blondejoncherokee
NAXJA Member
- Location
- sacramento
so after reading that thread on pirate im even more confused . which shaft is the best out of the under 600$ range? i see evidence for all of them.
Whats the deal with Dana 30 Yukon shafts?
- Thread starter the_weirdo
- Start date
blondejoncherokee
NAXJA Member
- Location
- sacramento
i was surprised to see so much talk on there about making the pinion the weak point when upgading everything else on an axle. it also gets to the point : its still a d30. for all the money we throw into our 30s we could start building 60s...
SeansXJ
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Antelope, Ca or on the Rubicon
yes fullwidth once its not my DD lol
- Location
- West Sacramento, CA
If it starts bouncing, ease off the gas. :idea:
- Location
- Dublin California
Nothing wrong with a full width daily driver. Mine is, and I love it, drives great down the freeway and handles better than stock. Build it right and your good to go.
eace:
XJensen
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Sacramento
yossarian19
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Grass Valley, CA
from my web wheeling experience it seems that by the time you have upgraded a 30 (truss, shafts, gussets, cover, full case locker, etc) you are coming in with:
Less weight than a comparably strong 44
Much less weight than a 60
More clearance than either
Stock width & parts for backup
Less money & down time
For clearance reasons it seems like most folks at 35" or under would do well with a dressed up 30, the go fast crowd seems to use them just fine.
If you were going to run 37s, had plenty of budget and two stock housings in front of you, 30 and 44, well, 44 is the way to go. I think most people would be fine polishing a 30 and enjoying the decreased weight and increased clearance.
SeansXJ
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Antelope, Ca or on the Rubicon
Nothing wrong with a full width daily driver. Mine is, and I love it, drives great down the freeway and handles better than stock. Build it right and your good to go.
oh im not sayin there not streetable...not at all!...my Bronco is linked F/R and i DD that thing for 2 years. my xj was gonna stay the DD mild wheeler, yeah that did'nt happen.
when i go FW im gonna run 38s or bigger, sure i could make that thing ride like a caddy i know that. i just don't wanna deal with cops out here, my buddy in his yota on FW axles on 38s is always gettin the red/blue lights behind him. they pull him over, run codes and all the BS stuff. he is all legal but who wants to get pulled over weekly?
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No, my rear is 35 spline, my front is only 30 spline with 27 spline warn outers.
- Location
- Rainy side of Washington
If you're gonna put deep gears and big tires on a 30, you should think about a full case locker (or even better for longevity, a full case open carrier... if such a thing even exists for the 30.)
Housing flex or carrier flex will effectively give you a really lousy gear setup under load, which results in chewed up teeth.
Housing flex or carrier flex will effectively give you a really lousy gear setup under load, which results in chewed up teeth.
blondejoncherokee
NAXJA Member
- Location
- sacramento
after reading this thread , when i finally get the cash(tax return time) ill be buying some ten factory shafts front and rear it looks like and
along with front and rear trusses from tube to tube, and tube to housing... just gotta find someone with a jig and alot of experience welding to cast
along with front and rear trusses from tube to tube, and tube to housing... just gotta find someone with a jig and alot of experience welding to cast
- Location
- Antioch, CA
REVROK
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Spring Creek, NV
Jon-
Don't need a jig... just a tape measure and most of your welding is to the non-cast tube, in fact I would bolt/weld to an aftermarket diff cover and not weld to it at all. Honestly, if you made a plan to come over (bit of a drive, I know) we could go to Alco and pickup the raw steel and make as nice or nicer truss as you can buy... easily. I would also start by reinforcing the inner c's and the tubes using a kit like Iron Rock's... better money spent (and cheaper). That and some 30 spline alloys with a full case locker should live well with a set of 35's... of course going to 30's means that you have to use aftermarket spares.
blondejoncherokee
NAXJA Member
- Location
- sacramento
revrok i might just take you up on that offer!!!!! i love the idea of bracing the inner -Cs as well. we could weld a truss to my ruffstuff d30 cover? is there a 30 spline detroit for the dana 30?
right now i have the true trac ...
right now i have the true trac ...
- Location
- West Sacramento, CA
I have a lunch box locker inside my full case open carrier.
- Location
- West Sacramento, CA
Trusses? Are you going to desert race it?
What kind of Diff cover you have?
I really think the big think fat diff covers help a lot.
- Location
- Rainy side of Washington
What is this I dont even :looney:
- Location
- Antioch, CA
So much of the information on the Dana 30 is crap. I hate to junx myself, but my front axle defies most common D30 myths. Might be how I drive, or what type of terrain I wheel in? While I agree that depending on what type of wheeling you do, any axle needs to be modified to adapt to that purpose. My point is a Dana 30 isn't worth spending this much time and effort on. Save your money, and save yourself a lot of hassles and build a 44 with proper hubs, real high steer, and a stronger ring & pinion, and a stronger housing, and better brakes....
I know money is tight, but if you really need more axle than a D30, why stick with it at all?
I know money is tight, but if you really need more axle than a D30, why stick with it at all?
- Location
- West Sacramento, CA
Thank you for your interest Dave. I have the stock D30 cover with a 3/16" guard over it that I bought for $20. I do think it was a good investment.
