XJ/MJ weights and dieting

My rig was 4714 with my cage partially completed, 1/2 tank gas and just the front seats. No spares, no tools, no nothing else. This was tallied with 4 digital weight scales that racers use.

I don't give a rats a$$ about weight. I built my rig (60, 9"/14B, atlas, hummer beadlocks, 38 sxs, cage) to be stout and not to break on the trail and be safe for the family. My junk doesn't get denied on too many lines either.

SeanP
 
SeanP said:
My rig was 4714 with my cage partially completed, 1/2 tank gas and just the front seats. No spares, no tools, no nothing else. This was tallied with 4 digital weight scales that racers use.

I don't give a rats a$$ about weight. I built my rig (60, 9"/14B, atlas, hummer beadlocks, 38 sxs, cage) to be stout and not to break on the trail and be safe for the family. My junk doesn't get denied on too many lines either.

SeanP
Thats what I am talking about!!!
 
Rear glass on a MJ is about 15 lbs. XJ would be about 20. I would tube the back half of your rig. The stock psuedo frame may be thin, but there is a lot of area as compared to a tube bed.
 
Get rid of the subs, amps, and 100 or so CD's in the glovebox, and you'll save at least 75# :laugh3: (j/k)

Seriously, get rid of the drum brakes in the rear. I'm amazed at how much those things weigh.

-How about an aftermarket, 50 states legal header? Those cast iron ones weigh alot and end up cracking anyway.
-If you aren't using the AC, the AC radiator (condenser?) in the front is dead weight along with the AC compressor itself.
-How about going to all electric fans and ditching the stock mechanical one. Aftermarket ones are plastic, and have to weigh less than the stock metal one.
-No sway bars, right. Those weigh a few pounds.
-Shorter exhaust system? Maybe save a couple of pounds.

I've also read of guys using special plastics as skids. The plastics industry is coming up with some pretty cool stuff that's really light and as strong as steel. I think I remeber reading it over on the PBB. The weight savings might not justify the cost, however.
 
Capt. Nemo said:
Get rid of the subs, amps, and 100 or so CD's in the glovebox, and you'll save at least 75# :laugh3: (j/k)

Seriously, get rid of the drum brakes in the rear. I'm amazed at how much those things weigh.

-How about an aftermarket, 50 states legal header? Those cast iron ones weigh alot and end up cracking anyway.
-If you aren't using the AC, the AC radiator (condenser?) in the front is dead weight along with the AC compressor itself.
-How about going to all electric fans and ditching the stock mechanical one. Aftermarket ones are plastic, and have to weigh less than the stock metal one.
-No sway bars, right. Those weigh a few pounds.
-Shorter exhaust system? Maybe save a couple of pounds.

I've also read of guys using special plastics as skids. The plastics industry is coming up with some pretty cool stuff that's really light and as strong as steel. I think I remeber reading it over on the PBB. The weight savings might not justify the cost, however.
no subs or CDs, just two 6 1/2s and my MP3 player :laugh3:

discs may come, but the Toy axle is so light already I'd rather focus elsewhere first.
header, that's a good idea, I'll probably do that along with an engine rebuild this fall/winter
no AC condenser
already using 2 electrics, no mechanical
no swaybars
exhaust is pretty short, ending only a few feet behind the cab
 
just weighed an xj rear window @ ~12 pounds. rear quarter glass is ~6.5 each.

take out as much plastic trim as you can. also the lower part of the dash weighs a bit, with it's metal "backbone"
 
I don't know if the composite leaves would be good for this application. But Archer Brothers use to use them in their MJ's that they raced on the SCCA cicuit. I miss watching them beat up on all the 3.0 v6 imports with IFS using their 2.5 solid axle frt. end. I think they ended up quiting the class because they kept getting penalized in various ways to level the playing field for everyone else.
 
Other than an aluminum radiator and fiberglass or carbon fiber hood and fenders, I'm out of ideas.

I'm sure Jesse James could help ya out :explosion
 
Well you could take a hole saw and start drilling holes in things. Swiss cheese some of the internal cab brackets, skids plates, gun drilled axles. Take a grinder and remove any extra steel thats not critical. You could run the upper leaves composite and then run the lower one steel so it would take most of the impacts.
 
Brett,
Rear XJ Lexan or Petg hatch window will weigh about 6 lbs. I believe the glass was 12 or so lbs.
MJ rear window is smaller than the XJ rear window so I'm sure there is a few lbs diffrence.. If your interested in Lexan or Petg windows shoot me an email offlist and we can work something out..

[email protected]

As for shedding weight, I have been toying with the idea of building a vacume mold of my front end (has been dove tailed by 20 inches) out of plastic.
I removed about 80 lbs of weight by removing the inner fender wells and part of the front cross member. But I am using 1/4 inch 4x4 angle to plate the frame below the cab and using 2x2 and 2x5 for my sliders. Then will be adding an Exo and front hoops for support of the radiator and the shock mounts.
can't decide if I'm going to run leafs or build a long arm 3 link. Technically I could run a triangulated 4 link up front due to only having a 4cylinder there is so much more room up front. + the front axle will be moved forward a few inches as well.. shooting for 80+ approach angle. I also removed the bed and will be gutting the bed section, sectioning the bed sides and attaching them to tube. Bob and Dove tail of the bed are in the works..



BrettM said:
yeah, the interior flooring is gone, replaced with bedliner.

I forgot to mention glass, since I'm primarily interested in it's summer weight (doors off) the door glass doesn't matter. I need to keep the windsheild because this sees a lot of street time as well. I did think about replacing the rear window with Lexan, does anybody have a good guess as to what a rear window (XJ or MJ) weighs?

Tools-
If I had a tow rig I'm sure I would leave most of my tools in it, but I don't have that choice. I know what you guys mean as far as the tools being dependent on the trail and the distance from home. Do I bring just every wrench I could possibly need on my vehicle, or do I bring all the other stuff in case someone else needs it? that type of thing.
 
Last edited:
AZXJ, what leafs are you going to be running up front? I am going with toyota rears, the pin on them is offset a bunch so should bump the axle forward 3-4"
AZXJ said:
Brett,
Rear XJ Lexan or Petg hatch window will weigh about 6 lbs. I believe the glass was 12 or so lbs.
MJ rear window is smaller than the XJ rear window so I'm sure there is a few lbs diffrence.. If your interested in Lexan or Petg windows shoot me an email offlist and we can work something out..

[email protected]

As for shedding weight, I have been toying with the idea of building a vacume mold of my front end (has been dove tailed by 20 inches) out of plastic.
I removed about 80 lbs of weight by removing the inner fender wells and part of the front cross member. But I am using 1/4 inch 4x4 angle to plate the frame below the cab and using 2x2 and 2x5 for my sliders. Then will be adding an Exo and front hoops for support of the radiator and the shock mounts.
can't decide if I'm going to run leafs or build a long arm 3 link. Technically I could run a triangulated 4 link up front due to only having a 4cylinder there is so much more room up front. + the front axle will be moved forward a few inches as well.. shooting for 80+ approach angle. I also removed the bed and will be gutting the bed section, sectioning the bed sides and attaching them to tube. Bob and Dove tail of the bed are in the works..
 
My 87 MJ bone stock auto 4x4 long bed weighed 3320#. The only weight savings action I'm sure I'll take is to shorten the bed and frame behind the rear shackles. I dont think that'll come close to offsetting the 35's, armor, bumpers and winch, Oh well.
 
I'm actually going to be running XJ leafs up front on a modifyed HPD30 we are in the near future switching to a long arm and Bighorn air shocks. this setup is just temp so I can make the ArizonaXJ's 5th anniversary run onm Payette Draw.. The leafs were flipped around so the centering pin will be closer to the firewall and the axle will be pushed forward about 4 inches.. The perch will be much bigger than normal and wil retain the leafs in three spots.

I'll post a picture when it's done..

Later
DaveO
 
Weasel said:
Well you could take a hole saw and start drilling holes in things. Swiss cheese some of the internal cab brackets, skids plates, gun drilled axles. Take a grinder and remove any extra steel thats not critical. You could run the upper leaves composite and then run the lower one steel so it would take most of the impacts.


this was going to be my idea.. i saw them do it on a DIY channel ricer show.. they were drilling out sections of the under hood support... i figured I could shave something...
not sure if you mentioned this, but what about those fiberglass racing seats w/ padded cover? might save something...
 
Ludakris said:
this was going to be my idea.. i saw them do it on a DIY channel ricer show.. they were drilling out sections of the under hood support... i figured I could shave something...
not sure if you mentioned this, but what about those fiberglass racing seats w/ padded cover? might save something...
I'm definitely going to cut out a lot of hood structure if I don't make a lexan one. On the topic of seats, does anyone have weights of XJ seats?
 
Back
Top