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What are you doing to your rig - the continuing saga

Finishing the inner cage tie in to...everything... I'm getting ready to order some monstaliiner, but can't decide in a body color the interior floor is going to be black and most likely will do the exo in black monstaliiner, but the main color is the can't decide I am thinking a brighter green or doing a White to save time sin e the base color the already white and it would require less work, but I kind of don't want to devote the the time just do it white like stock... I'm leaning towards the green just for look at me attention white factor
 
Why not do some steelit. Two basic color options but you don’t have to grind off whatever you put on to do any welding. Bad ass stuff.
 
Because bedliner options are heavier duh



Because bed liner options offer ... fill qualities... where as paint only options don't off any ...fill quality... Since bed liner options offer fill quality they will eliminate the need of spot filling all the small dents and dimgs that paint will not without using a filler or heavy build primer pre prep before the paint .
 
Why not do some steelit. Two basic color options but you don’t have to grind off whatever you put on to do any welding. Bad ass stuff.

Unfamiliar with the product I will look into it . The main reason for the liner option is fill quality as I don't want to actually spend hours block sanding filler before paint .
 
Sweet got my mistake fixed free...I had ordered by mistake a HTP flex swan neck gun for a Lincoln welder instead of 210 handler the difference being only the bayonet connection into the gas block ( power pin) the hobart is 3/8 The Lincoln is the big plug like 1/2 or 5/8 , so since it was my mistake I just figured I'd order the correct bayonet to swap it over , well Usaweld sent the new part free of charge despite it being my ordering folly.
 
on another note, anyone see the Gale Banks vid on aftermarket diff covers and oil flow characteristics? makes me think keeping stock cover with the cheaper lower half protectors is a better way for a mostly DD Jeep. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9-yG3D3JBRs

Just buy something that was designed with the fluid dynamics in mind, like an ARB.

87-17-jeep-wrangler-YJ-TJ-JK-ARB-dana-30-differential-cover-red-005.jpg
 
on another note, anyone see the Gale Banks vid on aftermarket diff covers and oil flow characteristics? makes me think keeping stock cover with the cheaper lower half protectors is a better way for a mostly DD Jeep. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9-yG3D3JBRs


I think you're over thinking this . I ran my xj on road until 2014 after Building a trailer until then I daily drove it for almost a year from Bailey to Denver and to and from trail .My gear sets looks brand new as do the carrier bearings and I have a crane front cover and ballistic fab rear . I'd say keeping you diffs full not letting them get low from leaks or running excessive pinion angle which starves the pinion for oil will be more a factor than the diff cover design.
 
I think you're over thinking this . I ran my xj on road until 2014 after Building a trailer until then I daily drove it for almost a year from Bailey to Denver and to and from trail .My gear sets looks brand new as do the carrier bearings and I have a crane front cover and ballistic fab rear . I'd say keeping you diffs full not letting them get low from leaks or running excessive pinion angle which starves the pinion for oil will be more a factor than the diff cover design.

I kinda agree but I'm interested in what they find. They weren't skimping on the testing. I installed aot of the bigger diff covers but I'd like to see what they find on them. The videos with the clear covers showed some pretty significant difference in fluid flow. I need to see if they ever finished part 3 with their testing.
 
I kinda agree but I'm interested in what they find. They weren't skimping on the testing. I installed aot of the bigger diff covers but I'd like to see what they find on them. The videos with the clear covers showed some pretty significant difference in fluid flow. I need to see if they ever finished part 3 with their testing.

Yep!

It doesn't hurt to learn something new every now and then. At least if you aren't learning it the hard way.

What they pointed out about the higher fill levels and foaming is worth noting.

I want to see what they conclude in the end.
 
Yep!

It doesn't hurt to learn something new every now and then. At least if you aren't learning it the hard way.

What they pointed out about the higher fill levels and foaming is worth noting.

I want to see what they conclude in the end.


From drive shaft angle 101 if you over fill to accommodate. For a raised pinion angle to prevent foaming you can add about a cup of dexron II to help with oil surface tension to prevent foaming .
 
http://imgur.com/ctvQmrd

Most of the way there as far as the engine bay goes. I need to see about properly discharging the A/c system as far as pumping into some canister I assume. az has the pump. I already recharged it this summer replacing the evap, oh well.

Still need to:
disconnect the down pipe
Trany, tc linkage
Drive shaft
Ckps from the bell, just to be safe

I'm sure there's more, but I'll have to research what.
 
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Front and rear crank seals have been leaking for years and my radiator started leaking. Finally decided to fix the seals since had to take out the radiator anyways. While I was there figured I would change the timing chain and oil pump.
Went OK except I had to take the cross pipe off of the down pipe of the exhaust and all of the bolts broke! I need a torch!

Used an all metal radiator from Summit. Hopefully it will be good.
 
A big shout-out to Trail Jeeps in Golden!

My old tires were pretty much done. When I saw the owner of Trail Jeeps at the Toys for Tots event, I asked him if he sold take-offs for my 18" wheels. To keep life simple, he made me a SCREAMIN'! deal on tires and wheels.

These grew on me pretty fast:

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