XJ d44 suggestions?

[blistovmhz]

98xj, 5.3/4l65e, built d30 (blah blah blah), pretty near stock d44 (lunchbox, kj disc conversion - retained e-brake), 4.56 gears.

The 44 has always leaked on me from both axle seals since before the kj disc swap. Finally got around to actually inspecting the seals and mating surface, and sure enough, the shaft is grooved.
I wouldn't normally post about this as there are several obvious options.

1. Speedi-sleeve it. Seems like a lot of work to save a small amount of money when I could instead:
2. New chromoly shafts.

I post though, because it may just be time to look at another axle all together. The 5.3 is making a tonne more power than the 4.0L ever did. While I don't feel it's enough power yet to grenade the 44 shafts, it may be enough to chew up the R&P.
I was going to just say screw it and go to some tonnes, but after working on a few sets over the past year or so, they seem to introduce a few new and exciting problems of their own (ie: pumpkin clearance (still sucks even after a shave), more seal issues and at least 3x more places for stuff to leak from, having to do a tonne of work to get them to fit under the Jeep). Really, at the end of the day, I'm trying to solve a seal issue and a POSSIBLE strength issue that may never actually be an issue, with a 1 tonne axle that is 3x more likely to leak .

Suggestions?

 

[cal]

I wouldnt worry about that R&P. We raced a couple of King of the Hammers on an XJ44 with 35's and a LOT of power (more than that 5.3 out..). We did once break a 35 spline shaft, but never had a ring and pinion problem.

If I were you, I'd throw a full case locker and 33 spline shafts in there and never worry about it again.

 

[Jbh97009]

I agree completely. A 5.3, though a nice v8 is only marginally more powerful than the 4.0
Rebuild the 44 with good gears, full case locker and 33 spline shafts like cal said.
Exactly what I'm gonna be doing soon with an xj44 I recently picked up

Lol I'd be way more worried about that Dana 30!!!

 

[Starboard M]

If I were you, I'd throw a full case locker and 33 spline shafts in there and never worry about it again.

Why the recommendation for the 33 spline vs 35? If I recall correctly most full case lockers have 27, 33 and 35 offerings.

I cant imagine the shaft selection would change either.

 

[cal]

The only 35 spline option is ARB. 33 spline offers detroit and ox as well.

Either works fine, neither would break.

 

[XJ_ranger]

speedy sleeves are like $12.

Seems like you could put them in with new seals, for a total of like $50, and go wheeling until you have actual problems.

I'm all for bigger axles, and I hate maintenance, but going that way gets you back out and doesn't cost you hardly anything.

 

[civic50]

if you can find a shop to press the old bearings off and back on again with the speedy sleeves for cheap then go that route. If you're looking at getting new bearings, seals, bearing retainers and then having a shop press it all on you would probably be looking at only the cost of new shafts and not having the old bearings removed being the difference. I guess it depends on what your budget is in the end.

 

[blistovmhz]

Ordered a set of new shafts. As I already have a 30spl locker, not upgrading today. I figure I'd much rather break a shaft than an R&P or locker. If I find that I'm blowing up shafts on a regular basis (they have good warranty), I'll just warranty them, throw the new ones back in the axle and sell it to someone smaller than my Jeep.

I would've gone the speedi-sleeve route except that at the end of the day, I needed new bearings anyway, which means new bearings, retainers, seals, then I have to cut the old ones off the shafts which is a bit of work, then find a way to fill in the groove before installing the speedi-sleeves, then reassemble the whole thing, and at the end of the day I haven't upgraded anything.

This way I'm at least upgrading to the chromoly shafts and getting new studs out of the deal, with about 2 hours less work involved, as well as getting 2year warranty on the shafts themselves. I wheel pretty hard for my build, so the warranty is definitely worth it.
Ultimately, the shafts with bearings/etc are only about $150 more than just bearings/etc (I'm in Canada, the land of the absurdly expensive).

Plus I'd really hate to throw another set of brand new pads, shoes, and rotors in, and have it leak and ruin a THIRD set .

Thanks for the input guys.

 

[blistovmhz]

I agree completely. A 5.3, though a nice v8 is only marginally more powerful than the 4.0
Rebuild the 44 with good gears, full case locker and 33 spline shafts like cal said.
Exactly what I'm gonna be doing soon with an xj44 I recently picked up

Lol I'd be way more worried about that Dana 30!!!

Marginally? I've owned, built, and wheeled a lot of 4.0L's and I've never come across one (aside from perhaps a well built stroker) that came anywhere NEAR a stock 5.3L. My 5.3 is still bone stock. I'm running the factory tune and didn't even install new plugs. Just grabbed the motor out of the rain where it's probably sat for at least a year, dropped it in, and the power upgrade is ridiculous. My roomie's OTHER car is a built 92 Mustang Cobra making around 300whp. He's made fun of Jeep power for as long as I've known him.
His Mustang and Pickup both broke so he's been driving my Jeep to work. Says "I approve". High praise from him.

Realistically, I've never seen a 4.0L move a built Jeep 0-60 in less than 9 seconds, and that's with 31" shoes. Mine is doing 0-60 in 6.2 seconds, on 35's, with about an extra 1000lbs worth of bumpers/racks/plating/gear. I'm not sure "marginal" is the most accurate word to use here.

Mustang roomie is worried I may beat him off the line at this point (I've got the traction advantage).

Agreed on the D30. I still haven't managed to break one, and mine is pretty well built at this point. I've been waiting for it to explode before upgrading to something a bit bigger.

 

[cal]

215 hp for the jeep to 295 in the 5.3 is more than marginal yes, but you get more seat of the pants feel from the cam profile than the actual on paper peak horsepower.

Around here is a small issue to swap in a stroker and HUGE work to legally get a 5.3 installed, so its a far less viable option.