Axel rebuild, need an reasonable cost shop recommended

[Badlogin]

I need to have my Dana 44 re bearinged. I can't believe the cost. I was quoted $1200 just to replace the carrier bearings and pinion bearing. That's no axle seals or axle bearings. I need to find a more reasonable shop. Looking for recommendations in the north San Diego county area please.

 

[Anak]

I had "Pro Gear" on Ronson Rd (off Convoy) do a similar job on a Chrysler 8.25 in 2016 and it cost $860 then. Given what the value of the dollar has done since then $1,200 does not seem to be much out of line with that price.

 

[JonnyCat63]

I've had Pro Gear and San Diego Gear and Axle work on various axles over the years. Yeah, given inflation and what I paid 4 years ago the last time, $1200.00 might not be so far off, unfortunately.

I've heard decent things about "The Differential and Axle Shop" in Escondido, or "Oceanside Driveline" in Oceanside.

 

[RCP Phx]

If your not changing gears than it's a straight forward DIY project!

 

[Badlogin]

If your not changing gears than it's a straight forward DIY project!

No I have 4.88 gears in it and believe they're fine. I'm getting a gear howl. When I let off it goes away. So I want to address the problem before it hurts the gears.

 

[RCP Phx]

Have you checked your current set-up numbers? How long ago were the gears installed?

 

[Badlogin]

Have you checked your current set-up numbers? How long ago were the gears installed?

No I have no idea how long ago these gears were installed. I bought it used. I know lash in excessive. It has Detroit lockers front and rear. And with the amount of lash it has in the rear, if you get out of the throttle and back in agian at highway speed it lunks. I pulled the diff cover and the oil is spotless. If I run my finger along the bottom of the housing I can get a couple sparkles. But not much. I looked at the gears and they don't appear to have bad wear. There's no leaking around the pinion or axle seal either.

 

[Anak]

I would go into it assuming you are going to have to do a complete new setup.

Odds are it is in the condition it is because it was not set up properly the first time.

 

[Badlogin]

Well if I don't see any odd wear on the ring and pinion or cracks. That sounds like throwing money out the window by replacing them just because. I guess if I could find someone more reasonable on the price I would be more willing to do everything. I was considering getting an ARB and getting rid of the Detroit locker for street and snow driveability. But with the cost just to do 4 bearings that blows that idea. Lol

 

[Anak]

I am not saying you need new gears, just that poor setup may have led to the situation you now have.

The D30 I am running was purchased because it has 4.10s and an ARB. Before I even ran it, just in servicing it, I noticed there were problems. Short story: Whoever set it up tried to re-use the oil slinger, but the punch used to remove the oil slinger had distorted it, and that distortion became part of the setup measurement. Which was fine until the axle saw drive force and the drive force proceeded to remove some of the distortion and introduce play in the setup. I had to completely re-do that setup, and with no baseline from which to start. I did not replace the gears. I now have something on the order of 50K miles on that setup and no issues. But I did have to take the time to go through a lot of iterations of shims. The time was substantial, and I am sure an experienced tech could have done it more quickly. Of course that is what you pay for.

 

[RCP Phx]

I would definitely pull a pattern and check the backlash before doing anything!

 

[Badlogin]

I am not saying you need new gears, just that poor setup may have led to the situation you now have.

The D30 I am running was purchased because it has 4.10s and an ARB. Before I even ran it, just in servicing it, I noticed there were problems. Short story: Whoever set it up tried to re-use the oil slinger, but the punch used to remove the oil slinger had distorted it, and that distortion became part of the setup measurement. Which was fine until the axle saw drive force and the drive force proceeded to remove some of the distortion and introduce play in the setup. I had to completely re-do that setup, and with no baseline from which to start. I did not replace the gears. I now have something on the order of 50K miles on that setup and no issues. But I did have to take the time to go through a lot of iterations of shims. The time was substantial, and I am sure an experienced tech could have done it more quickly. Of course that is what you pay for.

I agree. I wish I wasn't intimidated, I'd do it my self. But I don't have a couple of the tools needed as well.

 

[XJ_ranger]

I'd also check the rear driveshaft u joints. E-brake or tire chock on,engine off, in neutral, see if there is any play anywhere.

I found that when I first had a rear axle with a u-bolt yoke vice a strap and bolt style yoke, I was over tightening the u-bolts and quickly wearing the pinion u-joint. The symptoms sounded a lot like you're describing- growl on load, silent when coasting.

Free to check.

 

[XJ_ranger]

Also, have you driven any other vehicles with auto-lockers (lunchbox,detroit, grizzley, etc)? There is a lot of play as the carrier has to rotate the cross pin to load the cams to engage the side gears. This is significant more free play than the spider gears in an open differential or an ARB or other selectable. This is way more noticeable in vehicles with manual transmissions, where the clutch disc springs also have some play and the entire drive train lash is more noted vice the automatic where the torque converter is keeping everything loaded all the time.

Comparing my former '92 with an AX-15 and a lunchbox rear to my current 97 with an AW4 and a lunchbox rear locker - the auto locker acted a lot like more you're describing with the AX-15.

Though the "growl" shouldn't be present in any case.

Edited to add: the pinion to ring gear backlash should be the same, but the "how far does the pinion have to rotate before an axle shaft starts turning" is like an order of magnitude more with an auto locker over an open diff.

 

[Badlogin]

I've had Pro Gear and San Diego Gear and Axle work on various axles over the years. Yeah, given inflation and what I paid 4 years ago the last time, $1200.00 might not be so far off, unfortunately.

I've heard decent things about "The Differential and Axle Shop" in Escondido, or "Oceanside Driveline" in Oceanside.

I've heard good things about both Oceanside Drivline and Pro Gear. But I've never heard of the one in Esco. I'll give them a call. They're a bit closer than the other two. Thanks for the suggestion.

 

[Badlogin]

I've had Pro Gear and San Diego Gear and Axle work on various axles over the years. Yeah, given inflation and what I paid 4 years ago the last time, $1200.00 might not be so far off, unfortunately.

I've heard decent things about "The Differential and Axle Shop" in Escondido, or "Oceanside Driveline" in Oceanside.

I have it at the Escondido Differential shop.

 

[JonnyCat63]

I have it at the Escondido Differential shop.

Right on. Let us know how it goes.

 

[Badlogin]

Well I got the Jeep back from Escondido Differential this afternoon. They did a nice job setting up the gear pattern and installing the new pinion & carrier bearings as well as the new ARB. I'd feel good about recommending them to anyone in the area thats looking for a local shop. I told them I wouldn't state howmuch they charged me because there's so many variables. But I'll come back in the future and update if there's been any issues. Thanks again Jonnycat63 for the recommendation.