Why not run a simple plate gusset between the two sides of your mount on the opposite side from your reservoir hose, and bend a bar to go across the engine with plate attaching to your through-bolt? Simple, not much more fab and should be more than strong enough.
Weld the gussets to your tabs and the plate and it will substantially increase resistance to tear out... The bar will also help by limiting torsional stress.
Weld the gussets to your tabs and the plate and it will substantially increase resistance to tear out... The bar will also help by limiting torsional stress.
Kinda hard to tell in those pics, but if its not already I would double shear that lower shock mount, that bolt probably won't last very long in single shear.
Kinda hard to tell in those pics, but if its not already I would double shear that lower shock mount, that bolt probably won't last very long in single shear.
Beakie if you have a better idea I would love to hear it. I like having more input so that I don't need to it a second time. Where do you see it failing? It is plated all the way to the spring mounts. The whole area would have to fail cause those aren't comming loose from the plating.
Beakie if you have a better idea I would love to hear it. I like having more input so that I don't need to it a second time. Where do you see it failing? It is plated all the way to the spring mounts. The whole area would have to fail cause those aren't comming loose from the plating.
I think Beakie is saying that you have been given the ideas and you are dismissing them. What I suggested is a couple hours with a bender, chop saw and welder and drill. It would nearly double your strength by increasing weld along the base to your good and necessary plating. The torsional support will eliminate body twisting stress... All IMHO.
Beakie if you have a better idea I would love to hear it. I like having more input so that I don't need to it a second time. Where do you see it failing? It is plated all the way to the spring mounts. The whole area would have to fail cause those aren't comming loose from the plating.
I think Beakie is saying that you have been given the ideas and you are dismissing them. What I suggested is a couple hours with a bender, chop saw and welder and drill. It would nearly double your strength by increasing weld along the base to your good and necessary plating. The torsional support will eliminate body twisting stress... All IMHO.
The additions he mentioned would really help.
The shock is going to see more then simple up/down forces.
Simple additions like;
triangle gussets off your mounts to the area you've plated would be easy enough
the cross brace Rev talked about
adding pieces to the backs of the mounts tieing them together, and then down to the plating you've done
everything seems to be perimeter welded (plating), or butt welded (shock mounts), I'd want to tie the 2 together with gussets, and spreading these loads out as much as possible.
Well I got to drive it even on the freeway. Drives great at 75 mph. Only thing I see is that the camber is crap! The top tilted out enough that part of the tread is not in contact with the road. Once I find my digital level I'll find out how far. So the question do I have to cut the welds and hope it can move enough or heat and shrink the tubes?
Ok this part is not hard core but it is a great upgrade! I replaced my sealed beam headlights with Truck Light replaceable beam ones and it was better. Then I made a new harness and WOW! It was cheap and made a word of differance at night.
That's going to be my next project I do believe. I bumper very similar to yours. Did you cut that part out to add the d-ring mounts? Could you have just bored the hole in the existing bumper bracket and put a matching piece of 1/4 on with side? It's be be 3 pieces of 1/4 stacked and welded with a hole all the way thru the center... Make sense?
