XJ Weak Points and How to Best Fix Them Long Term

[Goose_XJ88]

This post is My opinion and isn't necessarily 100% needed for everyone. My suggestions are geared towards hard use in the rocks and making the unibody last long term.


This post technically has more of a modified air about it but all of these mods could be done to a stock height rig and not hinder the drive-ability.


So because I am bored and am kind of doing these modifications on my new build anyways, here is a list of items that I feel Jeep cheaped out on and need to be upgraded on any rig if you want it to last while wheeling. Just like anything, this is my opinion but it is a good start for anyone new to the Cherokee to think about looking at on their rig.

Now I don’t think that this is a comprehensive list but these are all things that I am upgrading on my new build before I even lift it. Please feel free to voice your opinion or add items you think I am missing.

Renix D30 Cad axle
.......FIX: Swap to non cad axle or install a single piece passenger side axle shaft

Thin Sheet metal D30 Mounting points
.......FIX: Reinforce passenger upper arm mount and add lower control arm skids

D35 Rear axle
.......FIX: Swap in a Ford 8.8 (slightly narrower and fab work required), D44, or Chrysler 8.25

Early Brake system
.......FIX: 95/96 Brake booster and master cylinder (direct replacement), WJ ZJ or 97+ Brake booster (Not sure on this as I opted for the bolt in)

Aluminum Steering box spacer (known to crack/break and bolts known to shear)
.......FIX: Aftermarket Steel spacer with Grade 8 Bolts

Stamped Control arms
.......FIX: Aftermarket tubular control arms or WJ upper and lower control arms

Unibody
.......FIX: Frame stiffeners front to back

Motor and trans Mounts (engine plate is 3 bolts per side and known to shear in block)
.......FIX: Aftermarket motor mounts and engine plates like Brown dog, StinkyFab, or Mean Lemons (these aftermarket pieces can use 7 bolts per side into the block therefore dispersing the load more)

Electrical wiring/grounds
.......FIX: Cruser54 Tips http://cruiser54.com/ and upgraded power harness like Jeep Cables or others that do larger cable upgrades

Skid plates: Gas tank and transfer case mainly (Some came with them factory, others did not)
.......FIX: Find stock skids in the junkyard or buy aftermarket

Pre 97 Electric fan (5 or 7 blade I believe)
.......FIX: Install a junkyard 97+ fan or get a brand new one for $60 on amazon (10 blade fan)

Bar pins (Annoying to deal with)
.......FIX: Bar pin eliminators (make sure the rear upper doesn’t rotate the orientation of the shock mount or you will probably break the shock or have it binding terribly at the least)

Steering (tierod is thin walled hollow tube that bends fairly easily)
.......FIX: V8 ZJ tierod or Stinkyfab aluminum tierod (Benefit of SFR is tierod ends both sides that are replaceable)

Steering box Bracing (Lots of movement can have the “frame” crack when pushing larger tires)
.......FIX: Boostwerks or others Steering box Brace

Transfer Case Linkage
.......FIX: Boostwerks upgraded linkage to simplify the factory mess

Thin Sheet metal rockers
.......FIX: Sliders or for stock or better ground clearance 2x6 rocker replacement (Follow EricsXJ's How-to)

Door Hinges
.......FIX: Clean and lubricate the hinges. If they are already damaged and sagging, there are a few plates you can buy. Or there are other fixes for the hinge I have seen.



Few other items that i think are worth the upgrade

LED interior lights from Onewaylight.com
97+ Side mirrors so you can actually see whats behind you.

 

[Green XJ Jeep]

If its a renix I highly recommend
http://cruiser54.com/

 

[fetishfrog]

My entire approach is very much what you've described. I don't want to lift (I'll be replacing the springs with UpCountry, but that's it) but want to fix the defects as it were.

So far I've done the following

1. Front and Rear tow hitch, for recovery and frame stiffening. Huge difference in the frame. All the little rattles just disappeared.
2. MORE steering box brace and JKS steering box spacer.
3. Detour USA Tailbone tire carrier. It's awful nice having the tire out of my storage space, and the extra weight in the back helps with traction a bit.
4. LED headlights, taillights, etc. Reduce the load on the electrical system.
5. Headlight relay harness. No need to send several amps through that switch.

Additional work to be done would be

1. Heavy duty tie rod, probably SFR.
2. UpCountry springs and equivalent shocks
3. Maybe upgrade control arms
4. Rock sliders and gas tank skid
5. Powertrax no slip in the rear
6. Maybe stainless steel brake lines.
7. Upgrade parts as they begin to wear out.

Should make for a very driveable XJ that will get me anywhere I could ever want to go.

 

[RCP Phx]

The "list" of things that are subject to problems is good. But the fixes are "highly subjective" to one man's opinion!

 

[Goose_XJ88]

The "list" of things that are subject to problems is good. But the fixes are "highly subjective" to one man's opinion!

I agree that My "fixes" are geared more towards hardcore wheeling with the idea behind spending lots of coin up front is that you never need to replace that part ever again.

 

[Brent T]

I agree that My "fixes" are geared more towards hardcore wheeling with the idea behind spending lots of coin up front is that you never need to replace that part ever again.

This was my basic approach when I first bought my XJ 7 years ago. I had rock sliders, frame stiffeners and a cage before anything else. Lots of strange looks and some rude comments at times, but I was being proactive since I intended to have this rig a long time. Now it's lifted, locked, geared, etc., and been wheeled pretty hard over the years. It's still very solid, no squeaks, rattles and the doors still open and closed even when it's bound up on two wheels. I'd been through the uni-body nightmare before with a couple of drag cars back in the day. It's the same concept. Fix it before it falls apart rather than try to patch it back together after you tear it up.

 

[Goose_XJ88]

This was my basic approach when I first bought my XJ 7 years ago. I had rock sliders, frame stiffeners and a cage before anything else. Lots of strange looks and some rude comments at times, but I was being proactive since I intended to have this rig a long time. Now it's lifted, locked, geared, etc., and been wheeled pretty hard over the years. It's still very solid, no squeaks, rattles and the doors still open and closed even when it's bound up on two wheels. I'd been through the uni-body nightmare before with a couple of drag cars back in the day. It's the same concept. Fix it before it falls apart rather than try to patch it back together after you tear it up.

Haha exactly what I am thinking. Fix it before it falls apart and you have to patch crappy situations and fatigued metal.

I'm planning to have my rig fully armored and caged before it gets a lift. I agree that its going to be pretty funny seeing my stock height jeep rolling around with a steel bumper up front, Tube tire carrier out back, JCR corner guards with the rub rail and LED boxes, tank and belly skids, 2x6 rocker replacement, and Rubicon express upper and lower control arms but I wont be worried about anything.

I think it will be fun to wheel a stock rig for once and really be able to show off what a stock jeep can accomplish and that a lift and big tires aren't necessary if you are a good driver.

 

[Goose_XJ88]

Just a little bump for an older thread of mine.

I think the info is still really relevant for people that want to wheel hard in the rocks and want a rig to last long term.

 

[Evan03]

I read the entire thread.
My jeep is 89 I ribbed the brake booster of my parts jeep. Dont remember the year but it sure wasnt bolt on.

I think sheard motor mount bolts on block are from severely warn motor mounts hammering the motor under tourge

 

[75SV1]

I agree that My "fixes" are geared more towards hardcore wheeling with the idea behind spending lots of coin up front is that you never need to replace that part ever again.

I don't wheel. Mine are on road, and possible trail runner. At 32" 4.5 lift. My opinion is these upgrades are needed, then too. I've dealt with DW. Not fun.

Add track bar upgrade. WJ Big brakes. Possible 1-ton steering, cross over steering.

Add Ironman 4X4 to the motor mounts and steering brace. Kevin's Offroad for a steering brace.
Track Bar brace : Ironman 4X4 and Rubicon Express.
Upgrade headlights.
Control Arms: Core, JKS, others I don't have : Metal Cloak, Iron Rock, Ironman 4X4.

 

[devildog0]

My entire approach is very much what you've described. I don't want to lift (I'll be replacing the springs with UpCountry, but that's it) but want to fix the defects as it were.

So far I've done the following

1. Front and Rear tow hitch, for recovery and frame stiffening. Huge difference in the frame. All the little rattles just disappeared.
2. MORE steering box brace and JKS steering box spacer.
3. Detour USA Tailbone tire carrier. It's awful nice having the tire out of my storage space, and the extra weight in the back helps with traction a bit.
4. LED headlights, taillights, etc. Reduce the load on the electrical system.
5. Headlight relay harness. No need to send several amps through that switch.

Additional work to be done would be

1. Heavy duty tie rod, probably SFR.
2. UpCountry springs and equivalent shocks
3. Maybe upgrade control arms
4. Rock sliders and gas tank skid
5. Powertrax no slip in the rear
6. Maybe stainless steel brake lines.
7. Upgrade parts as they begin to wear out.

Should make for a very driveable XJ that will get me anywhere I could ever want to go.

Pretty much how my 95 XJ is setup. Upcountry clone suspension, receiver hitches front and rear, sliders, skids. I put my No Slip in the front and left the rear open.

 

[ShoeterMcgav]

I’d add to the initial list, instead of lca skids- replace the thin garbage axle mounts altogether.

Having one rip off makes for an anything but fun ride home. Ask me how I know!

 

[RCP Phx]

I’d add to the initial list, instead of lca skids- replace the thin garbage axle mounts altogether.

Having one rip off makes for an anything but fun ride home. Ask me how I know!

It's to bad you've already fixed yours, I've got a extra set of slightly raised chromoly mounts I made.

 

[TRCM]

The WJ upper arms you mention are not a good idea if you have a high pinion diff....they contact the driver side diff.....

I went back to stock XJ uppers, and the problems went away

XJ uppers are straight...WJ uppers curve down towards the pumpkin