Yet another... Build thread for an xj on 40s and one tons in norcal

Dave flat out kicks ass, best vendor out there by far.

Yeah I literally use him for parts on all three rigs. Cool guy best prices and fast shipping
 
John, iv got what could be a great idea for your steering!! Too late to explain right now but I will in the morning. Sending this to hopefully remind myself to post the idea, been trying to get around to it since monday
 
Tcase was fubar. Shift form was gone and I broke the case opening it up .

The lower fork was missing the little pads.the upper part was totally gone


What's left of the upper fork- nothing

 
Tons of metal in the case and on the magnet. Tons
 
good news:
I have to run a 1" spacer with the atlas. so 14.8" length not 13.8. helps .


my front DS is showing 1.25" of splines,5.5" of slip is showing total. so by pushing the front forward 1.5-2.25" the front DS will actually be perfect.

as for the rear, its showing 1.75" of splines, from my measurements, it should only show another 1.6 inches of splines and be perfect as is.

that being said, I plan to grab joshs old rear driveshaft just in case.
 
Tcase was fubar. Shift form was gone and I broke the case opening it up .

The lower fork was missing the little pads.the upper part was totally gone


What's left of the upper fork- nothing

Yea that's all bad! I'm glad I broke into my case one of my detents was laying on the magnet barely any oil in there. But my case split it's self apart once I loosened all the bolts lol
 
Here are some ideas to make your steering less touchy on the road. top center is a Y valve idea since all Y valves are like 50+ $ for one pice, but they are pretty easy to make. Just get two valves, an angled T piece, and some hose connectors. Now bottom left is idea number one, im 75% sure that this will work. On the high pressure side, it switches the fluid going into the ram to low pressure, allowing you to steer with the ram "off". Bottom middle is one that will work 100%, basically you shut off the rams high pressure and low pressure while creating a loop of fluid going in and out of the ram. This will have no pressure in the ram and allow you to steer without the hydro assist. Then when you get to the trail, flip the valves in the correct order and you get some badass hydro assist! Hope this helps :patriot:

Scan_zpswzvjlft8.jpeg


Scan.jpg
 
Interesting idea on the hydro.

As for the case cracking- it would not budge. And odd thing is I wasn't even applying pressure there. Which doesn't make sense that it broke there.

I was relieved to see the totally ruined shift fork and that I wasn't crazy

I can still sell the sye kit off it and the chain I guess to salvage some value
 
I would not even consider tying the high pressure output to the low pressure return line on the power steering pump. Sounds like a great way to pressurize the reservoir and blow fluid out. I'd suggest a larger ram as it will be less twitchy and stronger in the rocks. I ran a $100 tractor supply 2" ram on my old wagoneer with an unmodified, factory pump and never once thought the steering was too slow on the street.
 
I would not even consider tying the high pressure output to the low pressure return line on the power steering pump. Sounds like a great way to pressurize the reservoir and blow fluid out. I'd suggest a larger ram as it will be less twitchy and stronger in the rocks. I ran a $100 tractor supply 2" ram on my old wagoneer with an unmodified, factory pump and never once thought the steering was too slow on the street.


The high pressure does not go to the low pressure return, the high pressure is shut off and the low pressure goes to both sides of the ram.
 
I would not even consider tying the high pressure output to the low pressure return line on the power steering pump. Sounds like a great way to pressurize the reservoir and blow fluid out. I'd suggest a larger ram as it will be less twitchy and stronger in the rocks. I ran a $100 tractor supply 2" ram on my old wagoneer with an unmodified, factory pump and never once thought the steering was too slow on the street.

nice. I need to drive it more but I am not opposed to adding a larger ram . I don't plan to mess with the hydro setup.
 
I'm very confused by the valving idea, the lines that run to the ram are both high pressure, ported off the steering box to have pressure on 1 when turning left and the other when turning right. If you ran a line straight from the pump to the ram, it would always have pressure and wouldn't be controlled by the steering.
 
I'm very confused by the valving idea, the lines that run to the ram are both high pressure, ported off the steering box to have pressure on 1 when turning left and the other when turning right. If you ran a line straight from the pump to the ram, it would always have pressure and wouldn't be controlled by the steering.

I dont have a full understanding of that ether, trying to read up on that fact right now. Maybe its magic ;)

Edit: It looks like when you tap your steering box for hydro, both the holes are high and low pressure. So my first drawing will not work. Second (more complex) will. All my bad for not thinking the hydro through all the way and treating it like a power steering box :banghead:

about a third of the way down there are some good pictures: http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/PR-Hydro_Steering/index2.html
 
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one of the biggest side effects/benefits of hydro assist is no more DW. I wouldnt want to lose it on the highway. It drives pretty good. I guess I was hoping it would drive a little better but I am happy going 55mph if thats it.

I still need to add a sway bar up front and the deavers out back. it has a lot of body roll which could be the last piece of the puzzle.

I could double check the toe in and caster.
 
I used to drive 75-80 with assist on 37's in Big Bird all the time. Drove strait and true.

One of the keys is don't go too big with the ram, it starts taking too much fluid to move it and steering gets sluggish, then you'll get to a point where if you just let off the gas and RPM's are diving, you don't have enough fluid to turn the wheel and it starts fighting you.
 
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