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What did you do to your XJ today

Hmmm Now you got me thinking if maybe I need some different shocks? I was thinking it might be my control arms BUT
 
I was suprised how much too short they were,they are the long travel shocks RRO sells with their 6 inch lift but they are about 4" too short on my set up. I guess my homebrew lift has more flex then thiers.

My rears are short too but when I hang my D44 I'm gonna relocate the mounts so I will probably just need the fronts
 
battery.jpg
battery.jpg
relized the pic didnt work for my batterys oops
 
Glade to see someone could use those wheel spacers, now finish putting that think to gether so we can wheel at Noob Fest
 
Spent the weekend rotating between helping my daughter airbrush "mojo" back on the hood, dropping the belly skid to remove the driveline and figure out the god-awfull squeeking noise, and helping the "ex" car shop.

Got mojo about 50% done. Removed the belly skid, only to find that neither the driveline nor the output on the Tcase made noise when the driveline was removed. So i lubed the hell out of the Ujoints and cardan joint and re-installed everything. (so far, no noise). Oh... and talked the ex into buying an XJ. She loves it already, but I wasn't thinking long term... Rod, whats this do? Will you look at this for me? Why is this not working? :twak: :helpme:
 
Why is this not working? :twak: :helpme:
best answer for that is "its a xj thing"

figured out where the problem was on my xj. the wire that goes from the fuse link to the computer before the fuselink was broken. so when i had a start no run feature i figure the relay or something in the start system was back feeding power to the computer and when i let off on the key it lost power.:flamemad::flame: this just spurs me furthur to redo the wire harnes under the hood and convert to a ho style sealed relay and fuse box, to get read of fuseable links


on a side note i assembled my first ar 15 lower this weekend
imag0397f.jpg
 
this just spurs me furthur to redo the wire harnes under the hood and convert to a ho style sealed relay and fuse box, to get read of fuseable links

This is something I've been thinking about doing too. The HO setup makes everything so much cleaner under the hood, it's nice. I got one thing to say... DO IT!! :greensmok


on a side note i assembled my first ar 15 lower this weekend
imag0397f.jpg

Awesome man :cheers:

How is the quality on that Aero lower? I've been wanting to build an AR-15 for a while but because I'm picky as hell and cheap at the same time I can't decide which one to buy. I want to quality and finish of the big boys (spikes) but with the price tag of the lesser (del-ton)... I'm just to damn picky. I'd just pony up the money for the big names but college life doesn't leave me with a ton of spare cash.
 
I'm impressed with the fit and finish, and for 75 bucks each ya can't go wrong. Especially if its gonia be your first build.
As for the box upgrade prob going to do that when I do the engine swap. Witch prob won't happen till after nw fest at the earliest
 
Diagnosed the strange popping noise up front. Slightly loose trackbar bracket. Also lubed the Heims.
 
I was greeted by this in the morning.

IMG_0001-1.jpg


One of the plugs in my "bologna skins" had worked itself loose. Few minutes later I had the hole replugged.

My door has also been ready to fall off for the past few weeks, so today I finally got around to the "reverse anti-lambo door mod."

IMG_0007.jpg


I won't post pictures of the final product, but I definitely gave Letterman a run for his money with the weld job. :D

Then of course with the incredible power of my Hobart, I warped the hinge so the door wouldn't close. After adjusting the door with the hi-lift jack, the door now opens and closes better than ever.

Yes, my junk is junk.
 
This is something I've been thinking about doing too. The HO setup makes everything so much cleaner under the hood, it's nice. I got one thing to say... DO IT!! :greensmok




Awesome man :cheers:

How is the quality on that Aero lower? I've been wanting to build an AR-15 for a while but because I'm picky as hell and cheap at the same time I can't decide which one to buy. I want to quality and finish of the big boys (spikes) but with the price tag of the lesser (del-ton)... I'm just to damn picky. I'd just pony up the money for the big names but college life doesn't leave me with a ton of spare cash.

When you're building an AR-15, don't worry about who makes the stripped lower. It makes zero difference. In fact, don't worry about who makes the trigger assembly. I've shot so many different ARs and it makes zero difference who makes the lower. The difference is made in the construction of the upper and there are several important considerations to make.

1) Make absolute sure that it is a 5.56mm upper and not simply a .223 upper. What's the difference? Isn't the 5.56 the same exact caliber as a .223? Yes, it is. However, anything stamped 5.56 is a much hotter round than a .223 and the latter can not handle the hotter load.

2) Rifle Twist: Do you understand ballistics and know what the difference in a 55 grain round shot out of a 1 in 7 twist versus the same grain bullet shot out of a 1 in 9 twist barrel is? No? Research it and learn the difference. Know several things: do you want to shoot long range or short range? What grain bullet would you like to shoot (see previous question)? How big of a powder load? Do you want to shoot cheap and go with MilSurp ammo? Who is the manufacturer?

3) Bolt Carrier Group: Do you know the metal composition of the BCG? What holds up better against salt, or repeated quick firings? What is the difference between a full auto BCG or a non full auto BCG (contrary to popular belief, both are fully legal to own without ATF permission. The only full auto parts that you can not own without ATF permission are the trigger group parts), how much do you like to take apart tiny parts and meticulously clean them?

4) The top of your upper receiver: Flat top or A2? Want to mount your own flip up sights, or perhaps something different, like a Trijicon ACOG or perhaps night vision? Maybe you simply like iron sights and want to keep those (my favorite).

5) Accessories: The AR-15 platform is the most accessorizable firearms platform ever designed. Period. You can build a weapon that belongs in a Schwartzenegger flick or something that could belong in Steel Magnolias. Either way, they are all the same and all of them can be built on.

6) Barrel Length: Carbine length? Full Length? What would you like to do with it? Shoot deer? That's actually legal to do in some states. Shoot long range (in excess of 500 yards)? Go with a 24" barrel. Remember that accessories are different for the various barrel lengths.

The most important thing to do is to check your state's laws regarding firearms. This is the primary reason that I will never live in either California, New York, Massachusettes, or Illinois. I like gun friendly states. I do a lot of research to make sure that I will NEVER run afoul of either federal or state laws. I know them and can recite them. Know it front and backwards, even laws concerning ammunition. It is all relevant. Did you mistakenly turn your rifle into a full auto rifle because your friend had one that he did at home and you thought it was cool? Guess what? That's 10 years minimum in FEDERAL prison. I can not stress it enough. Know the firearms laws.

While I'm at it, know firearms safety first and foremost. In contrary to my previous statement, THAT is the most important thing to do.

Sorry for the rather long discourse.
 
You read that thread on the door fix of Lettermans also. So next time I see your Jeep I will have a look at that hinge to compare.






I was greeted by this in the morning.

IMG_0001-1.jpg


One of the plugs in my "bologna skins" had worked itself loose. Few minutes later I had the hole replugged.

My door has also been ready to fall off for the past few weeks, so today I finally got around to the "reverse anti-lambo door mod."

IMG_0007.jpg


I won't post pictures of the final product, but I definitely gave Letterman a run for his money with the weld job. :D

Then of course with the incredible power of my Hobart, I warped the hinge so the door wouldn't close. After adjusting the door with the hi-lift jack, the door now opens and closes better than ever.

Yes, my junk is junk.
 
Drove it today after finishing the install of the control arm lowering brackets ,[just in time the upper control arm bracket fell off the frame ] ,new bearing assemblies , starter and a trac-bar heim joint and bracket I created.. No shakes drove good up to 70 mph :woohoo: All good till something else breaks.
 
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