What was done to YOUR rig(XJ/MJ) today MECHANICALY????

Got my d44 under the truck! 3.55s suck about as much as the 3.07s. Gotta swap the front to match next
20160410_142255_zpseau4jmkl.jpg
 
i centered the axle and put in track bar and track bar brace yesterday. still not over this cold/sinus crap i got last week so i called it a day at that point.

list is getting smaller and smaller. im medicating like crazy so hopefully ill be 100% for the weekend and can knock most of the rest of the small items out and maybe take this damn thing for a drive.
 
That stability and lack of axle wrap tho. These perches hang down way less than the factory ones. I only have 4"of lift up front, so these are staying. Haters. :D

And this is for the front, my old TnT setup
20160411_194221_zpslr5tgek8.jpg
 
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Ugh, what a shiot day, :flamemad:wasted 3 hours trying to get the steering wheel air bag off. Just four clips in blind hole.... Finally got it off and in 60 minutes replaced the multi-switch assy from the junk yard to fix the turn signals (damaged by theives that cut up the wiring trying to steal her. They did steal the brand ne laptop my son had (kids learn the hard way).

Just as we finshed that the power steering pump self destruct that I was sure was a timing belt as it was knocking just before it seized up (not on a jeep, on a 2001 saturn) but like a jeep, the power steering pump is close to the valve cover. It seized up and smoked the new serp belt ( had just replaced the belt and bad (snapped in half) belt tensioner) while I was turning the steering wheel and testing the reassembled steering wheel. I am just about to give up on this rig, already ordered ball joints and struts for $189 2 days ago, and it still needs alignment and a rim and 2 new tires.

The second AZ durajunk power steering pump in 9 months.

I had planned to try and keep this 2001 saturn for gas mileage when rates hit $10/gal someday. But at 270,000 miles it needs a head job (carbon build up in air pump ports in the head, is causing emission test failures) and I think it needs a timing chain, I think it is the OEM chain.

At Least my Wagoneer XJ-Renix has been OK this week and weekend back to DD service till I decide to tackle the mushy brake peddle one more time.

Neighbor came by today, tried to sell me the $700 Brevada 4x4. He says the engine and transmission are OK but it needs work on every thing else, LOL, like the electric windows. $700 sounds cheap for a working 4x4 antique with stickers. Most rock crawlers think windows and doors are overrated LOL.
 
DeftwillP said:
lol $10 gas......what kinda mileage does the saturn get?
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31 MPG on the Saturn when it is not parked in the driveway waiting for surgery. In all honesty we bought it for $1500 about 8 years ago and put another 100,000 miles on it before every thing started barfing at the same time. Been a great car till the last 6 months.
 
Noticed my headlights don't stay on for 30 seconds after turning the jeep off anymore. Related to my horn not working? Hmm
 
Funny you mention headlights. I pulled up to a storefront yesterday in the rain. Had headlights on. Saw in the reflection one was out. Got home easy fix... luckily must have just came loose when I moved the Radiator to replace shroud :)
 
Crusher16 said:
Noticed my headlights don't stay on for 30 seconds after turning the jeep off anymore. Related to my horn not working? Hmm
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I have had dead horns all at once, both (might have missed the fact the first one died a while back), had ground issues to the frame and had corroded contacts in the steering column and even put the curved concave contact plate in backwards on the horn switch in the column, and other mistakes....never had a bad horn fuse yet....never affected the head lights that I know of. The horns are powered on by the notorious brown wire at the ignition switch that goes bad all the time due to too many loads on the one wire. The head light switch has nothing to do with the horn, at least on the Renix era jeeps, but It does seem to get a signal of some sort or raw power through the ignition switch.

Sounds like a dead delay off timer. No idea where it is.
 
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Got the Saturn struts/springs and ball joint arm assys in today from Rock Auto, 2 days, wow!!! Still have all the ball joint rental tools from doing the 89 XJ ball joints!!!! I dread ever doing the 4x4 Wagoneer ball joints

Also about to buy a pulled, 6 month warranty OEM used power steering pump as the factory OEM spec pump with the plastic tank rebuilt is NOA.:bawl:BUT!!! They will deliver it free for $20 :laugh:

I am already learning that OEM used may be far better than Durajunk new-rebuilt these days.
 
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Noticed a slight rubbing sound, rotational timed, like brake or axle-bearing etc noise on the 87 Wagoneer at a crawl speed coasting about 5 mph, but zero noise at higher speeds under any conditions. Gave here her first 80 mile round trip drive to the plant today :-) first in ages. Drove myself and survived a half day of work at the plant :-)
 
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Ecomike said:
I have had dead horns all at once, both (might have missed the fact the first one died a while back), had ground issues to the frame and had corroded contacts in the steering column and even put the curved concave contact plate in backwards on the horn switch in the column, and other mistakes....never had a bad horn fuse yet....never affected the head lights that I know of. The horns are powered on by the notorious brown wire at the ignition switch that goes bad all the time due to too many loads on the one wire. The head light switch has nothing to do with the horn, at least on the Renix era jeeps, but It does seem to get a signal of some sort or raw power through the ignition switch.

Sounds like a dead delay off timer. No idea where it is.
Click to expand...

I just replaced both my horns. I dont even hear the relay for them click when pressing the horn button. Might need to take column apart to check for corrosion I suppose. Bleh.
 
Crusher16 said:
I just replaced both my horns. I dont even hear the relay for them click when pressing the horn button. Might need to take column apart to check for corrosion I suppose. Bleh.
Click to expand...

A volt-ohm meter helps test the wires and grounds....before you get too far along. Fuse as well?

The switch in the steering column (at least the Renix era GM column) is a 5 minute job to access and clean with nothing but a philips screw driver. Does not get any easier
 
Thought I would take a minute to introduce myself. I have been lurking the site for a while and looking for a reasonably priced xj. My wife and I actually almost bought one new in the 90's and I have wanted one ever since. Have a family of 6, 3 7yr olds and a 13 yr old. We need a hunting/fishing rig to play with and work on, the oldest is the right age to turn a wrench and start driving a little offroad.

So we ust bought my Harley Davidson edition xj last night! If there aint oil under it there aint oil in it! Can live with having to fix it considering what I paid. Realitively rust free from what can be seen, has about four dents in the passenger side and s couple on the driver side, none major. So I made my beginning to do list to get it past inspection stop the oil loss...e brake handle button fix, brakes crazy surging pedal, valve cover, oil pan, probably rear main, and oil adapter gaskets/orings. Think thats the only places oil was coming from. Longer term list includes 4.5" lift or more, tires of course, carpet , headliner, other interior parts, paint, and last will be new bumpers... ha a few weekends worth of work for sure!
 
Welcome chemsolder, where are you located? Look forward to seeing you on the trails! I am not familiar with Harley addition what year is it?

Look forward to seeing your progress.
 
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