What are you doing to your rig - the continuing saga

[Joe94xj]

Where is the leak coming from?

 

[Frank Z]

Well it's the adapter/clocking ring itself.

I've been talking to my friend David out in Falcon and he's got a similar issue with his TJ. His is as a result of a spare hole in the Advanced Adapters tailcone adapter. His can be plug/tig welded.

I started re-hashing the process I went through getting my ring built. My counter sinks were not as close to perfect as they need to be.

I believe that the poor counter sinks are allowing ATF to seep under and around the the counter sunk bolt heads.

Appplying even the highest quality RTV to the counter sunk holes may or may not work. More than likely it won't last due to the high detergent content of ATF3.

So tomorrow I'll pick up some 3/8" plate while I'm at Glaser Steel and start fresh.

 

[kastein]

I'm a little confused. This goes between the transmission and transfer case, right? On my jeep that isn't even RTV'd, and there is a drainage/ventilation opening in the bottom edge of the housing because the output of the transmission and the input of the transfer case each have their own seal. Is the output of the transmission on yours different due to the GM trans/engine swap or something?

 

[Frank Z]

Keep in mind that I've got an NP231J mated to a 4l65E....
An apple grafted to an orange so to speak.

 

[Joe94xj]

You are running the Chevy trans correct? If so a friend of mine was fighting a tcase leak on his avalanche. Kept replacing seals and what not. Finally we found a small crack in his tail housing of the trans causing the leak. Might want to give it a good look over. Also I am off all next week so if you need a hand with the case just give me a call.

 

[Frank Z]

The leak is pretty obvious and I have looked at the tailcone for cracks on many occasions. A crack is easy to fix.

The gasket surface in the tailcone is only about 1/4" wide and the countersunk holes are about 3/4" diameter. So the installed height of the countersunk bolts is critical.

To high and there's a gap adjacent to the head.

Too low and and there's insufficent clamping pressure on gasket on top of the counter sunk bolt head.

 

[kastein]

I figured it was something like that. Good luck! Sounds like a pain in the ass...

 

[Frank Z]

Actually it's not to bad. I don't have the OEM bellcrank to deal with, so the corresponding bracket on the tranny isn't there anymore either. Just that alone makes getting to the bolts much easier, and I do not have to drop the L/A crossmember to remove the t-case.

 

[SolarBell]

Took my rig out today and beat on it for a while. Didn't break anything but I certainly have some work to do tracking down some squeaks and clunks.

 

[kastein]

Actually it's not to bad. I don't have the OEM bellcrank to deal with, so the corresponding bracket on the tranny isn't there anymore either. Just that alone makes getting to the bolts much easier, and I do not have to drop the L/A crossmember to remove the t-case.

that bracket is among my least favorite features of the XJ/MJ. Awesome that you don't have to deal with it - I don't either, but only because I was too annoyed with that bellcrank to install it when I did the 4wd swap, so I have to crawl under the jeep and shift the case with my thumb. How is the clocking on the case and distance to the crossmember? I know on my 5spd MJ with stock drivetrain I can get to most of the tcase bolts without even removing the crossmember, which is quite nice.

 

[Frank Z]

The V8/4L60E is shorter so it's about 2-3" farther forward.

 

[O-Gauge Steamer]

Discovered, on Saturday, that I need a tad more bump stop up front. I'm just hitting the flares. Who has a good idea? I'm thinking longer bolt and a spacer under the existing stop. Good/bad idea? I am open to suggestions.

Plus, I almost can't believe just how noisy spherical rods ends make the front end when going over washboards. Holy moley Mabel, it rattled my ears off...

 

[puttzer]

Discovered, on Saturday, that I need a tad more bump stop up front. I'm just hitting the flares. Who has a good idea? I'm thinking longer bolt and a spacer under the existing stop. Good/bad idea? I am open to suggestions.

Plus, I almost can't believe just how noisy spherical rods ends make the front end when going over washboards. Holy moley Mabel, it rattled my ears off...

Daystar makes poly extended bump stops that replace stock ones.

 

[jdbwrx]

Discovered, on Saturday, that I need a tad more bump stop up front. I'm just hitting the flares. Who has a good idea? I'm thinking longer bolt and a spacer under the existing stop. Good/bad idea? I am open to suggestions.

Plus, I almost can't believe just how noisy spherical rods ends make the front end when going over washboards. Holy moley Mabel, it rattled my ears off...

Hockey puck(s) on the spring perch (axle side). Either JB weld them in, or drill a hole through them and through the center of the perch to bolt them in.

 

[SolarBell]

Hockey puck(s) on the spring perch (axle side). Either JB weld them in, or drill a hole through them and through the center of the perch to bolt them in.

I have 3" of bump stop that way. Drilled the hockey pucks to 3/8" and then drilled and tapped the perches for a 3/8" bolt. Cost me all of $20.

 

[Hypoid]

I used plain old silicone caulk to glue my hockey pucks to the spring perch. So far, so good.

 

[old_man]

I used plain old silicone caulk to glue my hockey pucks to the spring perch. So far, so good.

Gorilla Snot works better. aka weatherstrip adhesive.

 

[DutchVDub]

Bump stops? I just trim more of the fender out of the way. The axle witll eventually hit the stock bump stop or the coil spring will turn solid, either way I'm fine with it.

 

[kastein]

^^^ I'm with that guy... stock bumpstops and bash things with hammers, angle grinders, and sawzalls until it clears. It's working for me on 33s right now and I'm hoping to keep that the same on 35s :eyes:

 

[Joe94xj]

Finally installed some shocks that actually work today. Major ride improvement.