Will this D44HP work?

[smokeyyank]

So this weekend I picked up new axles. Currently have a D30hp and 8.8, but will be upgrading to 35's and wanted to get some new axles. Did some researching and decided that a HPD44 and ford 9 will be perfect for my application. Found a killer deal on CL that a guy was selling and went and swooped them up. Rear is full width 9 with 3.50 gears and 31 spline shafts.

The front though has me puzzled a little. In my researching I knew I was looking for a 70's ford without cast mounts. Guy said they are from a 78 BUT it was leaf sprung. The guy was going to put them under his XJ but sold it. He didn't know a lot about the axles as his buddy was helping him with the build. My understanding is from 77-79 ford had the f150 supercab and these are good candidates for the swap. It does have flat top knuckles, thicker tubes and is 5 x 5.5. Looked on here for some info but can't really get a solid answer.
http://77cj.littlekeylime.com/Dana44_2.htm

BOM is 610040-3 and is listed as a 78 F250.

Basically, will these work? I believe yes, but the leaf springs are throwing me off.

Cheers!

 

[Jeepguy91]

Look on this web page. Its where i got a lot of my info from when i was doing my dana 44/9" swap.
http://77cj.littlekeylime.com/Dana44_2.htm

 

[smokeyyank]

Already checked it out. According to Mr N's this axle is the best for the swap, just wanting some additional opinions on it.

 

[Jeepguy91]

You should be able to get a truss and coil and control arm brackets and weld them on pretty easily to that axle. Im running the factory ford radius arms on mine as that is what it was set up for when i got the axles. There are quite a few companies out there making bracket kits that should work out well for the axles you got.

Did you get the knuckles and shafts for the front axle as well or is it just the housing? From reading around on Mr N's site it may be hard to find factory axle shafts which means you might end up having to order new ones for it.

 

[Kittrell]

That axle is choice. The F250 D44 is an HD housing with 3" DIA 1/2" tubes. You can also cut away a portion of that cast perch without sacrificing strength.

http://d44tech.com/HP_Jeep_TJ.html

 

[old_man]

You should have shown up when we did the axle builds the last two months. You could have done some of your work and have a ton of immoral support.

 

[smokeyyank]

Perfect! Good to know. I did get both flat top knuckles with outer stub shafts and brand new brake calipers, rotors and pads. Also got a rockcrusher diff cover with 5.5 RE springs (which I won't need so those will be for sale soon) plus some other stuff all for $300.

Would have loved to old man but a few weeks ago I was actually considering parting out my rig. Few things changed and when I saw these the other day jumped on em.

Now will just be the process of piecing them together. Thinking of 4.88's, LSD and high steer

 

[old_man]

Personally I would go full locker and wait for the high steer.

 

[smokeyyank]

Personally I would go full locker and wait for the high steer.

I've been trying to think what would be the best option. I do love ARB's and have very strongly consider going with them. Since it was sort of an impulse buy I'm having to go back and do the research for what I need and how exactly I want to build it. I know I have to get hubs and some axle shafts. trying to think of what else.

 

[old_man]

Since you will have lockouts like me, I went with a cheap Ausie type locker. I have close to 15 years on mine. I've never had a situation where it didn't work just fine for me.

I went cheap. I run mine full width and modified stock Ford radius arms with spherical joints and wristed the passenger side. I've got no complaints. I built the whole front end, including brakes, hubs, gears, locker, track bar, tie rod, springs, spherical joints, c-bushings, and hydro assist for $1200.

 

[Frank Z]

I ran Eaton ELockers in both front and rear D44's.
100% open when not engaged, 100% locked when engaged.

http://www.seriousoffroadproducts.c...N/Dana-44-30-Spline-3.92-Up-4-Pinion-E-Locker

 

[smokeyyank]

Ideally, I want to run arbs, but the cost is the initial hold up, but these arent going in anytime soon. Old man what did you use for your hyrdo set up? Is there a good reference guide for what is all needed for the swap? Just want to start gathering parts.

 

[old_man]

I used to rebuild and port steering boxes. I've done over a hundred. I used a Surplus City ram. I had the hoses made in Loveland at Tubes-n-Hoses.

 

[trippled]

Glad to see you kept the Jeep.
Here's what I had planned if I ever slap my tons in
http://www.surpluscenter.com/Hydrau...-Cylinders/1-5X8X-75-DA-HYD-CYL-9-4410-08.axd

 

[smokeyyank]

Glad to see you kept the Jeep.
Here's what I had planned if I ever slap my tons in
http://www.surpluscenter.com/Hydrau...-Cylinders/1-5X8X-75-DA-HYD-CYL-9-4410-08.axd

After some debating just decided it would be better to keep and build over the next year or so. I've had an idea of what I've wanted to do with it for over a year, just haven't wanted to take the plunge.

Cool, thanks for the info. Other than tapping the box and getting the ram, I will just need to fab the mounts for the ram correct?

 

[smokeyyank]

For the hubs am I able to use the Warn ones like this

https://www.gowarn.com/prodDetail.aspx?partNo=WAR20990

or do I need something like this?

http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com...9mHCRjSTs3PPw2QKUsEoeAYwz3AIkWbToMaAh0I8P8HAQ

 

[Hypoid]

That axle is choice. The F250 D44 is an HD housing with 3" DIA 1/2" tubes. You can also cut away a portion of that cast perch without sacrificing strength.

http://d44tech.com/HP_Jeep_TJ.html

I don't know who else makes a truss kit for these: https://www.tntcustoms.com/jeep_par...eaf_sprung_style_jeep_xj_tj_zj_mj_tnt_customs

I don't know what discounts TnT gives to members, but they are a sponsor here...

 

[Hypoid]

For the hubs am I able to use the Warn ones like this

https://www.gowarn.com/prodDetail.aspx?partNo=WAR20990

or do I need something like this?

http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com...9mHCRjSTs3PPw2QKUsEoeAYwz3AIkWbToMaAh0I8P8HAQ

You want the first one. The second link is for converting a Unit Bearing axle.

 

[trippled]

After some debating just decided it would be better to keep and build over the next year or so. I've had an idea of what I've wanted to do with it for over a year, just haven't wanted to take the plunge.

Cool, thanks for the info. Other than tapping the box and getting the ram, I will just need to fab the mounts for the ram correct?

Yes. A lot of people that used this ram cut the mount off the ram housing and rotated it 90 to get the lines in a more optimal location. Pretty easy to do. Big thing is making sure it's parallel to the tie rod it's pushing on. Other option is a PSC ram with swivel ends but cost about $200.

 

[RWKHausSupply]

For the hubs am I able to use the Warn ones like this

https://www.gowarn.com/prodDetail.aspx?partNo=WAR20990

or do I need something like this?

http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com...9mHCRjSTs3PPw2QKUsEoeAYwz3AIkWbToMaAh0I8P8HAQ

Much much better hub kit, one that doesnt have a "fuse" that fails when pushed. Not to mention no plastic parts and sticks out about 1/2" or more, less that then old outdated warn counterpart.

http://rwkhaussupply.com/drivetrain...or-dana-44-gm-ford-1-2-3-4-ton-19-spline.html

And those can be had for $275 plus shipping.