What should I do?

[2xtreme]

Tera lo
456
And not sure



Cherokee's are for kids and women. Grown ups wheel Wranglers!

Sorry for replying to the hi jack.
So not a doubler? a 4:1 correct?
I would probably consider a larger MC.

I would probably consider a 9" if your wheel base can handle it.
8.8 with disks might be a quicker/easier cheaper solution.
D44 could handle it but might cost more with disks and bigger axles.
V6 toy axle would be an option also.
Anything larger has too big of a center section.

Back to your previously started thread eace:

Michael

 

[BoringDave]

Sorry for replying to the hi jack.
So not a doubler? a 4:1 correct?
I would probably consider a larger MC.

I would probably consider a 9" if your wheel base can handle it.
8.8 with disks might be a quicker/easier cheaper solution.
D44 could handle it but might cost more with disks and bigger axles.
V6 toy axle would be an option also.
Anything larger has too big of a center section.

Back to your previously started thread eace:

Michael

I just asked because thats what nick is running. I figured it would help him decide what to do.

Dave


Cherokee's are for kids and women. Grown ups wheel Wranglers!

 

[2xtreme]

I just asked because thats what nick is running. I figured it would help him decide what to do.

Dave


Cherokee's are for kids and women. Grown ups wheel Wranglers!

Thanks for clarifying Dave.

I should also make it clear that my information does not mean that a 8.25 either 27 or 29 spline wouldn't hold up just fine. But I do think that the "reason" for changing might be affected by the additional information.

Michael

 

[BoringDave]

I have a 27 spline 8.25 rear with 4.56s and a lunch box lockright.

I have a set of 29 spline shafts.

Should I sell me 27s with the locker and buy a full case for the 29?

Or just keep the 27s and not dump any more money in to a 8.25.

This would be the last thing I could do to my axles, other then Cromo shafts...

After everything that has been posted. I vote Detroit locker and them 29 spline shafts for now. Save up a few more pennies and get a set of 29 spline alloy shafts. Oh and grind that stupid lip off the bottom of the case.

After all the research I have done I have found the 8 1/4 29 spline to be rated for 35's in it's factory form. Not quite sure how they get this rating yet though? I would think add a locker the rating would go down a touch. Then add the alloys and back up to 35's+

Dave


Sent from my butt since that's what I talk out of most the time!

 

[RedJeep2.0]

Buy a full case locker when you convert to 29 spline. The 8.25 is a good axle. Easy to add disks too.

im adding disks to the stocker now, we will see how that will go. i need to drill out the inside. anybody got any good tools for that?

im leaning towards, full cases Detroit (600 bucks) and keeping this axle a little while longer.

i have a long term plan for axles, just stacking parts... :scottm:

thank you all for your input.

 

[2xtreme]

im adding disks to the stocker now, we will see how that will go. i need to drill out the inside. anybody got any good tools for that?

im leaning towards, full cases Detroit (600 bucks) and keeping this axle a little while longer.

i have a long term plan for axles, just stacking parts... :scottm:

thank you all for your input.

I agree with disks. With your 4:1 brakes will be as important as anything else.

IF you are planning on other axles eventually why not stick with what you have, get a spare set of 27 spline shafts, why put $600 into a locker that is only temporary? Personally I am not a huge fan of alloy shafts in most housings. stock axles are cheep and relatively easy to change. Alloys just move the most likely thing to break into the center section which you usually don't have spares for and is much more difficult to limp home from the trail or repare. Just my thoughts.

How much more is an ARB over the Detroit? Much better road maners, better in the snow, much better turning on the trail, less wear on tires, less stress on the axle. Again, just a few thoughts.

Michael

 

[Ty2003K]

I agree with 2extreme above. Keep what you have for the moment. If you have the urge to upgrade that bad I would say ARB or spool.

If you break what you have now then you have an excuse to upgrade to the 29 spline. I will bet money it won't be the Lockright that fails. Out of my experiance I have seen more Detroit failures then Lockrights.

I would also not suggest the D44, F8.8, TV6 upgrades unless you find one prebuilt for cheap. The overall strength upgrade is minimal. F9 would be the smallest upgrade I would suggest. Anything else will just be replaced again at a later date.

 

[TORX]

Quit over thinking it, and wheel the piss out of it.

I've seen the way you drive, your fine.

 

[RedJeep2.0]

Quit over thinking it, and wheel the piss out of it.

I've seen the way you drive, your fine.

i just HATE the pinon slop the lunch box makes. but 600 bucks is hard to swallow... and it would be one of the VERY FEW things on my jeep i paid retail. iratefla

 

[NW-ZJ-SCOTT]

i just HATE the pinon slop the lunch box makes. but 600 bucks is hard to swallow... and it would be one of the VERY FEW things on my jeep i paid retail. iratefla

News flash.. that slop is with all rear lockers.. :wave1:

 

[BoringDave]

i just HATE the pinon slop the lunch box makes. but 600 bucks is hard to swallow... and it would be one of the VERY FEW things on my jeep i paid retail. iratefla

Locker causes pinion slop? Someone help the dumb guy here and explain please. but mean time off to google.


Sent from my butt since that's what I talk out of most the time!

 

[NW-ZJ-SCOTT]

Locker causes pinion slop? Someone help the dumb guy here and explain please. but mean time off to google.


Sent from my butt since that's what I talk out of most the time!

From randys

Is driveline "slop" normal with a locker?
Yes. It is not uncommon to gain up to a third of a rotation of "slop" in your driveline after a locker has been installed. This is perfectly normal, and is all part of how the locker operates.

aussie, to detroit.. They all do it, A Detroit is pretty much a lunchbox in a full case.. It's not going to be any different!

 

[BoringDave]

From randys


aussie, to detroit.. They all do it, A Detroit is pretty much a lunchbox in a full case.. It's not going to be any different!

Found a video on YouTube about the lock right.

http://m.youtube.com/index?desktop_uri=/&gl=US#/watch?v=kL0hPEOStGk


Sent from my butt since that's what I talk out of most the time!

 

[BoringDave]

When he stated pinion slop I didn't understand it. First thing I thought was the back lash would have to be incorrect. Now after watching that video I see now.

Dave


Sent from my butt since that's what I talk out of most the time!

 

[BoringDave]

Hear is a computer animated video of the full case Detroit no slip.

http://m.youtube.com/index?desktop_uri=/&gl=US#/watch?v=FYBOoljH-qE


Sent from my butt since that's what I talk out of most the time!

 

[RedJeep2.0]

I think it totally depends on the size tire and the weight of your right foot (and the rig).

IF you really think the strength difference between the 27spline and 29spline is significant, then I would build a totally different axle all together.

IF you really just want to get rid of the lunch box locker and get something more reliable then I would go with the new locker and 29 at the same time.

Then again, I would take the spool over a locker even if it was a DD, so my opinion might not be worth anything


Michael

Pretty empty 2door, but I pack A LOT when I go wheeling...
I have a light foot 90% of the time, makes it easier with 4:1

I just don't want to get the the point where my lunch box fails me and I have to do something later, cuz now I have the shafts. I'm halfway there.

I know what your saying about the spool, but iv seen them KILL new tires In a short time... So I wanna stay a way from that, until I tow to and from the trail.

And yes michael your "opinion" means nothing, because you want a Toyota :roflmao:

 

[BoringDave]

Alloys just move the most likely thing to break into the center section which you usually don't have spares for and is much more difficult to limp home from the trail or repare. Just my thoughts.

Michael

Does make since. That just saved me some money on my rear axle build.

Thanks

Dave




Sent from my butt since that's what I talk out of most the time!

 

[BoringDave]

I just don't want to get the the point where my lunch box fails me

:

I was going to install Spartans in both axles. I have the one done in the front and have now decided to just buy name brand Detroit lockers instead. Torxs killed a lunch box not quite sure what brand and I think something else broke and took it out. Scott also has killed a Spartan. I think it was just because his rig has as much torque as a dump truck and full alloy axles. Another guy that bought my old 35 because he killed a Spartan in his 35c it took out the ring gear. I would have thought he would have broken an axle first. also all of them were running 35's

Food for thought.

I think the 8 1/4 is a fine axle with 29 spline shafts and is under rated by most. You have most all the parts you need. Also if I remember it is already trussed, it's in the jeep and most all the hard work is done. All that's left is slam a Detroit in there and set the lash add your disks and done!

Dave



Sent from my butt since that's what I talk out of most the time!

 

[RedJeep2.0]

But all the lunch boxes that fail are in the front...

 

[NW-ZJ-SCOTT]

But all the lunch boxes that fail are in the front...

so far.. that's been my experience..