XJ as a tow vehicle?

60/40XJ

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Ohio
I plan on purchasing a late model XJ this late summer/early fall and want some opinions on how it would perform as a tow vehicle.

I'd like to set it up with a 6.5" long arm kit and all the goodies that accompany it. New front and rear axles. Probably a transmission cooler and tow kit also if not already equipped.

My question to all those here who have a lot more knowledge about this than I is, how well would this setup tow a 2000lb boat (plus trailer weight) 3-400 miles 3-4 times a year?
Any saftey issues that I should be concerned about? Will the lift kit take the added strain of the boat without any significant steering or braking issues? Any and all advice, opinions, experiences are welcome.

Thanks for the help.
60/40
 
I plan on purchasing a late model XJ this late summer/early fall and want some opinions on how it would perform as a tow vehicle.

I'd like to set it up with a 6.5" long arm kit and all the goodies that accompany it. New front and rear axles. Probably a transmission cooler and tow kit also if not already equipped.

My question to all those here who have a lot more knowledge about this than I is, how well would this setup tow a 2000lb boat (plus trailer weight) 3-400 miles 3-4 times a year?
Any saftey issues that I should be concerned about? Will the lift kit take the added strain of the boat without any significant steering or braking issues? Any and all advice, opinions, experiences are welcome.

Thanks for the help.
60/40


sounds like you should be right around 2750# I dont see any problems! at 6.5" of lift, The only think I would consider is Currie anti-rock front and rear.. but I still wouldnt classify that as a requirement :thumbup:
 
Better brakes for starters. Depending on axles, I would go with WJ conversion. You get both, better steering and brakes.
 
Better brakes for starters. Depending on axles, I would go with WJ conversion. You get both, better steering and brakes.

Was planning for a 44 30 spline in the front and 8.8 in the rear, which should give considerable added strength and increased braking as well correct? More reading done last night as well. I think I'm going to stick with the 33s.
 
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You will need to upgrade your brake master cylinder. When I was running dual piston front calipers on a 44 and the 8.8 rear my master cylinder didn't push enough fluid to make the rear useful....or maybe some restricters to make the rear get more fluid. I don't know enough about brake systems to give any useful advice, I am just telling you what I experienced with a stock master cylinder and upgraded axles.
 
You will need to upgrade your brake master cylinder. When I was running dual piston front calipers on a 44 and the 8.8 rear my master cylinder didn't push enough fluid to make the rear useful....or maybe some restricters to make the rear get more fluid. I don't know enough about brake systems to give any useful advice, I am just telling you what I experienced with a stock master cylinder and upgraded axles.

See THAT'S exactly why I come here... I hadn't even thought of that. Add it to the list.
More reading to do. And thanks POSJ for the heads up.
 
You will need to upgrade your brake master cylinder. When I was running dual piston front calipers on a 44 and the 8.8 rear my master cylinder didn't push enough fluid to make the rear useful

Did you leave the stock proportioning valve intact? If you did, converting to disks won't gain much. Once you pull the o-ring from the valve, you'll see the difference. I wouldn't recommend leaving it that way - it's too easy to lock the rear brakes. Either install the prop valve guts from a rear disk equipped ZJ or an adjustable prop valve to the back and dial it in as necessary.
 
Did you leave the stock proportioning valve intact? If you did, converting to disks won't gain much. Once you pull the o-ring from the valve, you'll see the difference. I wouldn't recommend leaving it that way - it's too easy to lock the rear brakes. Either install the prop valve guts from a rear disk equipped ZJ or an adjustable prop valve to the back and dial it in as necessary.



http://www.classicperform.com/How/How-Master-Cyl-Prop-Work.htm

I'm completely unfamiliar with this bit of tech so I looked up a bare bones article for anyone else in the same boat as I.
Best I can figure it is that the new valve would allow adjustment so that the new rear discs and the current front discs engage at the same time, instead of having the rears near locked just as the fronts engage.
Am I close Ronbo?
 
Personally I think it would also be a case of the tail wagging the dog. Sure you have the power to probably tow 2750 lbs. but with gear and passengers than.... fix breaks and have trailer brakes still may not stop as planned.

If all goes well and no mountains you will be Ok but the first time there's a quick response issue because of some idiot or road hazzzard... I bet you will wish you had a heavier tow vehicle when you stop weaving. my .02
 
Personally I think it would also be a case of the tail wagging the dog. Sure you have the power to probably tow 2750 lbs. but with gear and passengers than.... fix breaks and have trailer brakes still may not stop as planned.

If all goes well and no mountains you will be Ok but the first time there's a quick response issue because of some idiot or road hazzzard... I bet you will wish you had a heavier tow vehicle when you stop weaving. my .02


Currently tow it with my 07 liberty. Theres no doubt that when I've borrowed my dads suburban its like the boat isn't even back there. Just tryin to figure out if I can have my cake ane eat it too... two birds with one stone kinda thing. New toy that will do well off road and can tow the jet too. Plus I've got an image in my mind of this all white lifted xj sittin tall pullin my purple and white jet boat, and it looks good in my mind so I've gotta try and make it happen.
 
Am I close Ronbo?

http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Suspension_Steering_Axles_and_Brakes/Proportioning_Valve_Mod.htm

This article covers the tech aspect and a little of the thinking behind the mod.

In my case, swapping to disks didn't yield an increase in stopping ability until I could adjust the pressure to the disks - the factory prop valve was set up for the original drums. Once I removed the o-ring, too much pressure would cause the rear brakes to lock prematurely if I hammered them. I used the prop valve parts from the ZJ that my rear brakes were sourced from to provide the proper bias. It works well.
 
Spend the extra for a weight distributing hitch. With 6.5 inches of lift, plus larger tires. You will probably be using a draw bar with an 8 to 10 inch drop. That will put extra leverage on the unibody. I also like having the extra framing to protect the fuel tank.
 
I used to tow with my XJ, they tow great till the day something goes wrong.

2011-06-27075503.jpg

The wife was towing a small sports car on a dolly when this happened. The dolly started wagging and the XJ wasn't big enough to keep it under control.

I replaced the XJ with a 3/4ton truck to do all my towing.
 
I used to tow with my XJ, they tow great till the day something goes wrong.

2011-06-27075503.jpg

The wife was towing a small sports car on a dolly when this happened. The dolly started wagging and the XJ wasn't big enough to keep it under control.

I replaced the XJ with a 3/4ton truck to do all my towing.

Man that's horrible. Hope everyone was ok.
 
I've towed a vehicle with an XJ, both stock and lifted.

The 1st time I was towing a Tracker on a Tow Dolly. XJ was stock. No issues, but I was mindful that I was towing something.

The second time I was flat towing a lifted YJ (4") with a lifted XJ (4").
The drive down a steep canyon road on a early October morning road caught my attention right away. Once I was on I76 it wasn't too bad, but an emergency stop was strictly out of the question. It got the job done.

That said, they do just fine lifted with a Pop-up camper as long as it's reasonably light (#1,600).
 
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