- Location
- Golden, CO
Look at you go!
What are you doing to your rig - the continuing saga
- Thread starter old_man
- Start date
trippled
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- colorado springs, co
Now would be a good time to replace the torque converter seal
Gunter
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Aurora, Colorado
i need some help here. i beat my deathwobble to death LOL but now at 75 mph i get a vibration that comes and goes for 15 to 20 seconds then comes back. thru 65 to70 no vibes at all. front end is awesome and zero issues there. reckon this is a driveline vibe issue? thanks all
- Location
- Golden, CO
Driveline vibes do not "come and go." They become obvious at some specific speed, and get worse the faster you go.
I think it might depend on the exact cause? Something like that could be a worn slip joint in a driveshaft plus and/or a twisted H in a double cardan joint... Essentially its always out but come and goes as the harmonics build to a certain level then decrease and come back...
Gunter if you are in the Springs still, I'd suggest taking your driveshafts down to Driveline Service on Sierra Madre and let them look at them. They are fast, reasonably priced and very, very good. Hal has more or less turned running the shop over to Charlie but I have not seen any difference in price or quality...
Yep pretty much what I ran and it worked great. I drug the lca mounts a few times on carnage, but otherwise wasn’t bad at all. Worked. Simple.
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4x4JeePmaNthINg
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Colorado
Pull the plate to find Factory plug just shinning, hilarious
trippled
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- colorado springs, co
Making some of that progress.
The front and back are plated on that knuckle but not the center ? The part on the upper bell outside facing the tires is a pretty important part to use plating to brace that upper knuckle . I never broke on non plated knuckles but it was always on my mind . I used the pre cut rydelfab plating you can see the part your missing based on the 3 pieces that common pre cut kits provide ...lol... it's only a quick piece to actually make and weighs nothing worth mentioning, but if your knuckle does crack it's pretty big pita on the trail vs making it good now . Otherwise it looks like it's coming along great and will hopefully see it on the trail this year .
time2getdirty
my cats breath smells
- Location
- Cheyenne, Wyoming
Build at full bump....
freerider15
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- FoCo, Crawlorado
Making some of that progress.
From experience...make sure that at an absolute minumum...you're tubes are welding to the housing. As well, get any plugs welds you can that aren't done or halfway done.
I'd also try and get some sort of truss structure in there, to help the above, and make mounting things easier.
Otherwise looking good. Any plans to tie the steering arm to the knuckle (e.g. bolt that goes in both?)
Not sure how true the general consensus is on most forums regarding the topic of welding the tubes , but it is the general idea that welding the tubes without having a full truss crests a weak point and makes the tubes prone to failing, so basically if you weld the tubes you fully truss the axle as well . Besides I know some disagree with needing a truss on a d60 saying that the axle tubng won't bend , but there are plenty of bent axle housings out there on rigs that are not jumped to prove otherwise. The thought is that 3+ inch axle tube meant for an hd truck won't bender under an xj , but those trucks were running 31s and live life pretty much on flat ground not twisted up on 40s with possibility of all vehicle weight transferred to one wheel and loading nearly the entire weight of the rig on one side of axle ...lol... this was not a design the manufacturer was engineering the housing for thus a truss is not really overkill .
freerider15
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- FoCo, Crawlorado
Not sure where you've seen that concensus. But as long as it's done correctly, there should be no weak point created. *If* the materials are different (e.g. have different time vs. temp) materials properties in regards to aging (e.g. heating), then as long as their done in a manner where both are cooled with appropriate time, there should be no issue of unwanted crystallization (e.g. second phase particle forming) that might warrant "weak" points.
It's not said to be an issue of the welds it's said to cause the axle tubes to crack . It's been brought up on pirate and other boards most of the times welding axle tubes cones up . It's not said that the welds are an issue it's said that the welds vs the plug welds cause the tubes to be stressed different and causes them to crack and if you weld tubes to truss As well... like I said I've not built a "plethora " of axles to determine if that is really a thing , but since I do know d60 tubes bend on trail rigs the truss should probably be on there anyway .
freerider15
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- FoCo, Crawlorado
Gotcha, it all turns to where you move the weak point.
Yes, something will eventually have to give. If you were going to rotate the tubes, the welds now prevent that. Get *enough* torque (which would be pretty hard to get), and you'll start cracking the housing.
Bending? Well instead of the tube bending in the housing, the housing might now crack.
It's much like putting chromos in an axle. Sure, you might have moved the weak point to the R&P, but the likelyhood of busting the R&P is pretty fukkin low (unless you have a massive amount of HP).
Even with big torque and hp you probably don't have the traction to cause anymore breakage than the point where traction fails. I think many of the hear set failures are from deflection and sudden shock loads...and poorly set up gears .
trippled
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- colorado springs, co
So, the tube is welded to the center section. I have an artec link tower for the upper link mount. I was planning on adding some sort of truss into it but I want to get the track bar mount on too then I will pull it out and do that. Wont be anything big but something to tie it all together.
I hadn't planned on doing anything more with the knuckles. I was asking a while back about them and didn't get a whole lot back. Yea they're just plated front and rear. Front has double shear mount for steering and a big gusset for the knuckle. I wanted to run hydro assist mounted to the tie rod so I was hoping that would keep the load off the high steer arm. Still think it needs to be tied together? Really I'd just like to get a year out of these until I can get some rieds or solid knuckles. Whatcha guys think?
I hadn't planned on doing anything more with the knuckles. I was asking a while back about them and didn't get a whole lot back. Yea they're just plated front and rear. Front has double shear mount for steering and a big gusset for the knuckle. I wanted to run hydro assist mounted to the tie rod so I was hoping that would keep the load off the high steer arm. Still think it needs to be tied together? Really I'd just like to get a year out of these until I can get some rieds or solid knuckles. Whatcha guys think?
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