap and built new steering arms and track bar from RuffStuff. I still need to get a Currie Anti-rock and modify it to fit around the track bar mount.

Now I have a JKS track bar and sway bar with JKS discos sitting in the garage. I still have the JKS arms in use, but plan on building long arms "when I get time". Mainly because I can't leave well enough alone.

 

[WesWood151]

Thanks guys,

Given that Dirk has gotten back to me twice within hours of asking a question and the resounding praise he gets across the board, its a safe bet he'll get my money. I'll have to discuss with him if I need all the heavy JKS bits. I don't skimp where safety is involved, but I could use a new muffler too, ect, ect.

As for Metal Cloak, they look great, but even more pricey...

And for the extra tools required, I can always talk myself into a new tool. What I can't create is more time, especially with my Jeep off the road as its my DD. I have been shooting my suspension bolts with PB blaster off and on for a couple months, the suspension was modded w/in the last 5 years or so AND I've loosened and re-torqued the leaf bolts in anticipation of this lift. I have already broken bolts on a TJ, so I'm taking every precaution I can on this one.

Another thing I'd like to do is replace every bushing I come in contact with. Any recommendation on a complete bushing kit? It looks like I'm going to have to go Poly and just hope it doesn't stiffen the ride too much.

-Wes

 

[iluv83vettes]

It isn't really worth the money to replace the bushings in the control arms. You can get new stock arms pretty cheap from places like RockAuto. As far as the leaf springs, Dirk includes bushings for them, or at least he did a couple years ago when I got mine. Those are really the only bushings you will come in contact with.

If I knew about the metalcloak stuff, I probably would have gone that route but I am not unhappy with the OME. I will probably get the MC 5" dual rate coils when I put long arms in and put in the shackle relocaters and shackles.

 

[WesWood151]

md,

Can you expand on the virtues of the "double shear" trackbar? From what I can tell, it replaces the greasable ball joint with a straight poly bearing. Problem is, it goes down the very slippery slope of more money$$. However, if it saves me heartache and fiddling with my suspension in the middle of winter, I could consider it.

-Wes

 

[iluv83vettes]

For the JKS bar you drill out the hole on the stock mount then bolt through the bar and mount. Potentially it will stretch out the drilled hole and need replacing after causing death wobble.

A double shear mount would have the bolt go through the mount, through the track bar, then through the mount again. Typically this is done with the bolt horizontal which allows for more flex at the joint and it is stronger.

I did not have a problem with the JKS bar mounted single shear and the only reason I changed was because of the WJ knuckle swap.

For mild wheeling and DD duties the JKS bar is plenty good.

 

[WesWood151]

iluv83vettes,

The real reason for the bushing swaps is to clean up the play in the 17 year old suspension. If I have to go a little out of the way to get at one while I'm under there, I'll do it. I've also got a mystery clunk when starting and stopping that I am trying to nail down. Want to rule out suspension before tearing my hubs apart.

-Wes

 

[md21722]

I haven't had any problems with my JKS either. With any of these just make sure you get the jam nut tight and keep a trail tool handy to tighten if it back off. JKS sells a handy tool for this. I would buy it at the time you purchase the track bar since shipping can be expensive. Channel locks may work OK.

 

[iluv83vettes]

Let me be a little bit more clear on the bushings. I would replace them all. I would just buy new control arms because they aren't much more and the ease of replacing just a control arm makes it worth it to me. The ones on the axle are harder to do but there are plenty of videos and threads on how to do it.

That mystery clunk could very well be a worn bushing. It also could be the u-joints in your front axle, especially if it happens when you are turning. The hubs make more of a grinding sound all the time and changes depending on speed.

 

[bentroia]

I purchased and installed the OME Ultimate Kit from DPG for my 97 with 31 inch goodyear adventure tires.

The spring rates (2930 and 33rb)are on the firm-sporty side (matched with the OME sport shocks). The jeep rides firm, but not harsh. It corners precisely on dirt and street. Lift amount has not sagged at all after over a year. 3.5 front and 4.25 rear. The jeep handles a load of camping gear and remains very stable and predictable.

DPG provides what I would call greta help at integration of all the necessary components to make the finished product fully functional. Bump stops, brake lines, linkages for securing disconnected swaybar ect. It is the integrated approach that brings the value to the service...

The OME shocks bolt in perfectly and are on the firm side. IMO... They are matched to the springs and provide a solid sport feel....

Doing it again...
-The brake lines provided by DPG were too long, I used shorted RE lines.
- A double shear track bar would be a better choice for simplicity and durability.
- The JKS control arms made knocking noises on my jeep, so I replaced them with Metal Claok. The MC arms solved a knocking noise that drove me bananas for months, bolted in perfectly and are super trick.
- I could not find a better way to secure the discos, so I finally bolted in the DPG models. They came out really cool and functional, following their excellent instructions.

Overall I am really pleased. I have high expectations of my jeep and do not want it to drive like farm equipment, so this all works very well for me.

PM me is you want to discuss directly over the phone.

 

[WesWood151]

Bentroia,

Thanks for the testimonial, but it sounds like he might have changed his kits up a little. The current one doesn't advertise any JKS control arms or brake lines. I'll have to call Dirk and see what I'm missing here... Or I could just be reading it wrong.

Very well put, "I have high expectations of my Jeep, and do not want it to drive like farm equipment". My sentiments exactly.

-Wes

 

[iluv83vettes]

The "Super Ultimate kit" has the control arms.

 

[md21722]

The adjustment on the LCA's is about 5/16 longer at 2.5". Uppers don't change at the sane time. The adjustment is to preserve pinion and caster angles. If you used your stock LCA's I'm not sure you could tell a difference at low lift amounts which is why Dirk probably does t include them. However, most aftermarket are much more stout than factory style and may offer additional flex. There's s chart online on poster elsewhere on this forum for exact measurements. I have JKS lowers but I think they're expensive. If I kept short arms on my other Jeep I'd probably look hard at other vendors.

 

[bwinter1946]

I bought this kit in a 4 inch lift: http://dpgoffroad.com/products/44-5-inch-super-ultimate-xj-old-man-emu-hybrid-kit/

Expensive: Yes.

Worth it: Yes

It is without a doubt the best riding 4X4 I have ever been in stock or modified.

I left the rear sway bar on and it handles very well. Specs are listed below in my signature. No regrets for having purchased this kit. FWIW I have 40,000 miles on it since the install in 2009. I would buy this kit again in a heart beat.

I have since replaced the M/T with A/T BFGs.

 

[bigalpha]

bwinter, that's a sweet looking XJ.

 

[WesWood151]

Yeah Bwinter, I've pretty much made up my mind to go with the HD 3.5 kit. I just keep hearing too many good things. I'm not likely to go long arm or anything too much crazier in the future, so this will be my major investment in my suspension. Great looking Jeep though. What's that rear bumper? I went with the Smittybilt XRC front, rear and sliders, just couldn't pass up the package price, but I'd love to pair that rear bumper with an ARB though.