What are you doing to your rig - the continuing saga

[in4aride]

All good. I'm going to take off Tuesday. Use the day to finish up the welds, pack, and prep for the trailer.

 

[in4aride]

Snagged a bottle last night. New bungs aren't in so just sleeved the old trackbar to get the length I needed. I'm within an inch of drag link length so that's good. But I'll need to really watch clearance on oil pan. It'll be close.
Winch showed up last night so hopefully get that tossed on today as well.
But first gotta hit discount and get the lady's new tires mounted up. Ugh.

 

[1-tonxj]

No shame in running fcaw when out of gas ...I keep a roll of nr211mp for that and windy days

 

[in4aride]

Well my luck struck again. Got the bottle replaced. Then ran out of wire! All I had was crappy spare Chicago electric junk. Luckily it was only a few welds. I'll grab more good stuff when I get back to do sisters bumper.

 

[notamos]

Finally got done w/ baseball season (coaching) and have time to work on my XJ. In the last week:

-Installed some 4" (200lb) PAC coils

-Removed the rear spring hangers (front), patched some small holes and then installed some Synergy leaf hanger brackets. These things are BEEF and will be welded in w/ my stiffeners. Biggest PITA of this project was removing the old hanger - drilling out all of the spot welds that hold it on. The new brackets bolt on w/ 10 bolts/side & are then welded to the subframe. Solid to say the least.

 

[Boostwerks.com]

:shhh:

Anyone interested in a complete turbo setup for their 4.0 Chero?

I've decided to pull it and go back to NA due to my health, bills and the fact that I have no time to mess with the little things that need dialing in (heat control).

I'll be pulling everything here soon. No idea on price yet btw.

B

 

[old_man]

:shhh:

Anyone interested in a complete turbo setup for their 4.0 Chero?

I've decided to pull it and go back to NA due to my health, bills and the fact that I have no time to mess with the little things that need dialing in (heat control).

I'll be pulling everything here soon. No idea on price yet btw.

B

I bid $20

 

[trippled]

$20.01! That sucks. It'll be so disappointing the first time you floor it.

 

[1-tonxj]

Getting ready to break da law...lol...going to be working on my rig regardless of fire ban restriction on welding ...reason being is I see them keeping this ban on until fall winter as I think they forgot anytime you burn the risk of a fire exists and if you are not properly prepared you will have a fire , but you can't ban all activity forever as a safety precaution .

 

[in4aride]

Aye aye aye.
Front bumper build for sister. Awaiting other parts to do some other stuff.

Got a new belly skid for me. Braces rear towers.
New trans lines, radiator, hoses, fans, water pump, tstat, power steering lines, psc box and hydro are mostly installed.
Tinted dodge, new mirrors and windshield (hail). And replacing internal visors.

I'm beat.

 

[freerider15]

Took the buggy for a spin around the block this evening, mainly trying to get my trans to heat up so I can find where specifically in/around the pan it's leaking.

RCV's in and done, as well as the rear Yukons.

Can't get my rear diff to completely seal for the life of me...it's driving me up a wall.

I went ahead and flipped the sensor for my fan controller to the other side of the radiator (it had been on the wrong side) as well as added a block off piece. Rig stays 1 tick under 210 now at idle, so that seemed to work well.

Now to just try and address this tranny leak...then I can focus on knocking out the rest of the hood and getting the door panels done. 15 days until I have to be done, though I'd like to have the panels and hood done in enough time to give them a few days to cure.

 

[eflores]

:shhh:

Anyone interested in a complete turbo setup for their 4.0 Chero?

I've decided to pull it and go back to NA due to my health, bills and the fact that I have no time to mess with the little things that need dialing in (heat control).

I'll be pulling everything here soon. No idea on price yet btw.

B

put me in line. ive been thinking of doing this to jenny for a while

 

[trippled]

Took the buggy for a spin around the block this evening, mainly trying to get my trans to heat up so I can find where specifically in/around the pan it's leaking.

RCV's in and done, as well as the rear Yukons.

Can't get my rear diff to completely seal for the life of me...it's driving me up a wall.

I went ahead and flipped the sensor for my fan controller to the other side of the radiator (it had been on the wrong side) as well as added a block off piece. Rig stays 1 tick under 210 now at idle, so that seemed to work well.

Now to just try and address this tranny leak...then I can focus on knocking out the rest of the hood and getting the door panels done. 15 days until I have to be done, though I'd like to have the panels and hood done in enough time to give them a few days to cure.

Where's the diff leaking from?

 

[old_man]

I fought a leak on my D44 for years. I finally got a lublocker gasket and never a drop since then.

 

[freerider15]

Where's the diff leaking from?

Hard to say exactly, the bottom :laugh:

It think it's leaking from shaved area.

I fought a leak on my D44 for years. I finally got a lublocker gasket and never a drop since then.

Mine's a bit different. Mind had a heavy shave done. Unfortunately, I didn't get the bottom plate 100% flush with the face of the housing (very close, but not perfect). So, I think the leak is due in part to that.

It did seal for the longest time, but has been an issue since late last year.

If I had access to one and a bit of free time, I'd throw the housing and the cover up on an end mill and mill both surfaces 100% flat and even.

A lubelocker might be nice for my D60, but that one doesn't really have any issue sealing.

I *think* I might have found my culprit on the tranny pan. I drilled and tapped an additional hole near the driver's side rear corner on the pan/housing to help seal. Well, the drill hole went into the actual fluid area (nothing near there), so it's another "hole" that can seep. I used thread sealant on the bolt when I screwed it in, but that may not have been enough. I pulled the plug to let the pan drain last night. Hopefully some RTV smeared on the bolt with a dab in the hole should take care of it. It if does, that saves me a day of work from removing the UHMW boat sides enough to get to the cross member bolt heads, swinging the cross member down, removing the pan, etc. etc.

 

[Boostwerks.com]

Got all the turbo stuff pulled this past weekend. Then ported the head while I was at it and put on a shiny new Banks revolver header. Next, I'll be fabbing up a 2.5" down pipe and keeping the back half of my 3" exhaust. I'm hoping it's not going to be insanely loud, so we'll see.

The port match was done using a late model metal gasket for accuracy. I then blended the top and bottom exhaust ports to better merge to the header.

Before:



Almost there:



Complete:



Lightly wrapped up the header with some DEI titanium wrap I had left over from when I built the turbo stuff...





downpipe parts...





I also have a sneak peak at the up and coming hidden winch mount...

 

[in4aride]

Jesus. That's quite a bit of difference.

 

[Boostwerks.com]

Jesus. That's quite a bit of difference.

Yeah no kidding. It's a clearwater casting with the 00+ port shape, which is obviously horrible. The injector area is severely shrouded, and the exhaust ports neck down like crazy towards the manifold surface. Took about 5hrs of die grinding. It's not like I have a big stroke motor, but hopefully it frees up some power. party1:

 

[time2getdirty]

Does anyone have any experience with dynamat, second skin, or any other sound deadening? This taco is loud....

 

[xj-grin]

it works, and is a pain in the ass to install -- did it to my 1st XJ. My Bro-in-law's taco sounds like driving around in a resonating chamber, and makes the stereo sound like ass. I usually just roll the windows down and enjoy the wind.