What was done to YOUR rig(XJ/MJ) today MECHANICALY????

dantheman! said:
i wish it was just the u bolts....



its the leaf eye bolts into the uniframe.
Click to expand...


Are you sure you broke the nuts lose? When i did mine there was a lot of "popping" sound but they my never broke lose. Used a breaker bar and I just cut the rear ones out with a grinder since I was replacing shackles.
 
If the cap is good and you seal it too tight you could damage the heater core or radiator. Best to test the cap and system with a pressure tester. Gave me huge piece of mine and saved me from throwing parts at my rigs so many times I bought one for $85. Especially my 85 diesel and 87 wagoneer that every one was convinced had a head gasket leak. The tester proved it was something else. Neither was a common cause at all, almost unheard of causes...I seem to attract the rare problems that are not the usual suspects LOL.
 
My horns stopped working again. Yay.
 
First post here

Been DD'ing my Cherokee for acouple years in stock form. Finally got some love today. Had a local body guy cut and fold the rear and wheel wells and quarters and replace the rockers with box tube and paint and seal everything up acouple weeks ago.
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Today the Springs replaced with quadratic stock HD leafs with jks boomerang shackles and bilstein shocks. Rear sway was deleted. Lots of cutting, heating and drilling in the rear.

Front was replaced with hd progressive (upcountry) coils and a 3/4" spacer again with bilsteins.

Heavy duty diff covers front and rear with fresh fluid, all new rear brakes, and a set of 5 BFG A/T KO2 in 31x10.5r15

Unfortunately my jks quick disconnects have not arrived yet so my sway bar is just tied up out of the way.
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More to come. Maybe.
 
Looks like a nice rig. FYI, this is the Red River Chapter. If you are in Connecticut, you should post up in the North Atlantic Chapter.
 
Yep bending tabs on cap...very little stopped it leaking :) However, as EcoMike posted can t cause over pressure? I thought that is why it is spring loaded like a thermostat to access overflow?
 
xjintx said:
Yep bending tabs on cap...very little stopped it leaking :) However, as EcoMike posted can t cause over pressure? I thought that is why it is spring loaded like a thermostat to access overflow?
Click to expand...

Good point, the cap seals in two places!!!!! The first inner seal is spring loaded and leaks to the overflow when over pressurized.

The outer seal keeps the overflow hose sealed from the bottle to the cooling system, and is not a pressure seal but a very low pressure/vaccum overflow seal. It is there to make sure any coolant system vacuum sucks coolant back in on cool downs and not air!!!! So it is in a way a liquid coolant vacuum seal.

Long story short, no harm done from the sound of it. Good point!!!

Put if the center seal is too low a pressure it will not stop overheating or overflowing the coolant bottle on long warm trips.
 
Bstew_ said:
Are you sure you broke the nuts lose? When i did mine there was a lot of "popping" sound but they my never broke lose. Used a breaker bar and I just cut the rear ones out with a grinder since I was replacing shackles.
Click to expand...
yea they are free spinning with a wrench on them but wont come out.
 
Put a pry bar under the head of the bolt while turning.
 
tried that as well. got the lovely noise of w hat i assume is the welds on the nut scraping the frame rail but no movement out.

i already cut into the pocket of the front one from below and watched the nut spin,but the opening didnt allow me to get the wrench in there at a good angle to bite into the head of the nut. need to enlarge it just a bit and i should get some good purchase on it. i have friday off and i plan on getting those bastards removed! i already got some new bolts and some nuts (nylock and regular depending on what fits) so once i get the old shit out its just a matter of throwing all the new stuff on.

i have friday off so im hoping i can get the rear buttoned up. hopefully my neck/shoulders feel better, pulled something yesterday morning and its been hurting something awful.
 
I just posted this in the MODs forum, but someone in our chapter may have some ideas. I just confirmed today that my only problem with operating the clutch pedal on my diesel rig is the heavy duty clutch pressure plate I installed about 10+ years ago...

The SC on the transmission is a near exact match area wise to the Jeep, and the jeep MC is a near exact match for the Nissan truck the diesel came from. So the hydraulic pressure at the pressure plate is very close to OEM.

I have a custom 1985 diesel jeep (was a gas 4 banger in another life), that has a Nissan SD-22 diesel engine and 5 speed manual transmission with an MC/SC hydraulic clutch.

Over a decade ago I installed a heavy duty clutch-pressure plate system after rebuilding the transmission. Now I am partly disabled with rheumatoid arthritis and my legs and knees are no longer strong enough to push the clutch pedal more than 2-3 times...But I can operate regular brakes, and new car clutches (tested a ford fiesta last week, and it was easy to operate). I confirmed today that the problem is the HD pressure plate spring and not anything else in the system.

One obvious choice is to try an OEM pressure plate/clutch package.
The other is to make or find a custom vacuum booster operated hydraulic clutch MC assy, or anything that is available in the custom world to make the clutch pedal easy to push. Until I install a weaker factor pressure plate, I will not know if that will be enough so I am working on a custom mod idea now.

I need ideas, links folks!!!! I can not be the first person to have this issue.

I do not want to give up my 34 mpg diesel Cherokee!!! BTW it can be push started, so it is EMP proof too, LOL. Its a keeper :-)

Thanks!!!!
 
Looks like my bad turn signals is in the column, Oh joy. The Saturn and the Wagoneer. Cloned gremlins they are.

Installed the new E-fan on the 89 Cherokee today, both the 87 and 89 have brand new fans ready for the super hot summer that is on the way.

Next is new front tires for 2 rigs and alignments, and new rim and spare tire for the Saturn.
 
I don't know about that one. I replaced mine and the trick is to unbolt the fan from the clutch and slide them in together. I think those are 10mm bolts and I just used a ratcheting combination wrench to tighten the fan bolts. I did it when I replaced the water pump right before ROM last year. Took ~1.5 hours to do the whole thing.

Also, I got my thermostat drip buttoned up yesterday.
 
Depends on the year and how thick, how many rows the radiator has, as to how much room you have. I learned to either cut the guard and make room, and or pull enough mounting hardware off to allow the top of the radiator and AC condenser to lean back to the front on the top side.
 
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Finally got my d44 brackets stripped off and ready to install under the mj. Took the drums apart on the d35 and apparently they weren't working at all. Not paying to put brakes on that thing.
 
Just passed inspection...woot. I still never got the parking brake all the way tightened up.
 
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