What are you doing to your rig - the continuing saga

xj-grin said:
hydro assist is fairly simply, requires a little welding, tapping your box (:shhh:), and really isn't model specific. You just want to make sure you have a ram with enough throw for your axle, so calculate that and go to town. I don't think it will do anything much to cure your DW problem, however, so I'd keep digging and solve that one first. I'll be at the house this afternoon if you want to come by (digging a trench for new electric service)... I'd be happy to crawl under it and see if we can't find your clunk, since that is almost certainly the source of your wobble!
Click to expand...
thanks.
ya, this upgrade wont happen until DW is gone.

im not driving it anywhere past a mile from my house.
Jeff is going to see if Led will come take a look for me.
i dont even want to drive it to see if death wobble is gone! :twak:

i took it for the test drive and the pulling back and forth was almost as scary as death wobble.

you are more than welcome to stop by but the jeep cant go that far right now...
 
im gonna go dick with those bolts holding my rear bumper on, and see if i can get some nutstrips in there to put my hitch on. maybe a t-case drop for shits and giggles
 
If you already have a return to center problem than you could very well have a caster issue. You should be running 5-6deg of caster. I know there is always a compromise with pinion angle but with disconnect hubs your front u-joint isn't always spinning anyways. I'll prematurely wear out a 20$ fully warrantied u-joint any day before I sacrifice steering with incorrect caster angles.


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That was a significant clunk, and particularly since you weren't even cycling the steering, just pushing on the bumper... I think you found the source of your DW.
 
Well i have to replace my wheel cylinders, blead my breaks, patch a hole in the floor, find some marker and blinker lights for the front end, and a new drag link. It will be running down the road next weekend :D
 
xj-grin said:
That was a significant clunk, and particularly since you weren't even cycling the steering, just pushing on the bumper... I think you found the source of your DW.
Click to expand...

............... :doh:
 
Put some new shocks on the front. Question though, I measured the exposed part of the shaft and it is greater than the distance between bumpstops. This means that the shock will bottom out before the bumpstop right? Its a 1/2" difference.

IMG_20111022_164022.jpg
 
No if the bumpstop distance is shorter, it will hit first. So your shocks will have 1/2" of travel before bottoming out.
 
JDobrich said:
The bumpstop distance is 5", the shock length is 4 1/2". I'm screwed. :banghead:Hockey puck bumpstop time or bigger lift??? MORE LIFT WINS!!!! Now I just need to break it to the wife :doh:
Click to expand...
You don't have to tell her about the hockey pucks. :firedevil

Seriously though, unless you married a gearhead, or a mechanic's daughter, it doesn't matter how well you explain what you want to do. All she'll hear is: Blah, blah, blah, more money, blah, blah, blah, my toy, blah, blah, blah, needs more money, blah, blah, blah. OK honey?
 
umm more lift wont fix your shock problem? it will increase the distance between your bumpstops and your shock bottom equally. so you will still have the same problem, but with more height
 
stroked88 said:
umm more lift wont fix your shock problem? it will increase the distance between your bumpstops and your shock bottom equally. so you will still have the same problem, but with more height
Click to expand...

Exactly, just lengthen your bumpstops a bit. Keep in mind too that your real leafsprung suspension is by design going to have more down travel than up travel. Limiting front up travel to a degree isn't necessarily going to impede your performance and will also help keep your front and rear suspensions in unison.


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SYE...... Yep.
 
wow. i experienced death wobble for the first time today. I hit a cattle guard going about 35 and it just went nuts! never knew it was that bad, atleast i wasnt going fast. seems to be the TRE on the track bar.
 
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