Weekend is over...what did you get done?

I hate it.
HA! Stock D30/35. I was hoping for an 8.25 in that year. Rough Country lift and 31's. The body's straight, but 3 doors and a fender are different color because he said there were some dents and he didn't want to use a bunch of bondo. He built it to be a DD, hence the stock axles. All it needs is some gauges, a rear bumper and a driver's seatbelt.

phone pics!

jeep1j.jpg

jeep2m.jpg

jeepmotor.jpg
 
Last edited:
Top of the list is working gauges followed by rattle canning the doors and fender. Then hunting for a D44. Oh, and the seatbelt. Might need that...
 
Its ok... I'd clean up the wiring and plug wires etc... but Im picky about how things look. Also, IMO, why would anyone take out a fuel injected 6 cyl and put in a carb V8 when the 6 cyl makes almost as much power? I'd at least throw some TBI on it. As for the gauges, you need to hook up all the stock jeep sensors and then that will take car of everything other than the tach... for that you will need to send the cluster to red line gauge works. They can add a driver to the back of the cluster to get it to work. I used them on the LS2 XJ.
 
Also, IMO, why would anyone take out a fuel injected 6 cyl and put in a carb V8 when the 6 cyl makes almost as much power? I'd at least throw some TBI on it.

This! They did a decent job, i'll give them that but seriously, scrap that stupid carb!
 
I actually prefer the carb. I don't like all the electrical stuff that can and will go wrong. I'm old school. I'll go with mechanical gauges as well.
Last time I checked the 4.0 made around 188 HP. This one has about 275.
And since I don't have a welder or any welding skills to move shock mounts etc, I need a diff that is a direct bolt in. If I could find an 8.8 already fitted for an XJ I would go that route.
 
Last edited:
I understand the idea of simplicity... my first jeep was carb and that only lasted a few months. I go tired of it dying on every hill up or down. If you were going up you better not let out of it bc it would flood out and if you were going down you might as well cut it off and coast because it was going to starve for fuel and die anyway lol, and it was an off road specific carb! Oh well... if its a street queen I dont see you having any problems with it. But as far as fuel injection, I'd say 90% of the time, if you spend the money and do a fuel injected engine swap, you wont have any more problems than you would with anything else, especially with new school OBD2 stuff. They will usually pretty much diagnose themselves and give you a code if there is ever an issue. Not trying to convince you, haha, just saying that a V8 swapped fuel injected Jeep can be a very reliable and doable thing. I had way more frustrations with that damn carb than I have ever had with any fuel injection system.
 
Agreed on fuel injection... I have seen a friend of mine with a carb lose power on a hill climb and have to retry it more times than I have gotten stuck on the same climb. I made it in one try last time I wheeled there, point and shoot basically.

Only time FI has ever killed me was when the wires for my rear o2 sensor wrapped around my driveshaft and shorted out. My fault for not securing them well enough.
 
Do you guys think that a cracked exhaust manifold would cause very poor mileage and an occasional stumble after start up?

This is what it does: (98 4.0)

About once ever 3-4 times we get in the Jeep to drive it...
It starts up smooth as a button and idles perfectly. I drive about 1/10th of a mile to the end of my drive way (Been running for 30 seconds) and then it starts skipping hard, stumbling and almost stalling for 5-10 seconds, I can let of the gas and let it coast for a few feet then it smooths out and all is well. After that I can drive it as long as I want with no issues.


It has a new fuel pump and cps as of recently. The exhaust manifold is cracked and the rest of the exhaust is in pitiful shape. It needs to be replaced either way...

Do you think fixing the manifold, repairing the exhaust and replaceing the O2 sensors would help this any?
 
I could see it as a possibility, given that the system is seeing more than normal amounts of o2 in the exhaust, and dumping more fuel in to compensate. I'd also look at the coolant temp sensor as well. Mine would do similar things if I didn't let it run for 1-2 minutes on a cold start. If I just jumped in and took off, it would miss and chug and be not happy all for the first 1-2 minutes of driving.

At the time I had access to a scanner that did a handful of digital read outs, one of which being the CTS reading. One morning I hooked it up and watch it as I cranked it. Sure enough, the CTS was saying it was 70*, when in reality it was more like 35* outside and the Jeep had been sitting all night.
 
Back
Top