- Location
- Colorado
Never say never! 
-
Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.
XJ Buildup III
- Thread starter XJEEPER
- Start date
- Location
- Wasatch Range
This is my 3rd XJ since 1996 and I've had this one since 2007. If I was going to run 35's, it would have happened already.Never say never!
- Location
- Colorado
Cool beans... After I ripped the gear box off (like completely off the unibody, ratchet straps and tow to get home with barely any turning) on my ZJ, I went with a wagoneer 4 bolt and a steering brace... cracked the unibody in a FEW places so added assist to alleviate the stress on the unibody when turning... did all the carnage with 33s.. added the assist, but went to 35s shortly there after.
I think a ram does more to distribute the the load and take stress off other parts and places of the Jeep as well as assist in turning of course. Could be dead wrong but that was my experience and why I pulled the trigger on my last rig... it turned pretty ok locked on 33s before it though too. Was sticky to be sure, but good nuff. The stress cracks is what led me to the assist... and well ya it helped turn the 33s (only for a month) and the 35s with ease
I think a ram does more to distribute the the load and take stress off other parts and places of the Jeep as well as assist in turning of course. Could be dead wrong but that was my experience and why I pulled the trigger on my last rig... it turned pretty ok locked on 33s before it though too. Was sticky to be sure, but good nuff. The stress cracks is what led me to the assist... and well ya it helped turn the 33s (only for a month) and the 35s with ease
Last edited:
- Location
- Wasatch Range
View of my rig's current look, prior to rear bumper completion and pending roof rack install......more on this to come.
- Location
- Wasatch Range
Yes Tom. Stroll back to Page 18 to see my quarter armor install.:thumbup:
Thanks. I missed a number of updates, so it was nice to catch up on your mods. Very impressive!
- Location
- Colorado
I’m ready for more of that JCR goodness!
- Location
- Wasatch Range
Suppose that I should care about a photo hosting option so that I can share some build updates……
- Location
- Colorado
Digging the quality parts you use... that roof rack is by far my favorite! Sleek, well engineered, and a great overall design.
You get er mounted yet?
You get er mounted yet?
Last edited:
- Location
- Wasatch Range
The JCR aluminum rack has been installed and has performed well for over a year. It works perfect for hauling both my kayaks and I've even over-loaded it this summer with 350lbs of steel pipe for a fencing project on our ranch.
Last edited:
- Location
- Wasatch Range
I suppose a wrap-up of my JCR rear bumper is in order, which included some custom bits to integrate it into the receiver hitch framework.
Wanting to improve my departure angle by removing the bolt on receiver hitch that I frequently drag on slickrock ledges, but not wanting to give up the strength of this receiver, I decided to modify it so that it could be hidden behind my bumper and be integrated to still carry the the load when towing.
I chopped the receiver cross tube out and welded in a section of 2" x .25 wall tubing about 4" up on the side brackets, adding a plate and safety chain loops. Then I trimmed down the side brackets of the receiver for a cleaner look.
This allows the receiver framework to bolt to both the unirails and tie in to the 2" receiver tube in the bumper.
Primed, finished and ready for install
I then coated the bumper with several coats of metal etching primer, followed up with sanding and then multiple rattle can coats of Rustoleum Professional Gloss Black.
I also wanted to eliminate the need to carry trailer pigtail adapters, so I added a dual plug mount which includes the popular 4 pin and 7 pin female plugs. I modified the mounting bracket so that this plug assembly hides behind the bumper to protect it from trail damage. :thumbup:
Wanting to improve my departure angle by removing the bolt on receiver hitch that I frequently drag on slickrock ledges, but not wanting to give up the strength of this receiver, I decided to modify it so that it could be hidden behind my bumper and be integrated to still carry the the load when towing.
I chopped the receiver cross tube out and welded in a section of 2" x .25 wall tubing about 4" up on the side brackets, adding a plate and safety chain loops. Then I trimmed down the side brackets of the receiver for a cleaner look.
This allows the receiver framework to bolt to both the unirails and tie in to the 2" receiver tube in the bumper.
Primed, finished and ready for install
I then coated the bumper with several coats of metal etching primer, followed up with sanding and then multiple rattle can coats of Rustoleum Professional Gloss Black.
I also wanted to eliminate the need to carry trailer pigtail adapters, so I added a dual plug mount which includes the popular 4 pin and 7 pin female plugs. I modified the mounting bracket so that this plug assembly hides behind the bumper to protect it from trail damage. :thumbup:
Last edited:
RCP Phx
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Phoenix,Az
RCP Phx
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Phoenix,Az
That's nice looking it makes me want to build a aluminum one using that extruded material!
- Location
- In a strange land
One word of caution regarding extruded aluminum: You may get wind noise.
Consider your personal threshold for that sort of thing before you get too deep into it. If you are happy to just crank up the radio another notch, then no problem. I am at the other end of that spectrum and could not tolerate it.
Consider your personal threshold for that sort of thing before you get too deep into it. If you are happy to just crank up the radio another notch, then no problem. I am at the other end of that spectrum and could not tolerate it.
RCP Phx
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Phoenix,Az
I can't believe all the accessory options there are for that stuff!
Anak, they even offer "leading edge" material!
https://www.alufabinc.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/05/Master-Catalog-Web-compressed.pdf
Anak, they even offer "leading edge" material!
https://www.alufabinc.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/05/Master-Catalog-Web-compressed.pdf
- Location
- In a strange land
Take time to run the math on weight too. It adds up fast. I have a box of 80/20 pieces and it is painfully heavy.
- Location
- Wasatch Range
Same here, and I'm pleasantly surprised by the lack of wind noise with the addition of the JCR rack. I've toyed with building my own for years.....but when the JCR unit came out, it checked all the boxes and although a bit spendy, I decided to "buy once, cry once"
- Location
- Wasatch Range
ZJ Fuel Tank Swap
Prior to running the Rubicon Trail in Aug 2020, I decided that mitigating the risk of a 220k mile fuel pump failure while on this trip was in order. I'd also longed for more range with my XJ and knowing that a ZJ tank swap would net me at least 5 more gallons, I decided to swap out the stock XJ tank during the fuel pump replacement process.
Dropping the tank, it appears that I brought home a bit of the San Rafael Swell from the rainy 2018 Loose Screws Tour. One of the many reasons why I'm no fan of mud.
While the tank was out, I scrubbed the floor pan and laid down a coat of Rustoleum Black.
I sourced a donor fuel tank from a 1995 ZJ
I soaked the tank interior with hot water and Dawn soap, then scrubbed it to remove any residue. Rinsed out with clean water and placed in the sun to dry.
The 1/2” copper components that I sourced from Home Depot to extend the filler vent to increase fill capacity. As the tank tapers at the corners, I extended the 1/2” tubing so that the vent tube would be positioned behind the sending unit, at the highest point in the tank, to gain the most capacity.
Inside tank view of the fuel filler (L) and vent tube (R)
I determined that a 5/8” drill bit would remove enough material from the tank vent nipple to allow the 1/2” copper extension to fit snuggly inside.
After drilling the vent nipple out to 5/8”, I tapered the inner lip of the nipple to allow the copper tube to slip in more easily.
This shows the position of the 1/2”copper vent extension tube when it is installed, only the tube will be rotated so that the bend points towards the top of the tank, leaving a 3/8” air gap for fuel expansion when full.
I warmed the plastic tank nipple with a heat gun to make it more flexible and to aid insertion of the copper tube from inside the tank. Ended up encouraging the copper tube with a dead blow hammer to get it all the way into the plastic vent nipple, which was a very snug fit. Once the tube was installed, I rotated the copper elbow to an upright position from inside the tank.
With a 4.6L stroker build in the works, I sourced a high performance AEM fuel pump, which is a direct fit into the 2000 XJ sending unit and provides a flow rate that will keep the stroker happy.
Top to bottom:
Fuel pump filter which fits inside the sending unit
Outer fuel filter
Fuel pressure regulator
220k mile, 20yr old fuel filter
Diaphragm assembly that sits below the fuel pump filter inside the sending unit
Diaphragm assembly all cleaned up and in position, ready for new fuel pump and inner filter install.
Inner fuel filter fitted to the AEM fuel pump
Fuel pump and inner filter installed inside sending unit. The filter snaps into place on top of the diaphragm washer and you need to press around the sides of the filter to ensure a flush fit. Then slide the spacer over the fuel pump body to keep it centered in the sending unit housing.
Top-New outer fuel filter
Bottom-Old outer filter
With the fuel pump, inner filter and regulator installed, I powered up the sending unit to verify pump cycling and gauge accuracy before installing it into the ZJ tank.
Continued.......
Prior to running the Rubicon Trail in Aug 2020, I decided that mitigating the risk of a 220k mile fuel pump failure while on this trip was in order. I'd also longed for more range with my XJ and knowing that a ZJ tank swap would net me at least 5 more gallons, I decided to swap out the stock XJ tank during the fuel pump replacement process.
Dropping the tank, it appears that I brought home a bit of the San Rafael Swell from the rainy 2018 Loose Screws Tour. One of the many reasons why I'm no fan of mud.
While the tank was out, I scrubbed the floor pan and laid down a coat of Rustoleum Black.
I sourced a donor fuel tank from a 1995 ZJ
I soaked the tank interior with hot water and Dawn soap, then scrubbed it to remove any residue. Rinsed out with clean water and placed in the sun to dry.
The 1/2” copper components that I sourced from Home Depot to extend the filler vent to increase fill capacity. As the tank tapers at the corners, I extended the 1/2” tubing so that the vent tube would be positioned behind the sending unit, at the highest point in the tank, to gain the most capacity.
Inside tank view of the fuel filler (L) and vent tube (R)
I determined that a 5/8” drill bit would remove enough material from the tank vent nipple to allow the 1/2” copper extension to fit snuggly inside.
After drilling the vent nipple out to 5/8”, I tapered the inner lip of the nipple to allow the copper tube to slip in more easily.
This shows the position of the 1/2”copper vent extension tube when it is installed, only the tube will be rotated so that the bend points towards the top of the tank, leaving a 3/8” air gap for fuel expansion when full.
I warmed the plastic tank nipple with a heat gun to make it more flexible and to aid insertion of the copper tube from inside the tank. Ended up encouraging the copper tube with a dead blow hammer to get it all the way into the plastic vent nipple, which was a very snug fit. Once the tube was installed, I rotated the copper elbow to an upright position from inside the tank.
With a 4.6L stroker build in the works, I sourced a high performance AEM fuel pump, which is a direct fit into the 2000 XJ sending unit and provides a flow rate that will keep the stroker happy.
Top to bottom:
Fuel pump filter which fits inside the sending unit
Outer fuel filter
Fuel pressure regulator
220k mile, 20yr old fuel filter
Diaphragm assembly that sits below the fuel pump filter inside the sending unit
Diaphragm assembly all cleaned up and in position, ready for new fuel pump and inner filter install.
Inner fuel filter fitted to the AEM fuel pump
Fuel pump and inner filter installed inside sending unit. The filter snaps into place on top of the diaphragm washer and you need to press around the sides of the filter to ensure a flush fit. Then slide the spacer over the fuel pump body to keep it centered in the sending unit housing.
Top-New outer fuel filter
Bottom-Old outer filter
With the fuel pump, inner filter and regulator installed, I powered up the sending unit to verify pump cycling and gauge accuracy before installing it into the ZJ tank.
Continued.......
Last edited:
Similar threads
