XJ Buildup III

Do yourself a favor and stud the rockers!
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I also recommend the Boostworks Titanium exh/int bolt set.
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I just realized that this tech landed on another thread and not on my build thread. I performed this mod back in 2010 and it's still getting the job done.

XJEEPER said:
Here's what I did on my 2000:

Unlike the early XJ models, the factory bumpstop cup is welded on instead of screwed on so using my sawzall I cut right above the weld. This left me with 5" of bumpstop tower, which is hollow.

I grabbed 2- 3/4" bolts-2" long and 4 nuts from HD.

Cut out two 2.75" diameter circles from some scrap 1/4" plate. This is slightly larger than the flat on the end of the Prothane bumps.

I welded the 3/4" bolt head to the center of each 2.75" plate.
IMG_5187.jpg



The inside of the stock bump tower is approx 1.75" ID and I had some tube scraps laying around that had a 1.5" OD and the 3/4" nut would slip inside with a little grinding of the ears.

I cut 2-2" lengths of tube which I used with the 3/4" nut to create a threaded sleeve to insert into the bump tower.

Leaving the nut protruding about .25" from this sleeve, I welded it to the 1.5" OD tube. I then ran a bead around the circumference of the sleeve on each end to tighten up the gap between the OD of the sleeve and the ID of the tower. Some minor grinding resulted in a snug, centered fit.

IMG_5167.jpg


I then welded the sleeve into the stock bump tower, with the sleeve about 1/4" out of the tower, then buffed it clean and painted it along with the 3" bump plate.



IMG_5175.jpg

I threaded the 2nd nut onto the bolt on the bump plate and dropped it inside the Prothane bump, shoved the bump inside the coil spring and installed the spring.

I then reached inside the coil, grabbing my fabbed bump plate and flipped it over so the bolt was pointing up and then threaded it into the bump tower. This needs to be done with coil uncompressed.

Once threaded in completely, I snugged the nut with a wrench, then seated the coil and lowered the weight of the Jeep onto the coil.


The 2.75" plates contact the top of the Prothanes upon compression and don't hang up on the coils while flexing. With a 6" lift, I ended up trimming 2 rings from the 10" Prothane bumps, which seems to work perfectly with my setup.


There is just over 1" of adjustability with my plate setup, so I can thread the plate out to reduce the airgap if needed to limit uptravel.
Click to expand...
 
Some stroker progress. Dropped the crank and bearings into the block and checked for bearing/crank journal clearance.

IMG_0684.jpeg

Bearing clearance spec is .0010 to .0025, all of mine are in the .0017-.0020 range.

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Bearing contact surfaces coated with Red Line Racing Assembly Lube before torquing to spec in 3 steps.

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Block masked and primed with 3 coats of VHT Engine Primer
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Block painted with 3 coats of black VHT High Temp Engine paint

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Stinky Fab Racing engine mounting plates will be used to contain the added torquespowers of this stroker.

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I decided to spring for the bling, Boostwerks Titanium 2.0 manifold mounting kit

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I just binged all 18 pages of this build in one sitting. I can’t believe the similarities between what you have already done and what I am building up to do to mine. I’ve got a 98 that had been my wife’s daily for the last two years that I am starting to go through. Thanks for sharing all the projects over the years. I will definitely be referring back to most of them when the time comes. Side note, I am also in Utah, about 30ish minutes from sand hollow state park.
 
Crimsonboat said:
I just binged all 18 pages of this build in one sitting. I can’t believe the similarities between what you have already done and what I am building up to do to mine. I’ve got a 98 that had been my wife’s daily for the last two years that I am starting to go through. Thanks for sharing all the projects over the years. I will definitely be referring back to most of them when the time comes. Side note, I am also in Utah, about 30ish minutes from sand hollow state park.
Click to expand...
Glad that you've found the info that I've share valuable. Sand Hollow is a fun place to play, I make it down there a few times a year.
 
I've done things.....time to plug some holes with things.

IMG_2413.jpegIMG_2415.jpeg
Custom AutoTec 4032 high silicon aluminum alloy forged pistons
Custom forged steel Scat connecting rods with upgraded 927 Chevy wrist pins
Hastings ring set
ARP rod bolts
 
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