- Location
- Oceanside, CA
Thats why we all made it over it so easy. Dan shaved a foot off the top for us. 

nope. just a grease fitting and some paintso nothing broke when you rode the rear drive shaft?
nope. just a grease fitting and some paint
I never get to come play when you're having all the fun!so i ran into an isssue.... the ford inner c's had a bigger id than the housing. i should have cut the c's off first and checked, i just assumed they'd be the same. it was like .005" or so bigger, so the c's fit on the tubes a little loose. i didnt like that, so i cut the c's off a chevy lp d44 i had kicking around. the tubes on the chevy are almost 1/4" smaller, so i had to bore those out. to do that, i left a little bit of the tube sticking out of the c's so i had something to hold onto in the lathe. then i carefullly measured how deep i could bore it before it broke through the weld. i didn't want to go that far because i needed the c to stay attached to the tube until i was done boring it out. this worked pretty good, and when i was done boring it, i just cut the little bit of weld that was still holding it to the tube and kissed it on the belt sander.
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i believe so.Are you going to have to use spacers for the unit bearings? like with the WJ swap on the stock D30?
Going to make some, or just purchase from jks?i believe so.
I didnt know you had all this tooling hidden at your house.
we'll see. i may just buy them.... sometimes it isnt worth reinventing the wheel for $40Yeah JKS has the 3/8 or 1/4" (i forget which it is) for between the knuckle and late model unit bearings. There like $40 bucks though.. I could use a set if you plan to make some. Shoot me a text or PM maybe we can work something out?
Holy crap Dan. I never opened this tread before. Good work man. I didnt know you had all this tooling hidden at your house. Now I know why you have cameras haha. Now I got to find time to read this from the beginning.