I did the RMS recently on my '98 and here's what I came across...
I used RTV, but on the engine block instead; because I felt it worked better than using the zip ties, strings, or rubber band trick to hold the gasket to the pan. I did try the zip tie trick, and had nothing but problems lining up the pan/gasket/block. What worried me about gasket to the oil pan aspect, is that if the gasket at the rear of the pan dip is not perfectly in place to meet the groove in the rear bearing cap, you're going to wind up with a bigger leak. At least by RTV'ing the gasket to the block, you know the gasket is where it is suppose to end up on the block, and the pan will seat itself the rest of the way.
Just apply a thin stip of RTV round the bottom of the block. You don't need ungodly amounts of RTV. Just enough for the gasket to stick to the block. Start from the back around the dip and begin pressing the gasket to the bottom of the engine block. As you do this, use some of the pan bolts to hold the gasket in place as you work your way towards the front of the engine. Go back and press the gasket in place really well and let it sit for a bit. Once the RTV has had a chance to set, you can remove the pan bolts holding the gasket in place, then proceed to install the pan. The gasket is not going to move...
Personally, I rather face the future event of having to scrape off a little RTV of the engine block for the next RMS change out, than keeping my fingers crossed and hoping my newly installed pan gasket doesn't leak at the rear bearing cap juncture....