pro comps 40s I have are 100 pounds each, goodyear MTRs are 76 pounds in the 37/17/17 size and radial treps are 81 pounds. At least from what I can find online.
I know I know but its also very hard to justify 3200$ in tires in 12 months. (1600$ on pro comp 40s and 1640$ on 37" MTRs) I might be stuck waiting for a deal on used 37s and probably just find a used 40" tire for now...
yeah the rig is crazy tall and they were not gripping so good even at 10 psi. Icould just get beadlocks and find another tire i guess but that would cost alot more than buying new tires and selling mine .
I am going to lower the front a little and take out some bumpstop since i basically have like 1" of down travel up front and its very sketchy on off camber stuff.
If thats true dood your driving around at full droop all the time. Any rig would feel sketchy in that mode. You need to cycle the front end with the tires off. Full bump and full droop. Shoot for a ride height in the middle then get the tires on and hard bump accordingly.
Well its like its at clise to full bump all the time .
Still too tall though. Smaller tires would allow for lower lift by 2-3" and could go back to normal bump stopping
Having rode in your rig. Tires are too stiff even at 10psi.
Swapping down to 37s would better. But don't get another "bro" type tire
MTR's......? But also check what load range your getting. Super heavy = super stiff
Bump stops are also way off. Riding on bump stops all the time.
Having rode in your rig. Tires are too stiff even at 10psi.
Swapping down to 37s would better. But don't get another "bro" type tire
MTR's......? But also check what load range your getting. Super heavy = super stiff
Bump stops are also way off. Riding on bump stops all the time.
Yeah exactly what I was thinking. The one thing is my pro comps are load range C and the 37" mtrs are load range D. 37" radial treps are load range D also. So technically im running a softer rate tire than the mtr kevlars .
I am tempted to try these pro comps at like 3-5psi .
Jon, my MTRs are a metric 35 and load range D. I air down to around 8 psi and the sidewalls flex nicely. Since you drive your rig to the trail I'd go with the 37" MTRs and not look back.
Jon, my MTRs are a metric 35 and load range D. I air down to around 8 psi and the sidewalls flex nicely. Since you drive your rig to the trail I'd go with the 37" MTRs and not look back.
I hear ya. I have been taking Dave at Daves offroad , he has guys who swear up and down that the Radial Treps are better than the MTR-k. He said he has guys running them in Ultra 4 in classes where you cant run stickies and they love them...
I am also realizing there really is not a budget for new tires and Beadlocks right now, any extra cash has to go into the motor swap. I think I might just find a new spare tire and work on airing these ones down to 7psi just to get me through the season...
I will probably remove leaves from the rear and swap in new mains again, and weld on new spring perches, straighten out the rear axle the best I can. for the front I will probably just cut down the PAC coils about 2" since thats free and then remove about 5-7" of bump stop so I actually have travel up front again and relocate the axle side shock mounts.
ill remove bump stop in the rear as well and relocate shock mounts to run these shocks.
I might have a line on a old school 40" MTR for around 250$, and RS perches were only 35$, so this could be a cheap temporary fix until I justify buying brand new rear leaves, removing the drop boxes, 37s and Beadlocks, and I am also looking at those sticky compound Bias Trepadors.
If I did not just pay for all of this stroker 37s on Beadlocks would probably be feasible.
So I am just going to order a new 40/13.15/17 for 400$ for now and just replace the rear leaves and get through the season... and figure out a way to drop the front down 1-2" and relocate the shock mounts and cut down my crazy tall bump stops.
So I am just going to order a new 40/13.15/17 for 400$ for now and just replace the rear leaves and get through the season... and figure out a way to drop the front down 1-2" and relocate the shock mounts and cut down my crazy tall bump stops.
I had those cheap oriellys spring clamps holding my packs together after reno. facing down. one must have smashed into a rock and bent outward, towards the tire, and almost instantly punctured the tire. not the Tires fault. Dave at Daves offroad said its his first known failure on one of these. Im learning that for a lot of my failures on my jeep I am the first he has ever heard of for shit like that and he sells to tons of buggies Ultra 4, etc and hasn't seen some of the weird stuff. I am just unlucky...
ruining two more MJ mains did kind of suck through.
I will probably remove leaves from the rear and swap in new mains again, and weld on new spring perches, straighten out the rear axle the best I can. for the front I will probably just cut down the PAC coils about 2" since thats free and then remove about 5-7" of bump stop so I actually have travel up front again and relocate the axle side shock mounts.
ill remove bump stop in the rear as well and relocate shock mounts to run these shocks.
Who cares about the rest of the wheeling season. You did some great trips and the most important ones (Reno, Sierra Fest). If you still want to go wheeling this year, run what you got, knowing your limitations. Otherwise, start rebuilding it the right way and you'll only have to do it once. Aim for next season, not next weekend. Plan to run 37's as discussed. I would say the MTR's are good but you could go with the Treps if you want also. Take whatever suspension parts (coils, leafs?) you don't plan on using off and sell them. Get the right coils and leafs you need for the right height and rate you are planning for. Get the right length shocks. For the type of rig you are building, you don't really need bypass shocks or anything too fancy. A good monotube shock is fine. Most importantly get the right length. Set it up so that the ride height is in the middle of shock travel (as Gordo suggested), cycle the suspension and adjust from there. Riding on bumpstops just to be able to run tires that are way too big is just stupid. Suspension travel is where its at.
Oh and while setting up the new suspension in the front, make sure you correct the track bar length.... as you know yours is wacked.
